01 Montero Sport 4wd. Body lift & suspension lift info...

[redraif]

Ok so I've not stopped reading the forums for days now. Lol.

Still trying to understand the technicality of lifts... We have always lowered cars lol. Firebirds, mustangs, & Fieros.

I am trying to fit 285/75 r16 on this rig. I have a line on some used. I can't source the 265/75 used. Sux being on a tight budget. So I'm looking first at a body lift to fit them. Since its the lower cost of the 2. This will be a highway pavement truck for now.
Is this enough to get the 285s?

Am I understanding correctly that when lifting on the MS....

2 inches is max to not have to extend lines? Is this 2 inch body lift, suspension lift or either? So if I do both 2 in body & 2 in susp, I would have to lengthen things? What would need lengthening? Brake lines? How bad is this? I read it was mentioned just uncoiling some of the hard line?

#1
BASIC minimum on suspension lift would consist of cranking the torsion bars up front. Then in the rear, because of my year 01 and being a sport, that I would have to purchase replacement "stronger" springs and longer shocks? OME is the source for these...

I have also read that the sports are sprung so they sit higher in the rear. So conceivably I can crank the front to even it with the rear? And that will give me a little bit? Any diy on messing with the torsion bars w/ pictures perhaps?

#2
Ok the body lift. 2 inch max before you have to extend lines. You have to buy a body block kit for another vehicle with 2 inch diameter and 2 inch height? What other vehicle is best to make a kit with? Summit is down the street. How many blocks? 4 door 2001 ms 4wd. Or I have read www.4crawler.com has a basic kit he makes up for us?

www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/MonteroBodyLift.shtml#TypicalKit

Are they legit and still in business? Finding info in such old threads makes me nervous.

To do the install? You loosen bolt connecting body to frame? Then replace factory blocks with longer ones or are there none there? You take you stock bolts to the hardware store to swap for grade 8 bolts that are 2 inches longer? Is that the basics? So many pictures are dead in threads.

Any links to a diy? It would be nice to know where are the bolts located and how many contact points.

I just need some guidance as I'm a visual learner. Heck I will even put a diy together myself.... lol!

One I did for the fiero....
www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/118751.html#lastpost

[ES_97Sport]

Dec 15, 2014 16:40:44 GMT -5 redraif said:

Ok so I've not stopped reading the forums for days now. Lol.

Still trying to understand the technicality of lifts...

See my response to your post in General. Most of this is covered there.

Am I understanding correctly that when lifting on the MS....

2 inches is max to not have to extend lines? Is this 2 inch body lift,

Body lift.

So if I do both 2 in body & 2 in susp, I would have to lengthen things? What would need lengthening? Brake lines? How bad is this? I read it was mentioned just uncoiling some of the hard line?

Bad enough that you don't want to go there. Do NOT go more than 2" in a body lift. Besides which, there's absolutely no point whatsoever.

There is no 'lengthening things' in a suspension lift. See my response to your question in General. In this respect, a suspension lift of rear coils and front torsion bars is much simpler than a body lift.

BTW, those brake lines are coiled for a reason and I can cite at least one reason you don't want to 'un-coil' them.

#1
BASIC minimum on suspension lift would consist of cranking the torsion bars up front. Then in the rear, because of my year 01 and being a sport, that I would have to purchase replacement "stronger" springs and longer shocks? OME is the source for these...

I have also read that the sports are sprung so they sit higher in the rear. So conceivably I can crank the front to even it with the rear? And that will give me a little bit? Any diy on messing with the torsion bars w/ pictures perhaps?

Correct. You can tighten up the front torsion bars - thereby increasing the spring rate.

No, they're not 'stronger'. 'Stronger' - I presume, you mean higher rate. Anyway, they're just longer springs.

Yes, you will need longer shocks. Rancho, OME are simple choices. But, ONLY if you do a suspension lift. Not needed for just a body lift. You will also need longer end links for the rear sway bar.

Its not 'sprung'. That's called a rake. But, you are correct. The rear sits slightly higher than the front. All models - '97-'05.

