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Post by r0llinlacs on Oct 25, 2015 11:48:27 GMT -5
Oh it's long gone. It flew somewhere and got lost. It's not in the engine. It's the stupid valve spring compressor tool, once you compress the spring so far, it's not perfectly even and the spring is compressed, so it slips and launches the retainer in the air like a catapult. I can't find the one I lost, it's in my mess of a garage somewhere.
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Post by jkdv8 on Oct 25, 2015 13:21:10 GMT -5
Glad to hear it's coming along good. Yea I'm not sure what they were thinking when designing the top half of these engines. It definitely wasn't for power Yea some of those tool rentals can be hit or miss. Most of the time it is the cheapest version of that particular tool. If the adapter has a flat base that rests on the head try using a rubber washer from a sink faucet to seal around it.
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Post by r0llinlacs on Nov 1, 2015 3:20:22 GMT -5
So I figured out that, if I tie a zip tie around the valve spring compressor tool and the spring, the spring won't slip out and launch the retainer at 500mph bouncing off of walls like a rubber ball. This helped tremendously, but I lost 2nd retainer before I tried the zip ties, and I only ordered two extra retainers so I can't lose any more. This job is quite a bit more difficult with the tools I'm using, I've had to modify the Auto-Zone rental valve spring compressor tool to work around the spark plug tubes, and have had to use the GM valve compressor tool where the regular valve compressor tool wouldn't fit. I also bought the Harbor Freight valve spring compressor tool but it was useless, except for a couple pieces we modded onto the Auto-Zone tool for a couple of difficult springs. It's been a hell of a figure-it-out-as-you-go kind of job. No tool is perfect for this job unless you remove the heads, or build your own valve spring compressor. There is too much stuff in the way without removing the heads, so don't take on this job unless you really have the confidence and know how, and the ability to problem solve and improvise and fabricate stuff because there are some valves with almost no room to fit a tool around. I'm talking millimeters of play in making the tool fit in the space, making ALL of the difference between getting the keepers locked in or not. After two Saturdays, I have 4 valves left to do, which are on the easy side compared to a couple other ones I've had to do, so the rest of the valve stem seals should be easy sailing once I get the extra keepers and retainers in the mail. But now I'm stuck on the leaky rear cam seal. I removed the plate and the gasket I received doesn't look anything like the gasket that's on the plate. The new gasket is stiff as a rock, I can't compress or stretch it and it has the same spring-type metal ring that the valve stem seals have, but the old gasket looks like a typical o-ring. The new gasket is also much thicker. My only guess is it's the wrong seal? Probably the front cam seal? No other gaskets in the kit I ordered look like gasket on the plate. Attachments:
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Post by pinstryper on Nov 1, 2015 9:36:47 GMT -5
Those are the ONLY seals to use, mitsu factory. The rear are The orings,
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Post by r0llinlacs on Nov 1, 2015 14:09:03 GMT -5
Those are the ONLY seals to use, mitsu factory. The rear are The orings, Thank you! Just ordered it.
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Post by bdmontero on Nov 1, 2015 14:29:36 GMT -5
Looks like they sent you the ones for the FRONT CAMS. The back ones are just orings.
Sent from my SM-N900V using proboards
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Post by r0llinlacs on Nov 1, 2015 17:03:17 GMT -5
Yeah, they were a part of the gasket kit I ordered. Apparently it only came with the front cam seals.
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Post by pinstryper on Nov 1, 2015 21:28:44 GMT -5
Don't use em, get mitsus, would hate to see a leak due to aftermarket seal.
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Post by r0llinlacs on Nov 2, 2015 16:56:57 GMT -5
Alright guys, got that one ordered, thanks for the help. Now I need to know what this thing is so I can buy a new one. The plastic was super brittle and it broke.
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Post by bdmontero on Nov 2, 2015 17:03:12 GMT -5
Crap that looks like the egr valve I think. Hard to tell from my phone. Sent from my SM-N900V using proboards
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Post by r0llinlacs on Nov 2, 2015 17:29:37 GMT -5
I found it. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.
MR299926, Vapor Canister Purge Solenoid
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Post by r0llinlacs on Nov 2, 2015 18:02:29 GMT -5
So it's looking like $50+ after shipping for a new one. I found a couple used ones I can get for $30, but they're off a 2000 Sport. The ad says compatible with 2000-2004 Montero Sport. They look the same and have the same part number, so it should work on my 98, right?
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Post by r0llinlacs on Nov 8, 2015 19:41:37 GMT -5
Finished the job today. It's now running perfect and purrs like a kitten. It smoked really bad at first but I drove it for a while and it went away. Hopefully it stays that way, will try to keep everybody updated on the smoking situation. I also painted the valve covers for no good reason, purely out of boredom. No good reason simply because you can barely see the darn things under the intake! Anyways, thanks to everybody that helped.
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Post by pinstryper on Nov 8, 2015 20:11:36 GMT -5
Congratulations, time may come soon when i will sympathize with you. Were the seals on the valves crunchy?
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Post by r0llinlacs on Nov 8, 2015 20:21:44 GMT -5
Thanks.
They were a huge pain in the *** to get off, and weren't really "crunchy". The rubber part of the seals were hard as a rock, but weren't really brittle, somehow. They didn't want to break. The only way to get them off was to finnagle and pry like there's no tomorrow. Pliers were useless.
Although, every other seal on the engine was toast. Hard as a rock and brittle. Definitely a job that needed done.
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