New to the boards with newbie Q's..
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Post by kriss on Mar 17, 2014 19:51:59 GMT -5
Hello! I have an 02 montero sport.. not much of a hardcore off roader but do venture out every so often... the search function didn't answer my questions so hopefully the vets can help..
Basically, I want a lift. I have stock wheel sizes and want to go up to 31x15.5x15 since that's what the rim size is now.. I hear that you dont need a lift for that with no rub but is questionable. Any tips? Will I need go upgrade to 16 rims or are 15 great too.
Also, if a minor lift is needed, can someine point me in the right direction? I won't need a full heavy suspention lift but maybe a good bidy lift. Will I have to lift front and back? So on. Any good full body kits I can buy off line?
Thx,
KriS
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Post by mudrunner on Mar 23, 2014 14:04:24 GMT -5
Iirc you can fit 33s with no lift on these rigs. I am sure if I am wrong someone will correct me. As far as a lift goes Old Man Emu, and IronMan4x4 have something. Although seeing that you have an 02 I would make a phone call if you are looking for something since the 01s and up have the funky rear suspension.
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Post by bdmontero on Mar 23, 2014 15:43:11 GMT -5
No you cannot fit 33's safely without a lift. They would rub like a SOB. Even with a 3 inch lift 33's rubbed like crazy on mine.
Sent from my SM-N900V using proboards
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Post by ES_97Sport on Apr 9, 2014 15:05:18 GMT -5
Hello! I have an 02 montero sport.. not much of a hardcore off roader but do venture out every so often... the search function didn't answer my questions so hopefully the vets can help.. Basically, I want a lift. I have stock wheel sizes and want to go up to 31x15.5x15 since that's what the rim size is now.. I hear that you dont need a lift for that with no rub but is questionable. Any tips? Will I need go upgrade to 16 rims or are 15 great too. Also, if a minor lift is needed, can someine point me in the right direction? I won't need a full heavy suspention lift but maybe a good bidy lift. Will I have to lift front and back? So on. Any good full body kits I can buy off line? Thx, KriS I presume you meant 31x10.5x15.  Nope. No 33"s. BD is right. 31x10.5x15s will absolutely fit on the '97-99 with no lift. Same for the '00-05. 32"s will generally fit, but it depends on the tire and rim, so your mileage may vary. Come combination work - some don't. 15" rims are fine, but if you're going to run a 10.5" wide tire, you want an 8-8.5" wide rim. Don't try to put a 10" tire on a 6" rim. My personal opinion is if you're going to take it off-road a bit, then stick with the 15" rim and don't go any wider than 8.5" wide. You get a little more protection of the rim lip with a 15" vs. a 16". Go NO BIGGER than 16"! The front is torsion bar. There's lots of posts with instructions on how to tighten up the torsion bars to raise the front. You'll have to search for info on the coil springs. Try here and on 4x4 Wire. OME and Iron Man make package kits that aren't too expensive. There aren't any Sport specific body lifts available that I'm aware of. Lots of people have put together a 'kit' from Toy and other brand body lifts, though, and they've worked fine. Less than $100 generally. 1-1.5" doesn't require to much engineering. More than that and unless you're seriously mechanically inclined, you probably want a shop to do it. I don't like body lifts. It's not going to do anything for you off road other than let you run slightly larger tires. On the Sports a suspension lift is more affective. Edward |
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Post by davidtemple on May 3, 2014 17:11:36 GMT -5
I did a old man EMU, kit i found unused on ebay years ago for cheap $175 shipped.... and now have 31" tires on my 20 rims...
badass!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1
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Post by ES_97Sport on May 6, 2014 12:55:25 GMT -5
I did a old man EMU, kit i found unused on ebay years ago for cheap $175 shipped.... and now have 31" tires on my 20 rims... badass!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1 OP: I presume you meant 20" rims? Bad - VERY bad - idea on anything that leaves pavement. Edward |
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Post by monty98 on May 18, 2014 1:16:45 GMT -5
I can attest to trying to fit 33s, 31s fit very nicely, but soon became too small for my tastes. So began my custom rear lift with adding more leafs and recurving the leafs, and cranking the torsion bars, added my 33s, still fit with just minimal lift, but had rub issues with the front fenders so trimmed the front plastic bumper/fender, and added a 1.5" body lift.
