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2001 XLS
Mar 31, 2015 20:33:19 GMT -5
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Post by dirk on Mar 31, 2015 20:33:19 GMT -5
Yeah one of my coworkers is also an amsoil dealer made it easier to get my hands on the stuff, and the mitsu tech said yeah that would be perfect
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2001 XLS
Mar 31, 2015 20:50:01 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by dirk on Mar 31, 2015 20:50:01 GMT -5
Do you get better MPG with the bigger tires? I'm contemplating slightly larger tires. Nothing major and hoping the K&N filter and a new exhaust beyond the cat would off set the slight decrease in acceleration. I know changing the transmission differentials and transfer case fluids made a noticeable increase in MPG.
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Post by ES_97Sport on Apr 1, 2015 15:31:11 GMT -5
Do you get better MPG with the bigger tires? I'm contemplating slightly larger tires. Nothing major and hoping the K&N filter and a new exhaust beyond the cat would off set the slight decrease in acceleration. I know changing the transmission differentials and transfer case fluids made a noticeable increase in MPG. No, that never happens. More weight, rolling resistance, less aerodynamic, so the mileage goes down. It may not go down MUCH, it might not even be noticeable, but it does go down. All you can do is minimize the decrease by choosing a minimum size and design that's sufficient for your needs. For instance, 90% of the time I could live with a 33"x10.5" A/T which would improve my mileage considerably, but I need a 35"x12.5" M/T the other 10% and that 10% is spread all over throughout the year and I don't ever know when I'll need that size. So, I stick with the most efficient M/T that suits my purposes I can find. Did you install the factory K&N replacement? That's not going to so you any good at all. Either the K&N 3000GT FIPK kit with a pipe or the Injen Sport setup. The box is the problem, not the filter. 2.25" CAT-back will help considerably. Don't go any bigger or you'll go backwards on the performance. The exhaust with the filter kit will help a good chunk. If you can - don't remember if you have AWD - get a set of manual locking hubs for the front along with a steering stabilizer. Several companies make kits. I used Rancho RS5000s. Don't think much of the new China stuff, but their mount kit is pretty generic. Get the kit and find a stabilizer you like that fits. They're pretty generic so there's a boat load to choose from. The stabilizer will help retain the factory steering feel if you install and unlock the hubs. I REALLY didn't like the feel without the stabilizer. Way too lite for me. The hubs will make a HUGE difference in your mileage. The front drive line assembly has a lot of mass and a lot of resistance. Changing to synthetic in the front diff won't change that - that only helps when the front is engaged and in 4WD. Superwinch no longer makes the hubs but there is at least one other manufacturer that made/makes them. Keep an eye on eBay for Superwinch Montero hubs - that's what ours take. They never did list them for the Sport. Yea, the synthetic makes a big difference. I just had a new JK 44 Dynatrac installed a couple weeks ago in the rear of the big Sport. I broke it in with regular diff lube. I thought for sure they installed the wrong gears at Dynatrac - 4.90s or 5.13s instead of the 5.38s I run. Thing wouldn't go up hill. Horrible. Put 600 miles on for break-in, changed to Amsoil and its all back to normal. I'd forgotten how much of a difference there is between the same weight regular lube and full synthetic. I can't imagine what it would be like to try to drive my big Sport even with the 3.5L if everything was standard gear lube. Wouldn't be able to get out of the driveway. Have to check into that. Do you know if its synthetic or standard petroleum? Edward
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Post by dirk on Apr 1, 2015 19:05:50 GMT -5
AMSOIL PS fluid is synthetic
Yeah the K&N filter was just the drop in filter that uses the current stock box. I was scared to go with a full Cold Air set up since I was new to mechanical things on a vehicle when I got it, it was my first "upgrade" from stock LOL
I am sorry if I seem a little un-knowledgeable I try to do a lot of research B4 doing anything. But what is a FIPK from the 3000GT and is it the same on the dodge stealth? As for the box I have been looking at trying to fabricate something that would actually seal to the hood with a gasket and install a hood scoop so it was always fresh air being pulled in and not from under the hood. I always noticed it being extremely warm under the hood after a drive with the beast. I am not sure about this summer since I have done all this work, it is still below freezing here in upstate NY.
