Post by redraif on Feb 10, 2015 17:09:04 GMT -5
If your Sport has spent a decent amount of time outside you have probably been plagued by the delaminating black paint around your windows like mine... YIPES! Seems all the Sports around town have this issue...
Mirrors
or the graying wiper arms,
or even the graying of the factory nerf style step bars.
Well today I'm going to show you how I gave my sport's trim a facelift…
Well you start with washing the whole rig. The last thing you want is to deal with contaminants getting into your paint surface. Now if you have delaminating like I did, you need to get as much of the flaking mess off the surface you are painting.
I had a plastic card, much like a credit card and it used it to scrape the loose stuff off.
Once I scraped loose what I could I choose to get the stubborn parts with a razor blade. I did not use it on the whole thing because I did not want to risk gouging the metal. When I did use the blade I used it on the edges and pulled the blade at and angle towards me, like buttering bread.
Next I moved on to a brass brush.
Now I moved on to the scuffing of the surface to help with paint adhesion. For simple scuff and shoots without repairs, I have combined 2 steps. I found it more efficient to actually wash and sand together. I use a red scotchbrite pad:
I specifically use Dawn as it will strip and oils and grease and give a good decontamination to the surface.
Combine and wet the pad…
I would not recommend it for anything but a basic scuff and shoot with a matte paint. If you want to get a smooth professional finish with a gloss paint, don't skimp and use real sand paper and get the surface as perfect as possible.
Wash/sand the surface… you can see how much the sanding is working loose.
Rinse it down:
Scuffed and ready: all the loose stuff removed...
The paint… Duplicolor Semi-gloss acrylic enamel
Tape up the area to be painted. I use blue so I can get it back off easier with less residue. A trick a painter taught me was to put down a tape line clean against all the edges. Then you don’t have to be as exact when you tape the paper down. Also if you need to change the paper you can without messing up the main edges.
Now add the paper, just be sure you have the edges all sealed tight to avoid overspray.
Time for paint:
Once dry you can peel the tape away:
SOOOO Much better:
The whole truck:
Before:
And after:
Before:
After:
Mirrors
or the graying wiper arms,
or even the graying of the factory nerf style step bars.
Well today I'm going to show you how I gave my sport's trim a facelift…
Well you start with washing the whole rig. The last thing you want is to deal with contaminants getting into your paint surface. Now if you have delaminating like I did, you need to get as much of the flaking mess off the surface you are painting.
I had a plastic card, much like a credit card and it used it to scrape the loose stuff off.
Once I scraped loose what I could I choose to get the stubborn parts with a razor blade. I did not use it on the whole thing because I did not want to risk gouging the metal. When I did use the blade I used it on the edges and pulled the blade at and angle towards me, like buttering bread.
Next I moved on to a brass brush.
Now I moved on to the scuffing of the surface to help with paint adhesion. For simple scuff and shoots without repairs, I have combined 2 steps. I found it more efficient to actually wash and sand together. I use a red scotchbrite pad:
I specifically use Dawn as it will strip and oils and grease and give a good decontamination to the surface.
Combine and wet the pad…
I would not recommend it for anything but a basic scuff and shoot with a matte paint. If you want to get a smooth professional finish with a gloss paint, don't skimp and use real sand paper and get the surface as perfect as possible.
Wash/sand the surface… you can see how much the sanding is working loose.
Rinse it down:
Scuffed and ready: all the loose stuff removed...
The paint… Duplicolor Semi-gloss acrylic enamel
Tape up the area to be painted. I use blue so I can get it back off easier with less residue. A trick a painter taught me was to put down a tape line clean against all the edges. Then you don’t have to be as exact when you tape the paper down. Also if you need to change the paper you can without messing up the main edges.
Now add the paper, just be sure you have the edges all sealed tight to avoid overspray.
Time for paint:
Once dry you can peel the tape away:
SOOOO Much better:
The whole truck:
Before:
And after:
Before:
After:
