Post by ES_97Sport on Sept 5, 2014 16:49:12 GMT -5
I keep getting asked and it keeps coming up, so ...
Quality Power
I run a 175 amp alternator from these guys. Had it for a bit over two years now and haven't had so much as a hiccup.
The guys are Quality Power are very helpful - well, for what help you need for an alternator
- and responsive. They don't list the Montero Sport, but the Monteros use the same alternator. You just have to have your years correct. I shot them an email with the engine year and vehicle and they told me which one to order. Mine was physically identical to the original Mitsu alternator.
They have lots of options, but in reality there are only, like, three or four. The 3.5L and 3.0L alternator is the same for our Sports. I have one standard + my HO alternator and they swap between my 1997 Sport 3.0L and 2002 Sport 3.5L.
The alternator ships with a 6 grove pulley. Mitsubishi is 5 groove. You can use the 6 groove with our belts. I've not had any problems and I've been using their pulley for more than a year now.
HOWEVER, I STRONGLY recommend doing a 'finish alignment' of the pulley with the belt and your other pulleys. I've gone through half a dozen alternators and each aligns slightly differently with the other pulleys. If the pulleys aren't aligned with each other, it will cause accelerated belt wear. It will also be putting side force against the bearings which is not something you want to happen.
To align the pulleys, install the alternator with the belt snugged up and then make sure the pulleys line up with each other. If they do out of the box, you're good. If they don't, then you need to pull the pulley off the alternator and install a different shim washer. I have several I've accumulated over the years, so it was just a matter of popping the pulley nut with an impact gun, taking the washer out, reinstalling the pulley and putting it back on the vehicle. The shim washers are easy to get and cost just a few dimes - you can get them from any shop that rebuilds alternators.
Most of mine have had to have the pulley adjusted out (towards the front of the vehicle) which only requires a shim washer. Two have had to go the other way, and to get the pulleys to align required taking enough shim out that the pulley contacted the snout of the alternator. The only way to handle this is to clearance the pulley - which requires a machine shop with a lathe. Or VERY careful grinding or filing of the snout of the alternator casing.
Also, since the pulley Quality Power ships is smaller in diameter than the factory pulley. Their alternators require a different belt. If I remember right I got the one that was a 1.5" shorter than stock. I think it was just the next size down. I'd start with getting the next size smaller and work from there.
Understand that if you're going with a high output alternator and you're actually going to be pulling 125-150+ amps, that you can NOT just install this with the stock wiring. You'll need to build and install auxiliary cables from the alternator to the battery. 4GA is probably sufficient if you're not pulling more than 125-135 amps continuous. Otherwise, you'll need to drop a size or two. The factory cables are what looks like 8GA but I think they say they're 4GA. Doesn't look like my 4GA, that's for sure.
I would also suggest a big slow blow fuse on the positive side for safety reasons. I have a 150 amp fuse installed, which is about 15-20 amps over what I expect to draw at peak and use a 'slow-blow' fuse so that a random spike over 150 won't take out the fuse for no reason.
CE Auto Electric Battery Cable
McMaster-Carr Wire and Cable Protection
Amazon:
Fastronix Military Spec Battery Connectors - 1 positive, 1 negative
TEMCo Hydraulic Cable Lug Crimper TH0005 - 11 US TON 6 AWG to 600 MCM (don't get the smaller 10T yellow one - probably won't last to get the job finished)
Littelfuse 298900 Automotive Single Terminal Fuse Holder
Littelfuse 0MEG150.XP MEGA BP Slo-Blo Automotive Bolt-Down Fuse
Ancor Heavy Duty Lugs - 4 Gauge Wire (tinned - don't use bare copper lugs)
Ancor 306124 Marine Grade Electrical Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink Tubing (3/4x12" - black & red)
All of this is pretty generic stuff with a few exceptions.