Mine isn't the AWD model that was the following year. Mine is the RWD with the shifter to 4HI and 4LO. And yeah I am dying to do the manual locking hubs up front. I have new Brake pads, Rotors, seals, bearings synthetic grease,and Brake Fluid to put into it already (my air hockey table is my work bench currently).Changing to manual hubs now would be prime time. My fiance is annoyed with all my piles of projects to do LOL I don't even know where to start with the stabilizer though, if it is something I can do myself or need professionally done I would need to research a bit more.
And not sure what the stock exhaust is on it, but I have read a ton of posts with explanations on why larger exhausts are bad with these engine. Those posts saved me from making a huge mistake right off the bat I almost tried to have a custom dual exhaust put on with like a 2.5 to 3 inch pipes. I am leaning towards going to 2.25 and yeah not messing with any exhaust changes from the cats forward. I don't want to mess with the California emissions stuff. And for muffler I am leaning toward the Hushmaster. I am looking for something that is super queit when under normal driving and idle, but less restrictive and ok with it being louder when under hard acceleration.
As for tires I am thinking of getting new rims at same time and keep the stock ones for winter tires. I rarely go off road, aminly back and forth to work but have a sand/gravel driveway that is uphill from road to my house. And we get lots of snow and ice. I still have the tires that came on my vehicle which have been pretty good and just recently are loosing a bit of sipes for snow grip. They are only 245/75R16s stock I know are 255/70R16s so mine are about same circumference but slightly narrower. They are Firestone WinterForce Mud and Snows. Up till now they have provided plenty of winter traction, and fairly quiet till above 60. If I get new rim/tires I would like to go back to the 255s on the stock rims for winter, and more of a highway/rain tread and maybe 17 or 18 inch rims for summer, figure a tad less tire/sidewall flex. As for size I was only going to go up maybe 1 size in overall circumferance. Mainly because of how high the engine revs at 55+ MPH speeds.
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Post by dirk on Apr 1, 2015 19:35:31 GMT -5
NM I googled FIPK, my bad it is just the K&N version of the Injen, I am assuming by the looks that the Injen intake needs less modifications. Which one is better of the 2? And how well does a CAI work when it is actually being fed warm air from under the hood?
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Post by ES_97Sport on Apr 6, 2015 17:51:21 GMT -5
NM I googled FIPK, my bad it is just the K&N version of the Injen, I am assuming by the looks that the Injen intake needs less modifications. Which one is better of the 2? And how well does a CAI work when it is actually being fed warm air from under the hood? Correct. K&N had theirs out long before Injen ever came along. As I pointed out, the FIPK kit you'd want is the one for the Mitsu N/A GT3000. All that includes is the filter, plate that mounts to the MAF and two stand-offs (that need to be modified somewhat). Probably add a K&N pre-filter to that list. You'll also need the rubber couplings and hose clamps - pipe to TB and MAF to pipe. The Injen and K&N are not cold air inductions. Never were, never were meant to be. Personally I prefer the K&N FIPK and pipe over the Injen complete kit. That preference has a lot more to do with the flexibility of fitting everything how you want it rather than being stuck with how someone else thought it'd work best. If you look a the pics of my engine bay and the pics of Eric's '98 with the Injen you'll see there's quite a bit of difference in where the air filter ended up and how the pipe is routed. I have mine tucked away differently. There is - IF ANY - very little difference in performance between the two locations or pipes and none is noticeable. The pipes are both aluminum - no benefit ether way there. The couplings I bought are better quality than what Injen ships. Benefit of doing it yourself - you get to pick your parts. The ones I purchased are also stiffer which is nice - less likely to tear under hard jostling which my big Sport gets a lot of. I have an entire set of Injen couplings I've never used because I don't trust them to hold up long term. The MAF plate is different between the K&N and Injen. The Injen uses a round filter rather than the oval that K&N uses so the plates are a little different in design. IMHO, the K&N plate and filter is a better design. I've never done the math, but I believe the surface area of the oval K&N is greater than the Injen. Both filters when clean will flow WAY more air than a N/A 3.0L or 3.5L can ingest. However, as the filter gets dirty, you need more surface area to flow the same amount of air, so in theory you'd be better off with the filter that has the most surface area. I can tell you from experience that this is correct, however, I've never had a filter get dirty enough on a car/truck for the small difference between Injen and K&N to have made a difference. If I were