Yes, that's correct. However, keep in mind that this is an IFS double wishbone suspension. If you crank the front torsion bars to raise the front you loose wheel travel. There is supposed to be a certain amount of up and down wheel travel in the front suspension. Also, if you do this, keep in mind that you will change the angle on the half shafts which can increase CV wear.

See my response on General.

#2
Ok the body lift. 2 inch max before you have to extend lines. You have to buy a body block kit for another vehicle with 2 inch diameter and 2 inch height? What other vehicle is best to make a kit with? Summit is down the street. How many blocks? 4 door 2001 ms 4wd. Or I have read www.4crawler.com has a basic kit he makes up for us?

www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/MonteroBodyLift.shtml#TypicalKit

Are they legit and still in business? Finding info in such old threads makes me nervous.

Its not just lines, it's also wiring. Again, see my response in General and also read 'New Member' in this section. We've been all over body lifts.

Don't know if they're still in business. Ask the guys on 4x4 Wire. That's where all the Montero guys are and they'll know if anyone does.

To do the install? You loosen bolt connecting body to frame? Then replace factory blocks with longer ones or are there none there? You take you stock bolts to the hardware store to swap for grade 8 bolts that are 2 inches longer? Is that the basics? So many pictures are dead in threads.

Re-read the page you posted the link for. They pretty much explain all your questions.

Any links to a diy? It would be nice to know where are the bolts located and how many contact points.

I just need some guidance as I'm a visual learner. Heck I will even put a diy together myself.... lol!

The problem is that there aren't that many people that wheel Sports. And, those that are hard core enough to get into a body lift either don't use one - like me - or don't post for something that is, for use, about as complicated as installing headlights. Not trying to be rude or harsh - body lifts just aren't rocket science. Especially if you keep it to 1-1.5" or so.

What you need to do is jack your Sport up and take a good LONG look at everything underneath. Then you need to get a set of factory service manuals (FSMs) for YOUR vehicle and go through them ONE PAGE AT A TIME. Do that a couple times. You can go back to your vehicle when you're stumped or need clarification and take a look at the actual thing. Everything you'll need to touch is documented with pictures in the FSMs.

I'm suggesting this because questions like 'Then replace factory blocks with longer ones or are there none there' tell me you haven't even looked under your vehicle. You are absolutely not ready to start a project like this if you don't know what's already there.

Again, not trying to be rude or abusive, but I've seen a lot of project started and never finished because someone got in WAY over their heads.

Edward

[redraif]

You are not being rude at all. I have not been under the rig is about 2 years. I tried looking this past weekend and realized the mud was so caked on that it was gonna take a weekend with a hose before I could make heads or tails of anything. Not to mention I was trying to make a judgement call regarding whether the bolts are going to be seized due to the trucks lack of maintenance with the prior owner. It's a southern car, so that's good. Do these body bolts tend to seize up or are they usually are none issue?

I did see that you access both sides, nut & bolt style via the cabin under the carpet, on other Monteros. If the ms is the same this should mitigate the rust and full seizing I was paranoid about. Nothing worse then dealing with a welded nut breaking free.

Funny cause I didn't even need to read about lowering the spouses 03 stang. Just looked and knew after watching a friend show me once on my 87 firebird. Lol. Like I said used to lowering not raising...

I will get my hands on the fsm and absorb.

[redraif]

Did more research today. Praying mine is as easy as the older non sports I have seen. Finally found a thread on the body lift from 4crawler. His was a wide body full size. The fellow had some pics in his build thread. If its that staight forward it will be smooth sailing. Getting my confidence up is all. I just needed to see it laid out with a few pics..

Pooling Edwards response from General here to be a better repository:
msport97.proboards.com/thread/10737/montero-sport-owner-problems-lift

Dec 15, 2014 17:57:33 GMT -5 ES_97Sport said:

Dec 13, 2014 23:39:24 GMT -5 redraif said:

Hello everyone.

Welcome!

Just before my daughter decided she did not want the rig, she let her x-boyfriend drive the SUV into 3 feet of mud. It got stuck and had to be pulled out with a wrecker. Of course they never cleaned off the mud either. She also left us with a check engine light for the transmission (aka won't pass emissions). It can't be tagged or sold till it's fixed.