With the body lift I had A LOT more clearance and did not have to adjust or extend anything, although anymore is just pointless since now extension of lines becomes an issue. Now 35s are starting to look a lot more appealing to me since I have so much space. Anyone know if they make 35x10.5 tires these days? lol
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Post by bdmontero on May 18, 2014 18:13:22 GMT -5
35 inch tires will require deeper gearing. Or you will roast your tranny.
Sent from my SM-N900V using proboards
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Post by monty98 on May 18, 2014 23:28:17 GMT -5
35 inch tires will require deeper gearing. Or you will roast your tranny. Sent from my SM-N900V using proboards Oh yes, you are quite right bd, I will be looking at the 4.9 gearing since I'm currently sitting on 4.636s right now. Acceleration is still really good with my 5speed though, can still skip through and over gears as I please with no complaints from the drivetrain. |
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Post by ES_97Sport on May 19, 2014 15:04:39 GMT -5
35 inch tires will require deeper gearing. Or you will roast your tranny. Sent from my SM-N900V using proboards Oh yes, you are quite right bd, I will be looking at the 4.9 gearing since I'm currently sitting on 4.636s right now. Acceleration is still really good with my 5speed though, can still skip through and over gears as I please with no complaints from the drivetrain. BD, Monty98 runs a 5-speed manual transmission - at least the V5MT1-6. (which is not the same transmission as the one in the big pre-'97 Monteros, BTW) So, in his case it'd be the clutch. However, I never did have problems with the clutch when I was running 33"s before the SAS. Monty98, look for the 5.13s first and use those if you can. 35"s are a BIG jump, not just in diameter but in weight. The 5.13s will take more stress off your drive train than the 4.90s will and while you may not notice it, going to 35"s will add a lot of stress to the drive train. You ever get your t-case re-geared? Interco may still do a 35x10.5 but they're going to be REALLY heavy which isn't going to do anything for driveability on pavement. Edward |
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Post by bdmontero on May 19, 2014 16:10:17 GMT -5
Are you asking 98 if he got his tcase geared? I only run 265/75/16. So I'm not worried too much;D
Sent from my SM-N900V using proboards
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Post by ES_97Sport on May 20, 2014 14:15:12 GMT -5
Are you asking 98 if he got his tcase geared? I only run 265/75/16. So I'm not worried too much;D .... Yep. I thought we'd talked about him re-gearing the t-case but I don't remember it he ever did. Thought this'd be interesting (lower numbers are better) ... Stock M/T vehicle @2000 RPM: Transmission 1st gear - 3.918 T-case gears - 1.92 Axle gears - 4.63 Stock -- Tire diameter - 265/70R15 Crawl speed ft/min: 445 Tire diameter - 31x10.5x15 Crawl speed ft/min: 460 Tire diameter - 33x12.5x15 Crawl speed ft/min: 490 Tire diameter - 35x12.5x15 Crawl speed ft/min: 517 Stock w/5.13 axle gears -- Tire diameter - 265/70R15 Crawl speed ft/min: 401 Tire diameter - 31x10.5x15 Crawl speed ft/min: 415 Tire diameter - 33x12.5x15 Crawl speed ft/min: 442 Tire diameter - 35x12.5x15 Crawl speed ft/min: 466 Stock w/2.85 t-case gears -- Tire diameter - 265/70R15 Crawl speed ft/min: 230 Tire diameter - 31x10.5x15 Crawl speed ft/min: 309 Tire diameter - 33x12.5x15 Crawl speed ft/min: 330 Tire diameter - 35x12.5x15 Crawl speed ft/min: 348 Stock w/2.85 t-case gears and 5.13 axle gears -- Tire diameter - 265/70R15 Crawl speed ft/min: 270 Tire diameter - 31x10.5x15 Crawl speed ft/min: 280 Tire diameter - 33x12.5x15 Crawl speed ft/min: 298 Tire diameter - 35x12.5x15 Crawl speed ft/min: 314 My big Sport w/5.38 axle gears, 4:1 t-case and 2.72:1 doubler -- Tire diameter - 35x12.5x15 Crawl speed ft/min: 79 Just a tad under 16 inches per second. So, it takes almost 7 seconds for the tire to make one complete revolution. At 1000 RPM it takes almost 14 seconds. The lower those numbers go the slower you go and the less likelihood you have of breaking something or ending up on your roof because you're forced to use the 'velocity method' all the time to get over stuff. I can't imagine running 35"s on the stock gearing. Running 33"s was bad enough.  Edward |
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Post by monty98 on May 20, 2014 15:26:41 GMT -5