dirt track racing I'd most certainly vote for the one with the most surface area, but for a street/trail vehicle ... not enough difference to convince me to pick one over the other. I have a personal preference for K&N filters. I've run them on dirt bikes, trail bikes, street cars/trucks, road race cars and trail/expedition rigs here in CO and UT. I've never, ever had a problem with one on anything so like I said, I have a preference. In truth, Eric never had a problem with his Injen nor have I heard of anyone having a legitimate issue. Cotton gauze filters are awesome if you take care of them and keep them oiled correctly. If you don't you're screwed. Any cotton gauze filter that isn't maintained and oiled correctly will allow grit into your engine and that can kill an engine within a few 10s of thousands of miles. So, I don't think there's anything there to recommend one over the other, either. Maybe someone with more Injen experience can speak up. If I were picking I'd take a good hard look at what size dust particles it'll filter and whether I could get a good pre-filter for it. As for sucking hot air ... well, that's a problem. Yes, the entire setup is less effective than a cold air induction setup. Ideally you would NOT want the air entering the intake to be engine bay temp. However, there are good reasons for choosing less performance and having the filter in the bay. Primarily, its simple. A cold air induction needs protection from water - you can't have rain blowing into the intake and hitting the filter. The filter 'oil' is biodegradable and water will wash it out and your filter will no longer filter. If you saturate the gauze and then suck air through the filter, that will cause holes in the gauze. If enough water is sucked into the intake you run the risk of damaging the engine through hydro-locking the cylinders. If you're in a location where the temps vary wildly (i.e. CO) you also don't want to suck sub-zero air into the engine all the time so you need some way to either not have it during the winter months OR enable/disable it at warm-up. Nothing here is impossible to work around but it might be more of a PITA than the loss of performance. In a trail rig, you want simple so everything is easy and quick to work on. And, you want protected - protected from mud, dirt, water, snow, etc. A well sealed engine bay takes a lot of the work out of protecting your intake and does double duty protecting all your wiring connectors and electronics in the bay as well. My preference is to not spend two hours disassembling my air intake every time i want to change a head light bulb. I have other things I'd like to spend my time on. The reality? It makes a difference. When it hits 70+ degrees I can feel the performance decrease. Its STILL not enough, though, to go backwards - the increase is still more than you loose. So, you'll have to choose how you want to do the intake. If I were running a strictly street truck, I might consider a good cold air induction. For the trail, I'd stick with what I have now. I hate snorkels - they're nothing but a liability on trails and there is NO proof that there's ANY increase in performance from them. Edward
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Post by ES_97Sport on Apr 6, 2015 18:25:59 GMT -5
... I am sorry if I seem a little un-knowledgeable I try to do a lot of research B4 doing anything. No worries! Don't know. I know the 3000GT uses the same MAF as our Sports so that's how I knew it fits. This can be installed with basic hand tools. So can the hubs. Socket set and boxed end wrenches. I installed mine in a couple hours. Very easy and simple mod. Bad with N/A engines. If we were running turbos or a supercharger, it'd be a different story. Exhaust gas scavenging is what counts here and 2.25" is right about spot on. Oh, good God. On a N/A engine? You wouldn't have gotten that thing up to highways speed. You don't need to touch ANYTHING forward of the rear main CAT. Or the CATs either. There's nothing wrong there and plenty you can seriously screw up. Like I said, this isn't a flow issue, its an issue of increasing the scavenging efficiency. The stock exhaust already flows more than the 3.0L or 3.5L can ingest. You need to speed up the velocity of the exhaust gas. I don't buy mufflers based on sound. As long as its not offensive and its legal, I'm good. I certainly won't sacrifice all the performance gains over one. As a rule of thumb, however, the quieter the muffler, the lower the performance. There are all kinds of hoops that manufacturers jump through to dampen sound and most of them result in a decrease in flow volume and/or velocity. Under absolutely NO circumstances EVER do you want to decrease gas velocity. You can decrease volume until you reach the upper limit of the air the engine can ingest pretty much with impunity, but if you hork up the velocity you are screwed. THAT is what increasing the pipe diameter beyond 2.25" does and that's why the bigger the diameter gets the worse the performance is. This one you'll have to make a personal call on. I wouldn't choose that muffler, but I'm not looking for 'super quiet', either. These are Japanese