I've used or tried lots of cable over the years and I'll never go back. CE's stuff is really, really nice. The best part about this cable is the flexibility. They are not exaggerating on their web site. I've worked with this in below freezing temps and my other - still nice and still more flexible than stock or other aftermarket cable - wasn't even close. Once cable drops below about 40 degrees it gets progressively stiffer. Which seriously sucks when you need to work on something and its cold.
Even under normal temps, this stuff is like working with wire 4x smaller in GA. I was a little concerned about their sheathing but I haven't seen any degradation. In fact it all still looks brand new.
The fuse holders use bolts which requires that your cable have lugs. They're not fancy and they're not blingy see-though, but they're ultra-reliable and simple. Stay away from the ones that use a set screw to attach the cables for anything exterior to the vehicle. This is a corrosion problem waiting to happen. They are not waterproof or even water resistant which is the only drawback. I mount mine as high up as possible in the bay away from splash. Any fuse holder like this that is waterproof or water resistant should work fine.
Do not use bare copper lugs. They corrode and oxidize. Always use tinned lugs. I recommend using heavy duty lugs as well. I've found a lot of the regular lugs are pretty flimsy and you want a thick, heavy lug if you're drawing lots of amps.
There are cheaper places to get the shrink wrap if you look hard enough, but this is the best stuff I've found. Very thick, very heavy and lots of glue. 3/4" works for 4GA and larger (diameter) and is plenty big enough to use to go over protector on the cable as well. This stuff will last for a long, long time in engine bays which most of the cheaper stuff will not.
There's tons of stuff on why not to use the hammer or punch 'crimper' on the 'net. Read it. They're correct. You will NEVER, EVER get a connection with one of those that you'll get with a real hydraulic crimper and using heavy duty lugs makes it even more difficult to even get sorta, tolerably close. If you already have a hydraulic press, and use a little ingenuity you can use the dies from the cheap, yellow "10 Ton Hydraulic Wire Battery Cable Lug Terminal Crimper Crimping Tool 9 Dies" and save a couple bucks. When mine broke I used a socket and a piece of T6061 bar stock with a little hole drilled in it to finish all my crimps. Work exceptionally well and was in fact easier than using their tool.
Use good cable protector (sheath) wherever there is a possibility of wear or where a cable may come loose and contact something and wear through before you realize it. This is extremely important. Make sure the cable is anchored, away from sharp things and protected. Make sure that there is enough slack in the cable to allow for the normal flex and movement of the engine, body and chassis where the cable transitions from engine to chassis, chassis to body, etc. This is not the time to be trying to save $2 by buying JUST BARELY enough to make it to the battery if you just stretch is a little. A short in a battery cable can fry your entire electrical system and potentially cause a fire that'll burn your vehicle to the ground.
There are two types of fuses. 'slow blow' and 'fast blow' or what most people consider a normal fuse. Standard automotive fuses are 'fast blow'. That means that the fuse will blow (to human perception) immediately when the rating is exceeded. 'Slow blow' fuses blow after n seconds/milliseconds when the rating is exceeded. Usually a few seconds. 'Slow blow' fuses are generally used where in general operation there may be random small spikes above the rating. So, where while spikes may be not desirable, they don't indicate an actual issue. For example, a 175 amp alternator on a system where the maximum continuous used will always only be 120 amps, so you want a fuse that will blow at, say, 130 for safety's sake. But, your stereo amp once in a great while causes a spike up to 140 for just a second. Rather than use a fast blow fuse and size it up to 150/175 amp (or have to randomly replace fuses), its reasonable to use a slow blow fuse @130 because it'll ignore the spike and only blow if you have a real short. The drawback to a slow blow fuse is if you get an intermittent short such as a cable that has worn through on a fender skirt and only contacts for a fraction of a second every couple minutes, the fuse won't blow and the short can still cause damage to sensitive computers and sensors, so, see previous paragraph on cable protector.
Stay away from Mr. Alternator. They have longevity issues as well as business issues. I eventually had problems with mine about a year and a half latter and couldn't even get in contact with them. That place has all kinds of bad press and its justified.