Ouch!

...While it's there I want to sort out its other issue.... tires! I hope to install something this Saturday. Yes I have searched, but have just gotten more confused.

We have Bald cracking tires: PO had 235/70 r16 on it. From what I have read it comes with 255/70 r16s. If I have to replace the tires, I want to take it wider and taller. At stock ride height and with the stock 16in rims, how tall and wide can you go without rubbing. ...

In searching, I have gotten more confused then not, due to folks discussing 31 32 and 33's on 15 inch rims. I just need normal tire sizes... lol. From what I have seen in searching The general consensus is 265/75r16 will fit on factory 16s with factory ride height? Yes? But what if I want bigger? Plus there is nothing available used in this size.

I must say.... For now this will be a hwy pavement only rig. Once money is a bit looser, I will commit to setting it up for some fun on other surfaces. Aka Proper lift to body and suspension.

Ok. This is my site. Go to "Tools, Gear->Calculate Gear Ratio, Tire Size, etc.->Convert Metric tire to Standard" (last calculator on the page) This might help when translating between flotation and metric.

Calculators ...

The stock number you quoted is 30" in flotation. The 265s are almost 32"s. 31.65". If I remember correctly - and I can't check since my '03 is at home today - this is what I run on mine. They fit well, with no contact even off road and they're not so big that they'll tank your gas mileage or cause accelerated drive train wear issues. If you're planning on a dual purpose vehicle, then I'd stick with this size in an A/T.

Specifically, I'd choose the Yokohama Geolandar A/T-S. They're reasonably priced, wear well and evenly and if you decide to take it off road, they're extremely capable. I don't know if this is an issue there, but they're also very good snow/slush tires. I've run these for years on stock or mostly stock Sports and currently have them on both my stock '97 LS 3.0L and my '03 Limited AWD 3.5L - both of which have been off road with these tire in Moab so I know very well how these tire behave.

Tirerack - Yoko Geolander A/T-S

BTW, flotation, i.e. 31", 32", 35", ARE normal tire sizes. Been around a lot longer than P metric and in the off road world, this is ALL you will see. Best get acquainted with these sizes.

I have seen some folks mention 285/75r16s? I love the look. Most have a lift with it though, which I dont. I even remember someone say they installed them with the body lifted only.

285x75R16 is just under a 33". 32.83". Might as well call it a 33". With a 1.5-2" body lift these will most certainly fit.

So can anyone say if the 285 will work on pavement driving only with stock ride height? Where does rubbing occur when this size is on the rig at stock height? How bad is it? See I can get this size used and will jump on it if I can make it work. Plus I really want something this size. I tried to talk the wife into going for used on a smaller temporarily, but was told.... we are not doing this twice. Get one set, used, one time, to last! So I'm pushing 285...

Someone on here might correct me, but I'm pretty sure these will not work on a stock setup. The problem will be in the front. How bit of a problem is going to depend on your vehicle. All Sports - and I know this sounds stupid - are not created equal. I know that there's no way these would fit on my '03, even though there isn't any difference in the body or drive train between '00 and '05. My 3.5L Limited  AWD sits lower than say a 3.0L LS.

If it scrubs at 'lock to lock' will a 1.5 in hubcentric spacer alleviate this? I think i can talk her into a set. Where else might rub? Will just a bumper trim fix any rubs up front? Are we talking dangerous rub (puncture tire, rip off or bend fender) or just annoying (noises and wear) Again it's not going off road at all!

Problems are going to be clearing the rear bottom of the well and the front fascia. So, body clearance is really the problem. Wheel spacers won't fix this.

BTW, wheel spacers are not really a good idea in the first place for their own reasons. No one should be recommending them.

If the spacers won't make it work, can I simply do a 2in body lift? Folks have made that sound reasonable. Like under $150. Any diy on doing it?

First, yes, a couple hundred would do a body lift if you were going to do ALL the work. If you do a body lift, go with the minimum height necessary to get what you want. If it takes 1" - do a 1". Don't do a 2" just 'cause. The taller the body lift the more problems you're going to create for yourself.

