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Post by codeman94 on Nov 1, 2014 0:52:31 GMT -5
The problem was intermittent but now it won't go away at all. I had the timing belt done about a year and a half ago with aftermarket parts "tensioner, belt, water pump". Here is a video of the issue....
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Post by codeman94 on Nov 1, 2014 8:34:30 GMT -5
I pull spark plug in cylinder 1 and it was dripping in oil and pretty fouled up the plug even looked like the gap was off. Could this be the problem? I checked the hydraulic tensioner with my stethoscope and did not sound like it was coming from there.
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Post by codeman94 on Nov 1, 2014 8:59:52 GMT -5
I was thinking about bringing it to firestone complete auto care and getting both heads reworked and plugs; does anyone know about how much this would possibly cost?
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Post by bdmontero on Nov 1, 2014 9:41:38 GMT -5
A knock like that usually indicates a bad timing belt tensioner or low oil level. Or the lifters are clogged. Is it a tick or a knock? Go to Walmart. Get the 10w30 valvoline maxlife. Get the v6 can of restore. Warm up the car to operating temperature. Drain all the old oil out. Add new QUALITY oil filter. Napa gold is my preferred choice. Add maxlife and restore. I can almost guarantee you that noise will disappear.
Sent from my SM-N900V using proboards
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Post by codeman94 on Nov 1, 2014 10:07:40 GMT -5
I ordered a OEM Mitsu Oil filter from amazon earlier today so I will have to wait to do the oil change until it comes in. I currently have 2,383 miles on the current oil change and I am using Valvoline Convectional 5w30 and V6 Restore with a Bosh Distance Plus filter "$12 Filter".
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Post by bdmontero on Nov 1, 2014 10:12:38 GMT -5
5w30 is too thin. Ditch the bosch. I wouldn't use any oil filter other than OEM or Napa. Just read a LONG oil filter review. A LOT of them didn't pass the test. Do valvoline max life 10w30 and restore. That will fix your problem.
Sent from my SM-N900V using proboards
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Post by codeman94 on Nov 1, 2014 10:18:12 GMT -5
5w30 is too thin. Ditch the bosch. I wouldn't use any oil filter other than OEM or Napa. Just read a LONG oil filter review. A LOT of them didn't pass the test. Do valvoline max life 10w30 and restore. That will fix your problem. Sent from my SM-N900V using proboards Thanks man I will give that a try! I am praying that it works! |
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Post by codeman94 on Nov 1, 2014 11:06:35 GMT -5
I am now getting P0305 Cylinder 5 misfire and it is now shaking very bad and dying after reving. It sounds like the noise is actually coming from that cylinder. What could it be? After idling for 5min theres also a cloud of smoke when pressing on the gas. What type of spark plugs are the best to get?
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Post by jkdv8 on Nov 1, 2014 12:12:06 GMT -5
Sounds like a serious lack of oil to the valve train. Mainly the lifters. Mine had the lifter tick at startup until I had the valve cover gaskets changed. I would change the plug seals indefinitely, valve cover gaskets, and plugs (NGK iridium) as well as what bd said you should be good. The first tune up I had done apparently somehow the plug wire had rusted to the plug causing a misfire. Guess water somehow got down in the tube. Weird. This past time just about all the plug tubes were filled with oil and the covers were leaking pretty bad.
Was it the top of plug coated in oil or the end of it. What color was the smoke. White could be coolant leaking in the cylinder. Blackish is the carbon burning off from the sea foam and blue is oil burning.
After reading your last post hopefully the timing belt isn't jumping teeth. Highly unlikely however if all that was recently done. I would advise against revving til you get sorted out.
Btw. That truck looks immaculate for a quarter million miles.
