190,000 miles what should be insptected and replaced?

[45calmike]

I have 190,000 miles on my 2001 Montero Sport. During my last oil change, I decided to take a closer look underneath and greased up where ever I found nipple fittings. I noticed that my ball joints (?) appear to be worn- the rubber is torn and the grease just spilled out. Only the front shocks were changed under warranty about 6 years ago. At this mileage, what suspension/ undercarriage components should I check and possibly replace? Thanks in advance for your input.

[youngblood]

I thought I would give you my thought on this seeing how I have a 01 MS with 156k on it, I took it in for an alignment and shop said it would need front wheel bearings and lower ball joints before performing the service so I had this done. My next front end items will be to check and replace as needed are the idler arm,inner/outter tie rods both sides, pitman arm, upper ball joints and sway bar kit.  I did a cost estimate on these repairs at around 550-650. I noticed a few of the rubber bushings need replacing also. Don't know if this helps but that's where I am at with mine.

[ES_97Sport]

Jun 11, 2014 18:53:09 GMT -5 45calmike said:

I have 190,000 miles on my 2001 Montero Sport. During my last oil change, I decided to take a closer look underneath and greased up where ever I found nipple fittings. I noticed that my ball joints (?) appear to be worn- the rubber is torn and the grease just spilled out. Only the front shocks were changed under warranty about 6 years ago. At this mileage, what suspension/ undercarriage components should I check and possibly replace? Thanks in advance for your input.

190K?

Start with everything rubber under the vehicle. Boots, bushings, mounts, etc. If its cracked, worn, split - it needs to be replaced. Pay especial attention to the CV boots, the rubber boots on the steering components, the sway bar, spring and control arm bushings. The last three are things everyone overlooks and then can't figure out why they have weird handling and vibrations.

Look for oil soaked motor mounts and transmissions mount. The torque roll stop on the t-case should be checked, too, to make sure it's still in one piece, and actually still there. Do not forget to check the transfer case shifter boot - after this many miles it wouldn't surprise me that its cracked and that can be very bad and cause very expensive repairs if its left like that.

The rear axle should be fine. Steering components would be next on my list of stuff to check/replace. Hubs should be disassembled and bearings checked and then everything re-greased.

Change the gear lube on everything if it hasn't been. Full synthetic 85-95 for the differentials and t-case.

Grease everything with a grease zerk - as well as the hubs and bearings - with a full synthetic high-pressure molly bearing grease like Valvoline.

Don't cheap out on lubricants. Full synthetic anything costs more than it's counterparts, but it pays for itself in the long run. Especially on our vehicles. Part are not cheap so you want them to last as long as possible.

Edward

[45calmike]

Thanks, all. That gives me a good idea of what I need to plan and save for.

[bdmontero]

Don't you have to put GL4 lube in our tcases and diffs?

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