Edward
Quality Power
I run a 175 amp alternator from these guys. Had it for a bit over two years now and haven't had so much as a hiccup.
The guys are Quality Power are very helpful - well, for what help you need for an alternator
- and responsive. They don't list the Montero Sport, but the Monteros use the same alternator. You just have to have your years correct. I shot them an email with the engine year and vehicle and they told me which one to order. Mine was physically identical to the original Mitsu alternator.They have lots of options, but in reality there are only, like, three or four. The 3.5L and 3.0L alternator is the same for our Sports. I have one standard + my HO alternator and they swap between my 1997 Sport 3.0L and 2002 Sport 3.5L.
The alternator ships with a 6 grove pulley. Mitsubishi is 5 groove. You can use the 6 groove with our belts. I've not had any problems and I've been using their pulley for more than a year now.
HOWEVER, I STRONGLY recommend doing a 'finish alignment' of the pulley with the belt and your other pulleys. I've gone through half a dozen alternators and each aligns slightly differently with the other pulleys. If the pulleys aren't aligned with each other, it will cause accelerated belt wear. It will also be putting side force against the bearings which is not something you want to happen.
To align the pulleys, install the alternator with the belt snugged up and then make sure the pulleys line up with each other. If they do out of the box, you're good. If they don't, then you need to pull the pulley off the alternator and install a different shim washer. I have several I've accumulated over the years, so it was just a matter of popping the pulley nut with an impact gun, taking the washer out, reinstalling the pulley and putting it back on the vehicle. The shim washers are easy to get and cost just a few dimes - you can get them from any shop that rebuilds alternators.
Most of mine have had to have the pulley adjusted out (towards the front of the vehicle) which only requires a shim washer. Two have had to go the other way, and to get the pulleys to align required taking enough shim out that the pulley contacted the snout of the alternator. The only way to handle this is to clearance the pulley - which requires a machine shop with a lathe. Or VERY careful grinding or filing of the snout of the alternator casing.
Also, since the pulley Quality Power ships is smaller in diameter than the factory pulley. Their alternators require a different belt. If I remember right I got the one that was a 1.5" shorter than stock. I think it was just the next size down. I'd start with getting the next size smaller and work from there.
Understand that if you're going with a high output alternator and you're actually going to be pulling 125-150+ amps, that you can NOT just install this with the stock wiring. You'll need to build and install auxiliary cables from the alternator to the battery. 4GA is probably sufficient if you're not pulling more than 125-135 amps continuous. Otherwise, you'll need to drop a size or two. The factory cables are what looks like 8GA but I think they say they're 4GA. Doesn't look like my 4GA, that's for sure.
I would also suggest a big slow blow fuse on the positive side for safety reasons. I have a 150 amp fuse installed, which is about 15-20 amps over what I expect to draw at peak and use a 'slow-blow' fuse so that a random spike over 150 won't take out the fuse for no reason.
CE Auto Electric Battery Cable
McMaster-Carr Wire and Cable Protection
Amazon:
Fastronix Military Spec Battery Connectors - 1 positive, 1 negative
TEMCo Hydraulic Cable Lug Crimper TH0005 - 11 US TON 6 AWG to 600 MCM (don't get the smaller 10T yellow one - probably won't last to get the job finished)
Littelfuse 298900 Automotive Single Terminal Fuse Holder
Littelfuse 0MEG150.XP MEGA BP Slo-Blo Automotive Bolt-Down Fuse
Ancor Heavy Duty Lugs - 4 Gauge Wire (tinned - don't use bare copper lugs)
Ancor 306124 Marine Grade Electrical Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink Tubing (3/4x12" - black & red)
All of this is pretty generic stuff with a few exceptions.
I've used or tried lots of cable over the years and I'll never go back. CE's stuff is really, really nice. The best part about this cable is the flexibility. They are not exaggerating on their web site. I've worked with this in below freezing temps and my other - still nice and still more flexible than stock or other aftermarket cable - wasn't even close. Once cable drops below about 40 degrees it gets progressively stiffer. Which seriously sucks when you need to work on something and its cold.
