Changing differential fluid. diy is gone, so I have a few ?s

[redraif]

2001 3.0l sport 4x4 auto.

Just wanted to be sure I have the info right before I attempt this. I need GL-5 fluid for the front and rear differentials. I want to go synthetic. What would be the best weight for me to use in Georgia... we get pretty hot in the summers 90-100 with high humidity. Plus I have the new 285/75s on it (33ish) That's gonna make it work... it may or may not tow anything.

And yes I read the warnings... open the fill plug first to be sure it will open prior to the drain plug! where are both fill plugs, as the diy is not accessable?

The PO neglected this poor rig, so I plan do alot of work to be sure things are back in tip top shape. The front diff is leaking. I need to clean it to be sure, but I believe it's the drain plug. I did not notice before as we had so many other leaks masking it to this point. Its a very slow leak. Just a drip every now and again. If once I clean it up I determine it is the plug... I assume there is a crush washer or rubber washer on the plug? Can I get a replacement anywhere besides the dealer? Should I suspect the plug itself is bad? Again where do I source? If it's the diff cover, I use a gasket maker type product? Which one is best? How thick of a bead?

? Is there a magnet for particles? If there is... Where is it and should I clean it or leave it be unless I'm removing the cover...

Due to that leak I see the fluid is quite black. Again I'm assuming neglect so I want to be sure to clean out as much dirty fluid as I can before I put in the new synthetic stuff. Also my daughter allowed it in deep wet watery mud where it got stuck. Want to be sure it didn't seep in the diffs. No odd humming though!

Is there something I can spray in there to be sure I get any nasty out after the old has drained? Like brake cleaner? Or will this hurt internal components? What is best to clean it with?

Or Would it be better to instead get some cheap regular gear oil... light weight and swap that in as a rinse.... you know put in drive a few days and drain and then put in the good stuff? If so.... how many miles should I drive before I redrain?

Also.... considering my transmission vent was clogged with mud... the diff vents might be as well. Where are they located on front and back diffs so I can blow them out. Are they easily replaceable it I find them damaged?

Just being overly cautious before I dig in.

[ES_97Sport]

Mar 5, 2015 11:04:00 GMT -5 redraif said:

2001 3.0l sport 4x4 auto.

Just wanted to be sure I have the info right before I attempt this. I need GL-5 fluid for the front and rear differentials. I want to go synthetic. What would be the best weight for me to use in Georgia... we get pretty hot in the summers 90-100 with high humidity. Plus I have the new 285/75s on it (33ish) That's gonna make it work... it may or may not tow anything.

75W-90 is what goes in my stock Sports year around and my big Sport in the winter. I run a 75W-140 or 85W-140 for summer in my big Sport.

If you for sure knew you were going to tow on a regular basis, I'd go with a 75W-140. Otherwise, stick with a 75W-90 or 80W-90 full synthetic. No reason to waste gas when you don't have to. Don't let the 'multi-weigh' rating fool you - the 75-140 makes a difference when it gets cold. I've run both Royal Purple and Red Line and when they drop below 30-40 degrees that stuff is like pudding.

The Dana 44s in my big Sport have over 500K on them. The gears look like they're brand new. I finally had to change outer bearings in the rear year before last at about 530K but the inner carrier bearings still were in great shape. ARBs have been flawless and trouble free the entire time. I ran Red Line, Amsoil, Royal Purple and Valvoline the entire time.

As long as you use a good name brand, you should be fine. I like Amsoil and Royal Purple. Red Line works fine, I just don't like that it thickens up more at lower temps. No kidding, 75W-140 at sub-freezing will suck gas like you would not believe.

... The PO neglected this poor rig, so I plan do alot of work to be sure things are back in tip top shape. The front diff is leaking. I need to clean it to be sure, but I believe it's the drain plug. I did not notice before as we had so many other leaks masking it to this point. Its a very slow leak. Just a drip every now and again. If once I clean it up I determine it is the plug... I assume there is a crush washer or rubber washer on the plug? Can I get a replacement anywhere besides the dealer? Should I suspect the plug itself is bad? Again where do I source? If it's the diff cover, I use a gasket maker type product? Which one is best? How thick of a bead?