A 1"-1.5" will be reasonably easy. The problem with doing body lifts on Japanese vehicles is the wiring. Everything is JUST ABOUT the exact length needed. They don't included inches of extra so if you go too high you have to start splicing wires. Unless you're very good with electrical automotive wiring, you don't want to go there. It introduces a load of extra work that has to be done EXACTLY CORRECT and if you screw up, you can end up chasing problems you may never find.

There isn't a Mitsu specific body lift. You will need to get the correct pucks out of another kit, for a Toyota for instance, and then get the correct bolts. I know some have gotten the 2" pucks and cut them down to 1.5". So, again, this is not a drop in, but it's doable.

I have seen folks mention pads for the rear and cranking torsion bars in the front. But no links to kits or parts or DIYs. Little help on this?

The bad news is there aren't but a couple suspension lift kits. OME and Iron Man are the only two I'm aware of and I don't know if Iron Man still makes theirs. There are no 'kits' for anything like body lifts, skid plates, etc. The ARB bull bar - the only bull bar/bumper still made - only fits the '97-'99. Mark still makes transfer case gears and I seem to remember he makes a set for your t-case. Asin (sp) makes manual locking hubs for the front (for non-AWD vehicles) for '97-'05. But, that pretty much sums up what's commercially available.

Skid plates are a custom job. Rock skids are either custom or semi custom. My usual technique for skids is to buy the '93 4-Runner set from All-Pro in SoCal without legs and have them fitted with legs and welded to the chassis locally.

Leaf springs are available semi-custom from Alcan here in Grand Junction, CO, based on my work with them over the years. There isn't anyone here in the US that specifically makes lifted coil springs for the Montero or Montero Sport. You CAN have several spring manufacturers custom twist a set of coils (Alcan no longer does coils). You can also get springs that will fit - you just have to have the dimensions and rate. Someone chip in - I can't remember who's supplying higher rate torsion bars now, but their available.

There's a lot more info available on 4x4 Wire regarding the coil springs. The Montero guys have been dealing with coils a LOT longer than us Sport people.

Browse here - www.4x4extremesports.com/. There's a bunch of stuff including tightening up the torsion bars. Look for my posts 'ES_97Sport' - I try to include as much info as I can when responding so a lot of the last couple years of threads will address almost everything you can imagine on a Sport.

Yes, people have installed spacers under the coil springs in the rear. I don't know what the spacers dimensions are but someone on here can chime in. I deal mostly with '97-'99 when it comes to the suspension which are leaf in the back, so I don't pay much attention to the details of measurements and such.

I have seen reference to the OME kit. This is a suspension lift right? Different from a body lift?

That's correct. The OME kit is a suspensions lift. A suspension lift raises the vehicle by changing the suspension. In the case of Sports, it includes a taller set of rear coil (or leaf) springs and either a new set of front torsion bars OR tightening up the existing front torsion bars to raise the body/chassis in relation to the wheel.

A body lift raises JUST THE BODY in relation to the chassis (frame). 'Pucks' of some length are inserted between the body and body mounts on the frame. This lifts the body away from (up) the frame thereby increasing the clearance between the wheels and the body.

A suspension lift increases clearance under the chassis and suspension members. This is good as Sports don't have much clearance under the front IFS cross member. However, the method of a suspension lift on Sports has the unfortunate side effect of increasing the spring rate in the front which inhibits wheel compression. That means you loose articulation in the front - not a good thing. Increasing the spring rate also will change the ride of the vehicle - specifically in the front. Unless you have a bull bar and winch to kinda even things out, the front can get pretty stiff and choppy.

A body lift raises the body but leaves the chassis and suspension EXACTLY where it was. This is great for fitting bigger tires and doesn't affect the 'ride' of the vehicle at all. Unfortunately, it doesn't increase ground clearance for the chassis and front suspension at all which doesn't make it practical by itself for off road use.