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Post by codeman94 on Nov 1, 2014 12:43:01 GMT -5
Sounds like a serious lack of oil to the valve train. Mainly the lifters. Mine had the lifter tick at startup until I had the valve cover gaskets changed. I would change the plug seals indefinitely, valve cover gaskets, and plugs (NGK iridium) as well as what bd said you should be good. The first tune up I had done apparently somehow the plug wire had rusted to the plug causing a misfire. Guess water somehow got down in the tube. Weird. This past time just about all the plug tubes were filled with oil and the covers were leaking pretty bad. Was it the top of plug coated in oil or the end of it. What color was the smoke. White could be coolant leaking in the cylinder. Blackish is the carbon burning off from the sea foam and blue is oil burning. After reading your last post hopefully the timing belt isn't jumping teeth. Highly unlikely however if all that was recently done. I would advise against revving til you get sorted out. Btw. That truck looks immaculate for a quarter million miles. The end of the spark plug was coated in oil and the smoke is blue. I just had the t-belt, cam, and crank seals replaced at 214k February of 2013 along with the water pump and tensioner. I also replaced the fuel filter, spark plugs "NGK Iridium", v/c gaskets, and tube seals at 207k. I also had a tranny flush at 225k. I pulled off the t-belt cover and it looked good, the belt was tight and I could still see the lettering on the belt. The noise sounds like it's coming from the rear passenger side top of the engine "near cylinder 5". I had a problem with it shaking and dying two weeks ago but I replaced the IAC and it slowly went away, but now its back with a noise and shakes worse then before. PS. Thanks Man! I've put a lot of elbow grease to it lol! |
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Post by ES_97Sport on Nov 3, 2014 14:10:48 GMT -5
The end of the spark plug was coated in oil and the smoke is blue. .... Oil on the plug tip means either you lost the oil control ring on that cylinder or you valve stem seal on the intake valve is so bad that the vacuum in the intake tract/cylinder is sucking oil past the seal. A LOT of oil. Enough to soak the plug sounds more like the oil control ring. In which case its engine rebuild time. Edward |
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Post by codeman94 on Nov 3, 2014 20:31:27 GMT -5
The end of the spark plug was coated in oil and the smoke is blue. .... Oil on the plug tip means either you lost the oil control ring on that cylinder or you valve stem seal on the intake valve is so bad that the vacuum in the intake tract/cylinder is sucking oil past the seal. A LOT of oil. Enough to soak the plug sounds more like the oil control ring. In which case its engine rebuild time. Edward I am just going to change out the plugs and see if that fixes it. My wife is wanting me to sell it, so it looks like I just need to get about 3 to 4 more months out of it. She and I are tired of sinking money in to it. I hate to let it go though:( I'll post back after I do the spark plugs to tell how it is doing. I appreciate everyones help!! Thank y'all for all of your help and advice!  |
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Post by codeman94 on Nov 4, 2014 21:29:35 GMT -5
It's still ticking/knocking I changed the plugs and they were fouled but not to horrible. I sea foamed the intake and it's still ticking. I fixed the misfire issue also. I check the t-belt and its in great shape too. The truck has not lost any power and idles very smooth now too. What else could it be?? What could I do?? What oil should I use?? The ticking is very loud and sound like it going to throw a rod.
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Post by ES_97Sport on Nov 5, 2014 13:01:49 GMT -5
It's still ticking/knocking I changed the plugs and they were fouled but not to horrible. I sea foamed the intake and it's still ticking. I fixed the misfire issue also. I check the t-belt and its in great shape too. The truck has not lost any power and idles very smooth now too. What else could it be?? What could I do?? What oil should I use?? The ticking is very loud and sound like it going to throw a rod. Figure out whether the noise if from the bottom or top. The easy way to do that is with a mechanic's stethoscope (or a really long screwdriver). There's a big difference between a 'tick' and a 'knock' and knowing which one it is will help a lot. Test the bottom, both heads and front and rear for both. If it IS a upper end 'tick', you may have one or more clogged cam followers. Change the oil - to 10-30 or 10-40 - and add in a can of BG MOA. Use regular oil, run it for 3-4K and then repeat. It'll take a while but that should do it if that's the issue. You may also have managed to get air trapped in one or more cam followers in which case you need to follow the procedure in the FSMs to bleed that out. It is also possible that you have an electrical problem and the injectors aren't getting the proper voltage. Injectors will 'tick' if the there's a problem or if the system is browning out. You may also have a cam follower that's collapsed. There's nothing you can do for that other than have the top end gone through and you DO NOT replace just a follower - it's cam and all the followers as a set. Since you don't have an oil pressure gauge it's hard to say what's going on there, but low oil pressure will also cause clatter in the top end. Eventually it'll eat your engine. A KNOCK would indicate a rod or crank bearing. If could also be piston slap caused by wear of the piston/cylinder. Engine replacement/rebuild time. Did you keep track of WHICH plugs were oil fouled? Edward |
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Post by codeman94 on Nov 5, 2014 13:47:51 GMT -5
It's still ticking/knocking I changed the plugs and they were fouled but not to horrible. I sea foamed the intake and it's still ticking. I fixed the misfire issue also. I check the t-belt and its in great shape too. The truck has not lost any power and idles very smooth now too. What else could it be?? What could I do?? What oil should I use?? The ticking is very loud and sound like it going to throw a rod. Figure out whether the noise if from the bottom or top. The easy way to do that is with a mechanic's stethoscope (or a really long screwdriver). There's a big difference between a 'tick' and a 'knock' and knowing which one it is will help a lot. Test the bottom, both heads and front and rear for both. If it IS a upper end 'tick', you may have one or more clogged cam followers. Change the oil - to 10-30 or 10-40 - and add in a can of BG MOA. Use regular oil, run it for 3-4K and then repeat. It'll take a while but that should do it if that's the issue. You may also have managed to get air trapped in one or more cam followers in which case you need to follow the procedure in the FSMs to bleed that out. It is also possible that you have an electrical problem and the injectors aren't getting the proper voltage. Injectors will 'tick' if the there's a problem or if the system is browning out. You may also have a cam follower that's collapsed. There's nothing you can do for that other than have the top end gone through and you DO NOT replace just a follower - it's cam and all the followers as a set. Since you don't have an oil pressure gauge it's hard to say what's going on there, but low oil pressure will also cause clatter in the top end. Eventually it'll eat your engine. A KNOCK would indicate a rod or crank bearing. If could also be piston slap caused by wear of the piston/cylinder. Engine replacement/rebuild time. Did you keep track of WHICH plugs were oil fouled? Edward They were all fouled but cylinder 6 was the worst. It sounds like a tick from the top passenger side but when I get underneath it sounds more like a knock. |
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