Drive Shaft Center Support Bearing "Video" "Carrier Bearing"

[codeman94]

I start hearing noises while letting off the gas "decelerating" or in reverse. I looked under the truck trying to find anything and noticed that I could shake the drive shaft all around. It looks like its going to be $130 to replace that center support bearing in the middle of the truck where the two drive shafts connect. I am guessing this is due to the age of the truck "236,800 Miles". Has anyone came across this issue?

[dustynl7]

I just noticed the same thing with mine when I was under it last night. Haven't heard any noise from it, but I can moved the drive shaft around in that bushing. Seems to be worn out. Let me know if you end up doing it please, also where did you find the part at?

[codeman94]

I found the part at amazon for $103. I got the part # from the dealer "part# MR534950". All of the dealerships have to order it and don't have it in stock. All of the local part houses can't locate it in their systems.

www.amazon.com/Mitsubishi-MR534950-Driveshaft-Carrier-Bearing/dp/B00EAXFI8C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414765341&sr=8-1&keywords=MR534950

[ES_97Sport]

Oct 31, 2014 9:22:35 GMT -5 codeman94 said:

I found the part at amazon for $103. I got the part # from the dealer "part# MR534950". All of the dealerships have to order it and don't have it in stock. All of the local part houses can't locate it in their systems.

www.amazon.com/Mitsubishi-MR534950-Driveshaft-Carrier-Bearing/dp/B00EAXFI8C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414765341&sr=8-1&keywords=MR534950

That's called a carrier bearing, BTW.

Yea, good luck finding this at anywhere but the dealership. This is only on the 2WD only models so I imagine it's even rarer than normal Mitsu stuff.

There should be NO play in the bearing AT ALL. Especially vertically.

200+K? Yea, I'd expect it to need replacing. I have two piece front drive shaft with a huge carrier bearing and it was due for replacement this year, too. Those get a lot of wear and tear if anything is even slightly out of balance.

Edward

[codeman94]

Oct 31, 2014 12:47:29 GMT -5 ES_97Sport said:

Oct 31, 2014 9:22:35 GMT -5 codeman94 said:

I found the part at amazon for $103. I got the part # from the dealer "part# MR534950". All of the dealerships have to order it and don't have it in stock. All of the local part houses can't locate it in their systems.

www.amazon.com/Mitsubishi-MR534950-Driveshaft-Carrier-Bearing/dp/B00EAXFI8C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414765341&sr=8-1&keywords=MR534950

That's called a carrier bearing, BTW.

Yea, good luck finding this at anywhere but the dealership. This is only on the 2WD only models so I imagine it's even rarer than normal Mitsu stuff.

There should be NO play in the bearing AT ALL. Especially vertically.

200+K? Yea, I'd expect it to need replacing. I have two piece front drive shaft with a huge carrier bearing and it was due for replacement this year, too. Those get a lot of wear and tear if anything is even slightly out of balance.

Edward

What would be the easiest way to replace the bearing?

[codeman94]

Nov 1, 2014 13:51:04 GMT -5 codeman94 said:

Oct 31, 2014 12:47:29 GMT -5 ES_97Sport said:

That's called a carrier bearing, BTW.

Yea, good luck finding this at anywhere but the dealership. This is only on the 2WD only models so I imagine it's even rarer than normal Mitsu stuff.

There should be NO play in the bearing AT ALL. Especially vertically.

200+K? Yea, I'd expect it to need replacing. I have two piece front drive shaft with a huge carrier bearing and it was due for replacement this year, too. Those get a lot of wear and tear if anything is even slightly out of balance.

Edward

What would be the easiest way to replace the bearing?

I got the drive shaft off the truck. How do I get the two drive shafts apart in order to swap the part.

[ES_97Sport]

Nov 2, 2014 15:31:21 GMT -5 codeman94 said:

Nov 1, 2014 13:51:04 GMT -5 codeman94 said:

What would be the easiest way to replace the bearing?

I got the drive shaft off the truck. How do I get the two drive shafts apart in order to swap the part. ....

I know you're not going to want to hear this, but I'm not really sure. I've never even seen that in the FSMs. (Doesn't mean it's not there. I don't pay much attention to the 2WD drive train stuff.) I would not be surprised that Mitsu expects you to replace the entire drive shaft assembly with the carrier bearing.

Your setup looks just like mine (only a smaller and a a lot longer). I'm pretty sure that the way they have to replace that is to cut the tube, pull out the yoke, press the carrier bearing off the yoke, press a new one back on, then re-weld the yoke back in the tube and re-balance the assembly.

The yoke isn't screwed or bolted into the drive shaft tube. It's welded. Obviously, you can't take the bearing off over the yoke.

I have a drive shaft shop here in Denver that builds/rebuilds my drive shafts. They specialize in custom drive shafts for 4WD and racing amongst other things. I would suggest talking to a couple REPUTABLE local 4WD shops that do fabrication and custom builds, find out who they use and take it to them. Make SURE whoever has the capability to rebalance and will actually do it, cause once you cut the yoke out it WILL need to rebalanced or you're going to be back at this in a couple years.

I don't want to be any more of a wet blanket, but I also suspect your going to run into problems getting an aftermarket carrier bearing. But, that may just be my ignorance speaking. The drive shaft guys I deal with manage to get stuff I never would have thought possible without problems.

[edit]

Ok. I was wrong. See the illustration at the bottom of the page in the following link.