The rear is just like a Ford 9". No diff cover. The front is the same as Dana, Chevy, B/P, etc. Just a stamped cover. Use the gray RTV like the factory uses. I run a enough to cover the full flange. I run a bead and then spread it out with my finger. I like to see maybe a 1/16" squish out the edge when the cover screws are tightened down.

I don't know anywhere to get the cover or plugs other than the dealership. I'm sure that you could find plugs somewhere else but it'd probably burn up all the money you'd save in your time. Salvage yard if they'll let yo pick pieced off a housing maybe.

? Is there a magnet for particles? If there is... Where is it and should I clean it or leave it be unless I'm removing the cover...

Some of the plugs have a built in magnet, and some don't. I don't remember if the diff plugs do or not. You'll know if it does as soon as you pull them 'cause they'll have stuff stuck to the end. Clean the particles off as best you can.

Due to that leak I see the fluid is quite black. Again I'm assuming neglect so I want to be sure to clean out as much dirty fluid as I can before I put in the new synthetic stuff.

After a 100K+ miles it'll get that way normally. Diff lube should be changed every couple years depending on millage driven. Synthetic will last A LOT longer than standard gear lube. When I drained mine last time the Red Line still looked almost new. Just a very slight discoloration. The Royal Purple stuff looked like I just dumped it out of the bottle. I ran the Amsoil for 100K at least and it was slightly discolored but that was all.

Use a really absorbent, clean rag(s) to wipe out as much as you can get to. I don't recommend using any cleaner like carb or brake cleaner unless you're going to completely disassemble everything. You really don't want to wash the film off the bearings and gears. However, if you had crud leak in from outside then ... of course, if its that bad you probably want to tear it all down and wash everything off. I've never had a housing leak crud from the outside in so I've gotten away with just wiping it out and refilling it.

Also my daughter allowed it in deep wet watery mud where it got stuck. Want to be sure it didn't seep in the diffs. No odd humming though!

You'll know. If the fluid is milky, then it got water and crud in. As it sounds, you said it was just black, so it doesn't sound like it.

Is there something I can spray in there to be sure I get any nasty out after the old has drained? Like brake cleaner? Or will this hurt internal components? What is best to clean it with?

Or Would it be better to instead get some cheap regular gear oil... light weight and swap that in as a rinse.... you know put in drive a few days and drain and then put in the good stuff? If so.... how many miles should I drive before I redrain?

If you're really worried, fill it with regular gear lube, drive it around for 20-30 minutes. You don't need to drive it for days. Drain it and refill it with synthetic. If you're going to spray the inside out - which again I don't recommend - that would be a good idea. You want ALL the cleaner out of the housing before you put the synthetic in.

YES. If you spray cleaner in a LSD you can cause some very bad things to happen to the clutch linings. So you might want to just wipe it out good, fill it with standard gear lube, run it 20-30 minutes, drain and refill with synthetic. If the rear is a standard open differential, just follow the directions for the front carrier.

The front carrier is a standard open - non-limited slip - differential. If you spray it out, wipe it good, refill it with regular gear lube, drive it around for 20-30 minutes in 4WD - AT LOW SPEED preferably on a gravel road - (if its not AWD), then drain it again and refill it with synthetic you should be ok.

AND before everyone jumps in about how they totally just dumped new fluid in and all was good - I would be cautious where the transmission, t-case and axles are concerned. A screw-up there will be incredibly expensive to fix.

BTW, you better check the outer bearings. Odds are they're ok, but the problem with dumping a vehicle in mud or water is it creates a vacuum. Even factory sealed bearings can get stuff sucked inside. There's no way to tell that's happened unless they're obviously bad but it'll dramatically shorten the lifespan. Just something to keep an eye and ear on. I would pull the rear shafts and make sure you don't have crap inside the tubes. Life will suck for you if you do all this and crud in the tube ruins the carrier bearings.