Both will change the COG (center of gravity) which will affect how the vehicle handles both on (curves, etc.) and off road (off camber). I've never done the measurements on a stock (or mostly stock) Sport. In theory suspension lifts are worse for handling as they move the COG up (vertically) further than a body lift in relation to the amount of lift. This theory is assumes that you don't have a vehicle with a body that weights more than a small planet. Sports are VERY heavy and a very good chunk of that is body, so this may be 6s in the end. But, its something to know, especially if you go to a very tall sidewall tire.

You will NOT be driving a sports car with 33" tires and a body/suspension lift. My DD is a '97 LS Sport with a SAS on 35x12.5x15"s and 25" if ground clearance under the frame and I'd rather drive it than my stock Sports, but you DO NOT start jerking it around or you'll end up on your roof. My experience has been that wives don't like vehicles that they have to pay attention to and actually know how to drive. Just a "FYI" moment.

Anyway, in a perfect world, you would want both. An OME suspension lift with a 1-1.5" body lift would allow you to run a 33" easily while still having half way decent articulation in the front and decent "ride" quality.

Just for the street, however, I'd pick the body lift. Just enough to fit the tires.

The price tag is a bit steep right now. $810.00 for heavy duty. Yipes! It's just with all the current repairs and needing new tires, the budget is not there for it.

Yep, not cheap.

Edward

Another:

Dec 17, 2014 17:35:10 GMT -5 ES_97Sport said:

Dec 15, 2014 23:06:34 GMT -5 redraif said:

...I hoped the floatation measurements were as simple as you stated, but I did not want to assume. ...

Yea, dealing with this in flotation is a lot simpler than P metric.

You mention the toyota kit to rob from for the body lift. Is there a particular Toyota body lift Kit to use? Any suv, any year? I will check with summit or would ebay or Amazon be cheaper?

Hoping the body bolts are simlar to what I have seen on 4x4wire with the older units. Hopefully nothing is seized due to age and lack of maintenance. These things have not been touched and we are are at 243000. Is it common to have issues with removal when the rigs get older?

Bolts are easy. At the worst you can find a place that sells metric bolts in grade 5 or 8. Get the correct size and go from there. We have a place here in Denver that does nothing but sell metric fasteners. BTW, do NOT buy them from Home Depot, Lowes, a random hardware store, etc. These need to be high quality bolts - not cheap junk from China.

I don't remember off the top of my head. I know the thread is still on 4x4 Wire.

Its common with ANY vehicle as it gets older. Getting the mount bolts out of my '68 'Bird after about 150K was unpleasant. A large 1/2" breaker bar will probably be necessary. Also, a tap to clean the threads before re-installing the bolts and a good, quality torque wrench. This is really a two person job.

I did see it stated that I need to pull off the running boards. Can they be reattached after? Or will I need blocks for their mounting points as well?

You need to pull the running boards/nerf bars to get to the body mounts in center of the vehicle. If I remember correctly - and it's been a LONG time since I've had to dink with the stock nerf bars - they attach only to the body. In which case you can re-install them once the body lift is done.

I would suggest leaving them off and making your second project a set of rock skids. They're not just for off road. A good solid set of skids welded on to the frame goes a long way towards protecting the body from stupid people with doors and shopping carts.

... I did download a FSM to read. I should get this guy home this weekend and be able to start cleaning and poking around. If summit has a kit and I'm motivated...

See my post on the FSM thread a few below yours. The electronic ones should be ok for this in a very general way. Get on eBay and find a complete set of original paper FSMs.

Edward

[redraif]

To help others who might happen upon my thread. Here is some good info related to alot of what I had questions about.

www.4x4wire.com/mitsubishi/tech/minutemods/torsion_bar/

www.4x4wire.com/mitsubishi/tech/valley_springs/

www.4x4wire.com/mitsubishi/reviews/ome/

On 4x4 wire a Montero guy said that he used 2" coil spring spacers from a Sequoia, part # Rancho RS70081, to get two more inches of lift in the rear. He reports he trimmed a little in the middle so it sits better on the top to the body. He did have to go longer on the shocks with the spacer in. Used shocks from a Bronco 83-96.
These are for teh full size older Monteros... not sure if there is something for us (sports)

www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=1253736&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1
www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=1239851&an=&page=&vc=1
www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=1179859&page=0&fpart=2&vc=1
www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/28207-1998-(Gen-II)-Montero-Suspension-Lift-Kit

Now to figure out if this coil insert will work on a sport... Are the sport springs and full size springs the same ID and OD?
No one there who has posted knows.