Are you asking 98 if he got his tcase geared? I only run 265/75/16. So I'm not worried too much;D .... Yep. I thought we'd talked about him re-gearing the t-case but I don't remember it he ever did. ....[edited]... The lower those numbers go the slower you go and the less likelihood you have of breaking something or ending up on your roof because you're forced to use the 'velocity method' all the time to get over stuff. I can't imagine running 35"s on the stock gearing. Running 33"s was bad enough. Edward No regearing anywhere quite yet guys. Although, my crawl through the mountains was really good last year, I could definitely dig some lower gearing so I can keep the clutch engaged more often, spent a lot of time feathering the clutch going over some of the rocks and reversing. Yea the 33s are a stress already, I can tell especially on the clutch, wish I could up the axle ratios at least. I was looking to gain some more ground clearance, used my front skid plate quite a bit last year, saved my a** quite a bit! Also I was researching 35x12.5x15s versus the 10.5, time to get some more rim protection. Jeff |
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Post by ES_97Sport on May 23, 2014 15:11:32 GMT -5
... No regearing anywhere quite yet guys. ... I was looking to gain some more ground clearance, used my front skid plate quite a bit last year, saved my a** quite a bit! Also I was researching 35x12.5x15s versus the 10.5, time to get some more rim protection. Jeff You do realize you're doing this backwards, right? If you had the gearing, you'd realize you didn't need as much ground clearance. You're problem isn't ground clearance, its that you have to do 70 Mph over everything. I've already been down this road. I even did my SAS BEFORE I changed gearing in my t-case from stock. What I learned from that is I need about 1/3 less clearance than I thought I needed - because I'm not bouncing all over the place. I ALSO get away with less articulation and a stiffer suspension (good for the road) now that I actually have real gearing. I might also point out that you are going to bust the crap out of your Sport if you don't slow it down! You're putting a LOT more wear and tear on it than you would be if you had decent gearing. That said, you might want to start checking your body mounts for cracks, 'cause those'll be the first major things to go. Good idea. May not handle quite as good on the highway but nice bulgy sidewalls will definitely keep your rims happy. Edward |
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Post by monty98 on May 27, 2014 3:15:34 GMT -5
... No regearing anywhere quite yet guys. ... I was looking to gain some more ground clearance, used my front skid plate quite a bit last year, saved my a** quite a bit! Also I was researching 35x12.5x15s versus the 10.5, time to get some more rim protection. Jeff You do realize you're doing this backwards, right? If you had the gearing, you'd realize you didn't need as much ground clearance. You're problem isn't ground clearance, its that you have to do 70 Mph over everything. I've already been down this road. I even did my SAS BEFORE I changed gearing in my t-case from stock. What I learned from that is I need about 1/3 less clearance than I thought I needed - because I'm not bouncing all over the place. I ALSO get away with less articulation and a stiffer suspension (good for the road) now that I actually have real gearing. I might also point out that you are going to bust the crap out of your Sport if you don't slow it down! You're putting a LOT more wear and tear on it than you would be if you had decent gearing. That said, you might want to start checking your body mounts for cracks, 'cause those'll be the first major things to go. Good idea. May not handle quite as good on the highway but nice bulgy sidewalls will definitely keep your rims happy. Edward Yes, I know, just dreaming big here. I had a pretty decent crawl rate going, it was nothing that required any speed at all actually when I dinged my skid plate. I just took the wrong line down the extremely rocky hill. I forget what it was called exactly, but it was in the Roosevelt national forest. Forest service road 148/9? just outside Estes National Park it is just northwest/west of the Coulson Gulch hiking trail.  The path off to the left in the photo was a bit more level (picture is VERY deceiving, this was quite the steep hill) but had too many rocks standing up, so started down it, then high-centered on a rock right away, backed out and up and took the slightly more dangerous path on the right in the photo which tilted the rig towards certain death (it seemed that way at the time at least! haha) Now after all that and hewing other off-camber stories, I know I was well within the zone of safety!   |
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