Same on the front. Disassemble the entire outer hub assemblies right down to the half shafts, clean and relube. Check the CV boots for cracks, leaks, pin-holes, etc. Sometimes if you pull the half shafts and shake the shaft with the boot next to your ear you can hear if water is sloshing around inside.

Also.... considering my transmission vent was clogged with mud... the diff vents might be as well. Where are they located on front and back diffs so I can blow them out. Are they easily replaceable it I find them damaged?

Just being overly cautious before I dig in.

Cautious is good before and while. You're dealing with some very expensive assemblies.

I don't remember where the front one is but I presume its right on top the carrier. I don't remember it having a remote vent tube. The rear has a remote vent tube that runs from the housing up to the cross member in the frame. Unless the hose is cracked, split or came off, there's nothing for you to do there really.

Look behind the rear wheels on the frame rail. You will see two 2" plastic plugs - one on each frame rail. Those should be there. The round tube that goes between the left and right frame rail is where the vent tube plugs into. My Dana still uses the stock venting setup, and I have NEVER had a problem with sucking water no matter how deep or how long its been submerged. If one of those plugs are missing, though ....

Edward

[russiankid]

when i changed all the fluids in my rig, I use Advance auto 75w-90 for the front and rear diff's as that is all I could get at hand at the time in the correct viscosity. In the transfer case I used Mobile 1 synthetic. I checked my rear fluid level a month ago as the pinion seal leaks a tad, and after a year the fluid is still clear liquid gold. Eventually I'll change it out with some better stuff, but for now it'll work and it will help clear out some of the old fluid that was in there.

[bdmontero]

Be careful witha what kind of GL fluid you are putting in your transfer case. There are parts in there that will be ruined with the wrong fluid

Sent from my SM-N900V using proboards

[youngblood]

The transfer case oil is specific to GL4 due to the brass inards like bdmontero said, wrong stuff with eat up the bras, Do a "GL4" search on forum for info.

[redraif]

OK things are back and running. I can do some much needed work on the truck this weekend! YEAH!!!!!!

DIY – rear differential oil change
www.monterosportonline.net/?page_id=280

DIY – front differential oil change
www.monterosportonline.net/?page_id=276

DIY – transfer case oil change
www.monterosportonline.net/?page_id=284

[ES_97Sport]

Mar 12, 2015 12:58:56 GMT -5 youngblood said:

The transfer case oil is specific to GL4 due to the brass inards like bdmontero said, wrong stuff with eat up the bras, Do a "GL4" search on forum for info.

Been there, got the tee-shirt. GL5 will most certainly eat the Mitsu t-case and/or M/T.

Edward

[ES_97Sport]

Mar 13, 2015 10:24:38 GMT -5 redraif said:

OK things are back and running. I can do some much needed work on the truck this weekend! YEAH!!!!!!
....

Did you check the t-case shifter boot for cracks/degradation while you were at it?

Edward

[redraif]

I plan too... spouse gave me the puppy eyes when I said I was working on the truck this past weekend so I didn't do it. I will this weekend though. Got a coupon from summit for free $15 off... put that towards the gl4 and the Gl5. Plus I have a $25 off 150. Figure if get all my fluids at once. get some synthetic motor oil and good synthetic grease for my suspension. Also brake fluid and do a flush... I'm sure that's never been done... wonder if I should go to silicone?

[redraif]

Mar 16, 2015 17:15:45 GMT -5 ES_97Sport said:

Mar 13, 2015 10:24:38 GMT -5 redraif said:

OK things are back and running. I can do some much needed work on the truck this weekend! YEAH!!!!!!
....

Did you check the t-case shifter boot for cracks/degradation while you were at it?

Edward

I will check it. I'm betting it's bad. I hear a lot of noise inside the cabin from the 4x4 shift lever. Is this a pull the console to replace job? I'm planning to go over to mitsu to fight about the key situtation. I will pick up a new boot.