ILLUSTRATIONS WITH MITSUBISHI MR232982

The yoke is bolted to the drive shaft the same way a yoke is bolted to the differential pinion. You'll need to pull the nut, washer and press the yoke off the drive shaft. The carrier bearing should be pressed on the drive shaft so that will need to be pressed off and a new one pressed on. Then you'll have to reinstall the yoke with the nut and washer.

IF the carrier bearing is pressed on, you'll need a bearing splitter and a BIG gear puller. You'll also need the puller to get the yoke off. Normally those are a tight press fit. Rental shops have these. That's were I get mine when I need them since I don't need this kind of stuff often. You put the bearing splitter behind the carrier bearing so it catches the little sleeve inside - you don't want to pull on the outer piece of the bearing. Pressing it back on usually requires a large press - not high tonnage, just with long enough clearance to get a long drive shaft into the press. You CAN NOT USE A HAMMER. You also can NOT use a hammer to knock the yoke off.

Not too complicated, but you'll probably need some somewhat specialized tools.

OH, and while you're at it, you probably ought to replace that u-joint, too, since you're going to have to knock it out to get the yoke off. Spend the extra $$ and get a Mitsu joint. It'll last a LOT longer than the cheap aftermarket ones will. If you don't have a big bench vise, the rental shops have u-joint presses, too.


I use something like this but I have a press ...

Bearing splitter/separator

Something like this if the jaws are wide enough to fit around the carrier bearing assembly ...

Gear puller set

I use this with an appropriate OD socket to press in/out u-joints (or my press if I'm lazy) ...

Ball joint service kit

Here in CO its a lot cheaper to rent this stuff unless you're going to be doing this once a year.

AGAIN, if you actually need these. Don't be pounding on the bearing and yoke with a hammer!
[/edit]

Edward

[codeman94]

Nov 3, 2014 14:28:25 GMT -5 ES_97Sport said:

Nov 2, 2014 15:31:21 GMT -5 codeman94 said:

I got the drive shaft off the truck. How do I get the two drive shafts apart in order to swap the part. ....

I know you're not going to want to hear this, but I'm not really sure. I've never even seen that in the FSMs. (Doesn't mean it's not there. I don't pay much attention to the 2WD drive train stuff.) I would not be surprised that Mitsu expects you to replace the entire drive shaft assembly with the carrier bearing.

Your setup looks just like mine (only a smaller and a a lot longer). I'm pretty sure that the way they have to replace that is to cut the tube, pull out the yoke, press the carrier bearing off the yoke, press a new one back on, then re-weld the yoke back in the tube and re-balance the assembly.

The yoke isn't screwed or bolted into the drive shaft tube. It's welded. Obviously, you can't take the bearing off over the yoke.

I have a drive shaft shop here in Denver that builds/rebuilds my drive shafts. They specialize in custom drive shafts for 4WD and racing amongst other things. I would suggest talking to a couple REPUTABLE local 4WD shops that do fabrication and custom builds, find out who they use and take it to them. Make SURE whoever has the capability to rebalance and will actually do it, cause once you cut the yoke out it WILL need to rebalanced or you're going to be back at this in a couple years.

I don't want to be any more of a wet blanket, but I also suspect your going to run into problems getting an aftermarket carrier bearing. But, that may just be my ignorance speaking. The drive shaft guys I deal with manage to get stuff I never would have thought possible without problems.

[edit]

Ok. I was wrong. See the illustration at the bottom of the page in the following link.

ILLUSTRATIONS WITH MITSUBISHI MR232982

The yoke is bolted to the drive shaft the same way a yoke is bolted to the differential pinion. You'll need to pull the nut, washer and press the yoke off the drive shaft. The carrier bearing should be pressed on the drive shaft so that will need to be pressed off and a new one pressed on. Then you'll have to reinstall the yoke with the nut and washer.

IF the carrier bearing is pressed on, you'll need a bearing splitter and a BIG gear puller. You'll also need the puller to get the yoke off. Normally those are a tight press fit. Rental shops have these. That's were I get mine when I need them since I don't need this kind of stuff often. You put the bearing splitter behind the carrier bearing so it catches the little sleeve inside - you don't want to pull on the outer piece of the bearing. Pressing it back on usually requires a large press - not high tonnage, just with long enough clearance to get a long drive shaft into the press. You CAN NOT USE A HAMMER. You also can NOT use a hammer to knock the yoke off.

Not too complicated, but you'll probably need some somewhat specialized tools.

OH, and while you're at it, you probably ought to replace that u-joint, too, since you're going to have to knock it out to get the yoke off. Spend the extra $$ and get a Mitsu joint. It'll last a LOT longer than the cheap aftermarket ones will. If you don't have a big bench vise, the rental shops have u-joint presses, too.


I use something like this but I have a press ...

Bearing splitter/separator

Something like this if the jaws are wide enough to fit around the carrier bearing assembly ...

Gear puller set

I use this with an appropriate OD socket to press in/out u-joints (or my press if I'm lazy) ...

Ball joint service kit

Here in CO its a lot cheaper to rent this stuff unless you're going to be doing this once a year.

AGAIN, if you actually need these. Don't be pounding on the bearing and yoke with a hammer!
[/edit]

Edward

Thanks for your help! I finally got that fixed, it was a pain but no more squealing:)

[ES_97Sport]

Sweet! Yea, drive shafts. Good times, good times .... I just had both on my big Sport rebuilt a couple months ago. Amazing how much vibration and/or noise goes away when everything is working right.

Edward