Even under normal temps, this stuff is like working with wire 4x smaller in GA. I was a little concerned about their sheathing but I haven't seen any degradation. In fact it all still looks brand new. The fuse holders use bolts which requires that your cable have lugs. They're not fancy and they're not blingy see-though, but they're ultra-reliable and simple. Stay away from the ones that use a set screw to attach the cables for anything exterior to the vehicle. This is a corrosion problem waiting to happen. They are not waterproof or even water resistant which is the only drawback. I mount mine as high up as possible in the bay away from splash. Any fuse holder like this that is waterproof or water resistant should work fine.
Do not use bare copper lugs. They corrode and oxidize. Always use tinned lugs. I recommend using heavy duty lugs as well. I've found a lot of the regular lugs are pretty flimsy and you want a thick, heavy lug if you're drawing lots of amps.
There are cheaper places to get the shrink wrap if you look hard enough, but this is the best stuff I've found. Very thick, very heavy and lots of glue. 3/4" works for 4GA and larger (diameter) and is plenty big enough to use to go over protector on the cable as well. This stuff will last for a long, long time in engine bays which most of the cheaper stuff will not.
There's tons of stuff on why not to use the hammer or punch 'crimper' on the 'net. Read it. They're correct. You will NEVER, EVER get a connection with one of those that you'll get with a real hydraulic crimper and using heavy duty lugs makes it even more difficult to even get sorta, tolerably close. If you already have a hydraulic press, and use a little ingenuity you can use the dies from the cheap, yellow "10 Ton Hydraulic Wire Battery Cable Lug Terminal Crimper Crimping Tool 9 Dies" and save a couple bucks. When mine broke I used a socket and a piece of T6061 bar stock with a little hole drilled in it to finish all my crimps. Work exceptionally well and was in fact easier than using their tool.
Use good cable protector (sheath) wherever there is a possibility of wear or where a cable may come loose and contact something and wear through before you realize it. This is extremely important. Make sure the cable is anchored, away from sharp things and protected. Make sure that there is enough slack in the cable to allow for the normal flex and movement of the engine, body and chassis where the cable transitions from engine to chassis, chassis to body, etc. This is not the time to be trying to save $2 by buying JUST BARELY enough to make it to the battery if you just stretch is a little. A short in a battery cable can fry your entire electrical system and potentially cause a fire that'll burn your vehicle to the ground.
There are two types of fuses. 'slow blow' and 'fast blow' or what most people consider a normal fuse. Standard automotive fuses are 'fast blow'. That means that the fuse will blow (to human perception) immediately when the rating is exceeded. 'Slow blow' fuses blow after n seconds/milliseconds when the rating is exceeded. Usually a few seconds. 'Slow blow' fuses are generally used where in general operation there may be random small spikes above the rating. So, where while spikes may be not desirable, they don't indicate an actual issue. For example, a 175 amp alternator on a system where the maximum continuous used will always only be 120 amps, so you want a fuse that will blow at, say, 130 for safety's sake. But, your stereo amp once in a great while causes a spike up to 140 for just a second. Rather than use a fast blow fuse and size it up to 150/175 amp (or have to randomly replace fuses), its reasonable to use a slow blow fuse @130 because it'll ignore the spike and only blow if you have a real short. The drawback to a slow blow fuse is if you get an intermittent short such as a cable that has worn through on a fender skirt and only contacts for a fraction of a second every couple minutes, the fuse won't blow and the short can still cause damage to sensitive computers and sensors, so, see previous paragraph on cable protector.
... I was searching for a HO alternator for my sport. Came across your post on 4x4 wire regarding the mr alternator HO. I noticed it was from 08 and was curious how well it held up in the long run. ...
Stay away from Mr. Alternator. They have longevity issues as well as business issues. I eventually had problems with mine about a year and a half latter and couldn't even get in contact with them. That place has all kinds of bad press and its justified.
Edward