I asked here and got info on a DIY body lift:
www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=1290791&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1

Here is some info on 4crawler' body lift from there: (Full size Montero) They reference gen1, gen2 and a build thread of a gen2.5. Not sure if any of this will relate back to a sport, but I aim to find out!

www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=1288160&an=&page=&vc=1

they reference this thread which had some great pictures from a body lift install. Enough to help me understand. (post #10)
www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/72692-Eurosonic-s-Montero-2-5Gen-Build-Thread?highlight=Eurosonic%27s+Montero+2.5Gen+Build+Thread

Here is another thread with an older full size with pics. I was told in this thread that we (sports) are based on the Mitsu truck frame not sold in North America.
www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=1141520&page=0&fpart=4&vc=1

Ok thats the highlights of my finds from 4x4wire. At least it cleared my understanding of things. Now to circle around and find out if any can work with the sports.

[redraif]

So I got a brief minute to look up under the Monty last week after I picked it up from the shop. The front most body mount... I noticed it had some rubber already in there btw the body and frame mount. About an inch. It was raining, so this was the only one I had a chance to look at. Then in the AM when I went to look some more, I noticed a nice 9in circle of tranny fluid on the ground. So straight back to the shop. So that was as far as my research got.

Does the sport come with rubber in the mounts stock or has the previous owner done some lifting already?

Here is how it sits...

[ES_97Sport]

Dec 22, 2014 8:55:13 GMT -5 redraif said:

... Does the sport come with rubber in the mounts stock or has the previous owner done some lifting already? ....

Body mounts are not solid metal pieces. The design differs but they use an insulator typically of rubber, polyurethane, or something like that. They're designed in such a way as to insulate the body from the chassis. They insulate the body from vibration and noise as well as allow some 'flex' between the body and chassis to prevent cracking and breakage of the body, frame, body and frame mounts.

Edward

[redraif]

Thanks Edward! I will be glad when I can get this beast back so I can actually spend some time looking at it with the manual.

[redraif]

Anyone know which toyota kit is best? Nothing lists what the block diameters are? Will 3in wide blocks be too wide diameter wise? I know 4 crawler has the ultimate 2.5 inch wide. Should I get a Toyota kit or go with individual blocks and get my own hardware. Was not sure since the cost was so close that getting the kit might give me "some" useable hardware. Looks like if I go with the blocks alone (2x2) it will be 79 plus tax, where as the kit gives at least 10 blocks and hardware for 99 plus tax. Is the price worth the extras?

Thoughts?

This is all I have found in searching:
msport97.proboards.com/thread/5199/1-2-inch-body-lift

And I was playing with the idea of the Sequoia 2inch spacers, part # Rancho RS70081, in the rear. But no one knows if these will work on our springs. I hate to throw money on something that probably is the wrong size. So I have few other ideas I was toying with. I think I might go this route.... to start with.
the 2inch version: (might stay in place better due to thickness. with the fact that I'm sagging already due to age it might give 1.5 or so.) at least it can be cut/trimmed to ensure fitment
www.pepboys.com/product/details/951906/00745/performance/suspension/coil_spring_boosters_spacers

the one inch version: (don't think this would make a noticible differene and ther is more chance of them falling out cause of the thinness.)
www.pepboys.com/product/details/271374/00745/performance/suspension/coil_spring_boosters_spacers

I know there are mixed opinions on these, but if I zip tie them in and run them all the way to the top of the spring (still in the coils) I think they will stay stationary. I'm sure with 239,000 miles I'm sitting on sagging springs anyway. Then I will get some measurements when I fit them in to see what size spacer I need to ultimately locate a top spring seat style. I just can't tell with things together what size spring and what room is in the upper perch to even fit a spacer. There are a few options, if I can dial in a size and check cross compatibility. Then when the $ frees up I will do and proper 2 in suspension lift with OME springs and HD shocks. Seems this uncharted territory for a sport, so I want to at least give it a shot to see if it can work. Don't know till you try. Again this is presently not a trail rig. I'm not advocating this style of lift for a truck that could articulate so much that the spacer could come unseated when the spring gets unsprung. But it would be nice to offer folks some ideas of routes they can go.