engines. They're DESIGNED to rev. 3-4K is nothing out of the ordinary and no, you are not going to damage the engine running at 3500 RPM for extended periods. If you start moving the operating RPM down you're going to mess with your performance and mileage. ESPECIALLY with the 3.0L. The 3.5L is a totally different geometry, but the 3.0L likes 3000-3500K in a M/T and 3K in the A/T. The 3.5L seems to do its best at 2800-3200K RPM. Even with all the mods we've been talking about this is still where these engines like to live. Something to think about. KIM, that 17-18" rims are going to put a lot more stress on your bearings, steering and suspension than 15" rims. Tire sidewalls are shock absorbers - in fact they absorb more than the springs do - and the shorter the sidewall the more energy gets transmitted into the connecting pieces. So, while those short side wall tires may look cool, be prepared to pay for them in maintenance costs on the rest of the vehicle. Forever. Edward
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2001 XLS
Apr 7, 2015 10:25:08 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by dirk on Apr 7, 2015 10:25:08 GMT -5
I was seriously looking for a MT but ended up with a AT, TY for the info on rpm ranges. My only off road in is usually driving across the yard when the old lady gets her corolla S stuck in the driveway and I don't have time to dig it out b4 work . I'll probably stick with the stock size rims then. Probably have my buddy do a nice powder coat though on them. Do them one at a time as time permits since I do have the fifth rim But will go back to the stock size, the narrower tires look a little to sunken into the wells.
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Post by ES_97Sport on Apr 8, 2015 14:31:30 GMT -5
I was seriously looking for a MT but ended up with a AT, ... I'll probably stick with the stock size rims then. Probably have my buddy do a nice powder coat though on them. Do them one at a time as time permits since I do have the fifth rim But will go back to the stock size, the narrower tires look a little to sunken into the wells. I love the M/Ts and hate the A/Ts. I really wish they'd done a 3.5L M/T. REALLY wakes that engine up! But, the M/Ts are really hard to find. Not very many made. You can go with a little wider tire on the stock rim without causing issues. I run a 35x12.5 on my 15"s specifically to protect the rims. There's a bit more bulge in the sidewall but it doesn't cause issues. I run one size up on my '03 Limited. Same thing. Just a bit more bulge. Look better, though, and it corrects the speedometer that's off with the stock tires. Edward
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Post by dirk on Apr 23, 2015 21:22:44 GMT -5
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Post by dirk on Apr 23, 2015 21:47:42 GMT -5
Also have another question about the cold air intakes, the injen kit, and the K&N kit are similarly priced. Edward you used the K&N and I have been doing alot of reading on your site and seen that it uses everything stock except the adapter plate, mount (which needs a little moddification), and the filter itself. And that you later added in the metal tube. After that you noticed a little more torque usable at lower RPMs. Correct? The ingen kit though comes all set to bolt on though? But the filter looks like a small bit less surface area do to shape/size? I have also seen alot of listings on ebay for intake kits for this vehicle that comes with a filter (that I am not sure I would trust) but at a much cheaper price, would buying one of those then buying the injen filter be cheaper and work just as well you think? The intake work will be my next task after the brakes upgrade. Also I am looking at going through and replacing every hose on the vehicle starting off with the vacuum system, most are pretty dry and stiff, already replaced the one for the cruise control. I was thinking about buying blue hoses if I can order some since then I would know exactly which ones I have and haven't replaced. I do these things on my spare time, sometimes that is 5 to 10 minutes with a flash light after everyone is in bed LOL Also are silicone tubes OK to use for vacuum lines since they may hold up to the heat under the hood, and the -20 F temps we get here. Also don't forget the tons of salt too Or just stick with rubber?
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Post by bdmontero on Apr 23, 2015 22:10:57 GMT -5
I feel your pain man about spare time. College and kids kill it quick! Lol. Aisin hubs can be found on eBay. Snatch them if you see a set. I did along time ago and LOVE LOVE THEM.
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Post by bdmontero on Apr 23, 2015 22:13:14 GMT -5
There is a set on eBay right now for 150. Type on Montero aisin.;D
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2001 XLS
Apr 24, 2015 10:27:22 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by dirk on Apr 24, 2015 10:27:22 GMT -5
146 a peice? Or was that for a pair
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Post by bdmontero on Apr 24, 2015 13:19:26 GMT -5
Pair
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