2000 4WD Sport front Disk Brakes

[Tripp]

Hi Folks.
Since the first time I had to have the brakes on my 2000 4WD Sport serviced, I have not been happy with them. And they have been service several times over the years. The disk always end up warping in time. I deal with it. Well it's time again. And I would like to know if there are any After market Disk and pads out there that are better. I have looked but don't know who or what are better.

Any recommindations??? Is this common with all Montero Sports or is it me and/or just my Sport. I do a lot of highway and rush hour highway driving. But I don't ride my brakes un-nessarially(sp?).

Thank You for any help
Tripp

[jkdv8]

Make sure whoever does it uses quality components. There are posts on here regarding the issue of different pad and disc combo as well as using brake components off the 3000gt. Not sure if that ever came to fruition.

[bdmontero]

I ordered a kit off of eBay that had drilled slotted rotors and green ebc pads.

Sent from my SM-N900V using proboards

[ES_97Sport]

Sept 19, 2014 15:02:29 GMT -5 Tripp said:

Hi Folks.
Since the first time I had to have the brakes on my 2000 4WD Sport serviced, I have not been happy with them. And they have been service several times over the years. The disk always end up warping in time. I deal with it. Well it's time again. And I would like to know if there are any After market Disk and pads out there that are better. I have looked but don't know who or what are better.

Any recommindations??? Is this common with all Montero Sports or is it me and/or just my Sport. I do a lot of highway and rush hour highway driving. But I don't ride my brakes un-nessarially(sp?).

Thank You for any help
Tripp

If they're warping you have a problem and it won't be fixed by throwing aftermarket stuff at it. There is nothing wrong with the stock brakes from the manufacturer.

What you're describing is caused by heat and that is caused by dragging disk pads. The piston(s) in the caliper(s) isn't retracting and you're getting abnormal pad drag on the rotor.

If this is a problem occurring equally (both sides either front or rear, or both front and rear) then I'd strongly suspect the master cylinder and/or proportioning valve.

If this is happening on only one wheel or one front and one rear, then you probably have a caliper(s) that have pistons sticking.

BEFORE you change anything fix your problem or you just going to trash some expensive add-on parts.

Edward

[Tripp]

ES_97Sport.
It is both front. I have had the dealership do the work each time and told them about it. They come back with every thing is fine. Actually been told it is my driving. I don't ride the brakes. One foot, two pedals. I had another guy tell me the back brakes are loose and not doing their job helping. So it is over heating the front. Said I need to adjust the back. How do you adjust read disk? Never heard of that.

Thanks
Tripp

[ES_97Sport]

Feb 13, 2015 16:45:33 GMT -5 Tripp said:

ES_97Sport.
It is both front. I have had the dealership do the work each time and told them about it. They come back with every thing is fine. Actually been told it is my driving. I don't ride the brakes. One foot, two pedals. I had another guy tell me the back brakes are loose and not doing their job helping. So it is over heating the front. Said I need to adjust the back. How do you adjust read disk? Never heard of that.

Thanks
Tripp

The front and rear brakes on the 3.0L and 3.5L Sports are disk. There's no 'adjusting' anything. Almost certainly the person that told you that thought the backs were drum.

Brakes convert kinetic energy into heat and the brake hardware and rims dissipate the heat. The front brakes do 70% of the work. So, baring mechanical issues, if you're doing a lot of hard braking for long stop and go commutes in high ambient temperatures, you will generate A LOT of heat in the front brakes which COULD in theory cause rotor warpage.

A lot (most) of the brake cooling comes from the air flowing around the rotors, calipers and rims while the vehicle is in motion. If you can't get rid of that heat as fast or faster than you're generating it, eventually they'll overheat and, yes, you will warp a rotor.

In this case, I suspect the cause would be your driving style. I haven't heard of anyone having issues with the brakes on Sports and I've talked to the techs at the dealership quite a bit about the brake setups over the years since I bought my first '97. They don't see any more or less issues than with anything else - in most cases much, much less. I've run across a lot more problems with Toys than I've ever heard of with Mitsu anythings.

The only time(s) I've seen/heard of this is with people who constantly race up behind someone and then slam on the brakes and they repeat this over and over and over in stop and go traffic. That constant pattern generates tons of heat and because you're not moving hardly the heat just builds up. So, if you're doing this, stop it.

The other thing - and this isn't a big deal here, but I've heard the SoCal guys talk about it - is if you're doing stop and go commute on very long down hill stretches where you're constancy on and off the brakes. The truckers here have this problem. Downshift and stay off the brakes. I know how our A/Ts behave on long down hill stretches and you can take a lot of stress off the brakes by downshifting the transmission and letting compression braking help you out. I drive my '03 like this in the mountains. Barely have to touch the brakes.

As I said previously, the only thing that this could be mechanically would be the master cylinder or the proportioning valve. Because its both sides, it has to be a central point failing. In other words, it isn't one plugged brake line. While its POSSIBLE its the master cylinder or proportioning valve, I consider it unlikely. But, to confirm this you'd need to make absolutely sure the master cylinder and proportioning valve are clean and in good working order and that the lines are clean and clear. The pistons have to retract and the only thing that doesn't involve your foot as the problem would be them not retracting and dragging on the rotor.

I presume you have ABS so there may be the possibility of something there, but I think that's as unlikely as the other two.

Anyway, somewhere to start. Again, you need to figure out what's going on be it mechanical or your driving before trying to stick a bunch of aftermarket part on. Its especially easy to make a brake problem a lot worse and a lot more expensive if you start randomly slapping on after market pads and rotors when you don't know what you're doing.

Edward