[ES_97Sport]

Mar 16, 2015 20:23:19 GMT -5 redraif said:

Mar 16, 2015 17:15:45 GMT -5 ES_97Sport said:

Did you check the t-case shifter boot for cracks/degradation while you were at it?

Edward

I will check it. I'm betting it's bad. I hear a lot of noise inside the cabin from the 4x4 shift lever. Is this a pull the console to replace job? I'm planning to go over to mitsu to fight about the key situtation. I will pick up a new boot.

Those boots are a pain in the butt. Sigh. Yea, you have to pull the console and take the shifter out and replace the boot. The shifter handle comes off, then the shifter separates into two pieces. Its held together with a snap ring.

The boots are replaceable without having to replace the shifter, but the boots are only available from the dealership. They're pretty cheap and its worth getting a couple for spares. They have the annoying tendency to be out of stock in the US when I need them.

Hmmm. Noise? Isn't there two boots for the auto? One for the tunnel and the little one on the shifter? Noise is usually the one on the tunnel.

Edward

[redraif]

Well I looked back at an old post where a local from 4x4 wire came to help when we first got the rig. He said the transfer case boot was cut with a knife by the transmission shop.... so it looks like one way or the other I will be digging in.

My 4x4 shifter had issue with the internal pin shifting out of place. He and I rigged it with a hose clamp to keep the pin in its spot. So fat so good. Was better then the $400 alternative.

So here is the link to the thread on 4x4wire.com:
www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=UBB69&Number=1256903&fpart=&PHPSESSID=

The gist of what he found is below

Went to Red's and either fixed it or figured out what parts she needed.

What I found and did:

Non Superselect tcase (no center diff, CAD front axle, no locking hubs). In 2hi position, shifter had about 4-5" of sideways flop. Felt like it had one side pivot pin in place, one adrift on the lever pivot ball. No spring loading feel to the right side of the 2hi/4hi pattern slot. Sort of fished it forward and felt the snick into 4hi. Little 4wd symbol on dash blinks.

Did all the tests on the CAD vac system, ohmed the two vac valves, took the cad actuator mounting bolts loose and tested cad mechanical lock and release by moving the actuator itself to move the rod into the cad. All mech was fine. All vac was tight.

Removed the shifter by taking out console, found rubber underboot had been cut out with a knife around the inside of the flange, boot flange nuts on the studs virgin from the factory, never had a wrench on 'em. MrTransmissin cut the boot when they pulled the tranny to reseal it for Red. Took out shifter by removing 4 bolt plate, to which shift lever and pivot stuff is bolted. Red had been told the "bushing" had come apart and fallen out. Lie. Shifter pivot is a hemisphere of nylon on the shifter shaft, spring loaded to hold it against a steel hemisphere atop a short steel cylinder. This is the "pivot ball". The steel sylinder has two vertical slots in it. The lower part of the shifter shaft (below the pivot ball) has a steel pin pressed in from side to side and the pin can move up and down in the slots, allowing the shift lever some up/down travel against the spring pressure against the nylon hemisphere. All parts were present and sound (I thnik - anybody actually have an 01MS fsm?). The pin was not centered in the shaft. Pin length = steel cylinder outer diameter. If pin is off center, only one side hangs in the slot, other side hangs free inside the cylinder - therefore the lever flops. tride to drive pin to center, no go. Tried to squish steel cylinder some so the pin would engage on both sides, no go. Red digs out a decent 1.5" hose clamp from the goody box, and I put the clamp around the upper end of the cylinder, over the upper end of the slot, which forced the pin to center up and hang on both sides, but still slide up/down ok within range of compression spring. S t r e t c h e d the boot back over the clamp and JMMED lip under shaft book flange, slicked it bac on the tcase, and it shifts like butter, and NO FLOPSY MOPSY on the shaft.

Test drove and lights go on and off right (mostly), CAD works right, and shifts right. Tcase switches are bad or little balls are missin', so the dash lights flicker or don't light unless you jiggle the shifter to jiggle the shift rails to jiggle the tcase switches. Red to buy new switches.