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Post by jpele21 on Sept 30, 2014 13:40:38 GMT -5
Well, I don't think I shared this on the forum, but I was experiencing a droning sound (very faint) from my front end. I also had some play in the passenger side wheel. I looked at tie rods, ball joints, and then narrowed it down to a wheel bearing problem (already kinda knew based on the sound). I was able to tighten down the bearings a bit and the play in the wheel is now gone. I went for a few test drives and the drone is now gone as well. While this may not be the final fix for the front end, it made the ride way better and everything else seems to be in good working order.
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Post by ES_97Sport on Sept 30, 2014 14:37:30 GMT -5
Well, I don't think I shared this on the forum, but I was experiencing a droning sound (very faint) from my front end. I also had some play in the passenger side wheel. I looked at tie rods, ball joints, and then narrowed it down to a wheel bearing problem (already kinda knew based on the sound). I was able to tighten down the bearings a bit and the play in the wheel is now gone. I went for a few test drives and the drone is now gone as well. While this may not be the final fix for the front end, it made the ride way better and everything else seems to be in good working order. A suggestion for the future ... SynPower® Synthetic Grease... for everything under your vehicle with a grease zerk.  This stuff lasts a LOT longer than standard grease and still works if you get water in whatever part. It will also increase the life span of the parts you use this on considerably. It won't fix already worn out parts though. I especially use this on my big '97 Sport with the solid axle swap because the front GM/Ford hub assemblies don't seal (as) water tight as the Mitsu hub/bearing assemblies do and it gets into a lot of over the axle mud/water. Its a little expensive at Napa, but other places carry this. A couple tubes goes a LONG way. Edward |
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Post by jpele21 on Sept 30, 2014 14:48:27 GMT -5
Time to make the switch to a better grease. I did hit all the zerks though last week.
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Post by Montero-3.5XS on Sept 30, 2014 17:57:31 GMT -5
jpele21, to tighten down the bearings as you said you did, did you need to disassemble the brakes, hub etc to do it?
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Post by ES_97Sport on Sept 30, 2014 20:00:27 GMT -5
jpele21, to tighten down the bearings as you said you did, did you need to disassemble the brakes, hub etc to do it? You're supposed to pull the calipers on disk brake setups before you adjust the wheel bearings. Ideally, pull the hub off, re-grease the bearings and reassemble. Torque the hub nut to the specified setting. To just adjust, pull the caliper and remove the hub 'cap' (six bolts). You'll need a big socket to fit the nut and a torque wrench. Edward |
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Post by jpele21 on Oct 1, 2014 23:01:17 GMT -5
Rented a hub socket from a local shop and retorqued
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Post by ES_97Sport on Oct 2, 2014 15:05:52 GMT -5
Rented a hub socket from a local shop and retorqued Do you remember what size that was? Its been a LONG time since I've had to touch Mitsu hubs. Edward |
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Post by jpele21 on Oct 18, 2014 15:04:55 GMT -5
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This stuff lasts a LOT longer than standard grease and still works if you get water in whatever part. It will also increase the life span of the parts you use this on considerably. It won't fix already worn out parts though. 