[ES_97Sport]

Dec 24, 2014 13:41:09 GMT -5 redraif said:

...the one inch version: (don't think this would make a noticible differene and ther is more chance of them falling out cause of the thinness.)
www.pepboys.com/product/details/271374/00745/performance/suspension/coil_spring_boosters_spacers

I know there are mixed opinions on these, but if I zip tie them in and run them all the way to the top of the spring (still in the coils) I think they will stay stationary. ....

Spring pads do not go between the coils. The spring is removed, the pad set in the bed, and the spring re-installed on top of the pad.

There is no way, nor any need - at least in your case - to 'retain' the spring pad independently, as the installed spring does that on its own.

Lastly, you DO NOT 'zip tie' suspension parts onto your vehicle or together on your vehicle. Zip ties barely last under a vehicle holding wiring and hoses. You !!!DO NOT EVER!!! attach things to coil springs! With zip ties or otherwise. It doesn't matter if this is a 'street' vehicle or a off-road buggy.

Leaf springs are bad, but coil springs are flat out dangerous if you don't understand what you're messing with. There is an enormous amount of stored energy in a coil spring. People have been killed installing and uninstalling coil springs. And, if you screw up (God forbid) messing with those and one comes out on the highway or a curve, you're going to loose control and roll and probably take out a few others in the process.

Edward

[redraif]

This style is designed to go between coils. In fact instruction state "Slit for cutting to fit and winding into the middle of the coil to help restore sagging springs.
Do not attempt to place this item at the bottom of the coil. This could cause injury or death."

Its for old saggy springs to keep them from condensing as far. It's a "H" shape. It's not a spacer lift pad that goes between body and spring aka isolator or "U" shape. I am going to look at them tomorrow to get a better idea. Yes it's a temp mod just to see if it might work.

The sequoia style is the isolator style. I just can't get diameter info to cross reference to get a isolator style. I plan to research the isolator style further to find one that will work. It would be ideal if I could find a rubber style that can be trimmed to work on multiple diameters. I just need to get a used set of springs from the junk yard and take them to summit and do some test fitting to match diameters. Then compare what option will mate with our spring seat.
So far I am thinking these might do the trick... as poly I could slice them to adjust diameter.
m.summitracing.com/parts/ens-2-6102g/none/images


In dealing with springs I done quite a few swaps so I understand the stored energy. I tied / strapped off my stock fiero ones to be sure I didn't get a face or finger full of spring. After meeting someone who almost lost half his fingers I don't use coil condenser tools either. I will be very careful with whatever style I find that will work.

[redraif]

For my body lift.... here is what I'm debating. It did not post correctly in this thread so I'm quoting it from my other thread.

Dec 22, 2014 9:57:27 GMT -5 redraif said:

So I was looking on Summit. Thinking I could round up parts quick to work on the rig while I was on xmas & new years vacation. They are local here in GA. I live 15 minutes away. Here are some of the spacers I have found. If these won't work I will go with 4crawler.

individuals:

2inch diameter & 2 inch lift
www.summitracing.com/parts/pra-mb02

3inch diameter & 2 inch lift
www.summitracing.com/parts/pra-bb02


Kit
2 inch lift toyota 4 runner 86-89 (10 mounts)
www.summitracing.com/parts/pra-5082

I think I will go with whatever is in stock... and go from there.

[ES_97Sport]

Dec 30, 2014 23:31:36 GMT -5 redraif said:

This style is designed to go between coils. In fact instruction state "Slit for cutting to fit and winding into the middle of the coil to help restore sagging springs.
Do not attempt to place this item at the bottom of the coil. This could cause injury or death."

I know what these are 'supposed' to do. There are many revisions of this idea floating around and have been since before I was born. Stupid idea in the '60 ... still a stupid idea.

These will stress the spring coils. They decrease the amount of spring compression travel and contribute to a harsh ride as well as decrease the lifespan of the springs. Installing these can create an artificial bump stop with your springs and spring hardware taking the stress instead of the bump stops and frame - resulting in broken coils. Off road, they are prone to falling out when the springs are extended. In fact, I've seen and heard of them coming out driving over a curb.

You do NOT use spacers that fit between the coils for any reason. Ever. Not even 'just to see'. It takes very little to break a coil. It shouldn't even be legal to sell these things.

Edward

[redraif]

Dec 31, 2014 15:39:30 GMT -5 ES_97Sport said:

I know what these are 'supposed' to do. There are many revisions of this idea floating around and have been since before I was born. Stupid idea in the '60 ... still a stupid idea.

These will stress the spring coils. They decrease the amount of spring compression travel and contribute to a harsh ride as well as decrease the lifespan of the springs. Installing these can create an artificial bump stop with your springs and spring hardware taking the stress instead of the bump stops and frame - resulting in broken coils. Off road, they are prone to falling out when the springs are extended. In fact, I've seen and heard of them coming out driving over a curb.

You do NOT use spacers that fit between the coils for any reason. Ever. Not even 'just to see'. It takes very little to break a coil. It shouldn't even be legal to sell these things.

Edward

OK, I see your point here. I will focus on the spacer idea (isolator style) and see if I can match something up to the sport springs. There were a few at the local bone yards. Maybe I can get a set to experiment with for cheap. By experiment I mean take them to summit racing and have them pull various spacers for other vehicles and fit them to the coil. If I can get something in rubber or urathane it could be trimmed to custom fit even.

But on a side note....

2 inch body lift is COMPLETE!

I opted to purchase my lift blocks from Summit. A. Summit is local and B.I do not have a drill press to accurately make my own. I was looking at the toyota kit, but it was on back order till 1/19/15. So no go there. I wanted to do the lift over the Holiday. So instead I went with the individual body blocks, as they were in stock. For a total of 10 mounts on the 2001 Montero Sport:
6 of the 3inch diameter to go under the cab (A, B & C-Pillers) BB02 (2 H x3 OD) @ $9.97
www.summitracing.com/parts/pra-bb02
4 of the 2 inch diameter for the nose and tail mounts. Part numbers MB02 (2 H x2 OD) @ $7.97
www.summitracing.com/parts/pra-mb02

I then searched online and found a cheaper price. Summit will price match BTW.
Truckprousa.com had them for $4.99 (bb02)
truckprousa.com/i-6726582-performance-accessories-replacement-body-lift-spacer-bb02.html
and $3.99 (mb02)
truckprousa.com/i-6726548-performance-accessories-replacement-body-lift-spacer-mb02.html
= $45.90 plus $14.70 SH to my door.
Total $60.60

So Summit did the price match (factored in the shipping as if I ordered from Truckpro). The final price was $59.00 plus local taxes.
So my initial cost of 91.70 plus tax went down to $59.00 plus tax... NOT bad. and they were in stock!

So I took it slow and easy. 2 days later and had them installed.
(cleaning under and interior, plus 5 hours of hardware locating.... lots of theiving has happened of grade 8 bolts at the local stores. I had to go to 4 stores before I had enough.)

Pics for size reference...

The 2 inch blocks...


Now the 3 inch..



Now I can run the 285/75 r16s If all goes according to plan I will get them tonight and have them installed tomorrow!


I took tons of pics and plan to do a write up in the near future to help those with all the questions I had when I started this process. Again its alot for someone who has zero experience with 4x4's or trucks period. I have lowered 3 cars, including a custom conversion to coil-overs, but have never raised anything. :/

[justinw46]

I cranked my torsion bars down about 3/4 of the way, put a 2in body lift and 1in 1/2 wheel adaptors and I fit 285 75 16 with minimal scrub.