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Post by montysport01 on Jul 14, 2015 17:04:01 GMT -5
Hey All, another AC topic, I'm sorry. I know the A/C issue seems to be common with these vehicles and there are 1000 posts about them. I hate to beat a dead horse, but it's hot and want cold air at some point. I'm driving an all stock 01 XLS with the 3.0 and 189,xxx on it. I had the compressor go out about 2 years ago. Never bothered with working on the A/C system till recently due to cost and am now seeing why I didn't want to do it then. I replaced the compressor with a used one off another 01 xls. had it bench tested and showed it worked fine. I vacuumed the system and refilled it with oil and 24 oz of 134-a. System showed 375+ on the high side and no pressure on the low. After letting it sit and cool down several times and trying it again I had roughly the same results. After lots of reading I figured the expansion valve must have been clogged. For 20$ I figured it would be worth trying it. Today I followed troutdogs guide for the replacement. Great Work! Much easier than I thought it would be. Vacuumed it out and refilled with 134-a. Gauges now show high side between 300-350 and low side 60 and climbs to 90 when the compressor cycles. I have no cold air. Not even cool air. In fact it's HOT air. Like warmer than the outside air. (Which is hard to believe seeing it was 95 here today) Being curious i took the dash back apart to get to the expansion valve and pulled the door cover off the cooling unit and felt HOT air. The unit itself is HOT. I don't mean warm I mean HOTTER than 95 degree outside air. I have no idea what the problem is. Feel free to ask questions. I'll be more than happy to look at something I haven't or try something else. I have read a lot of the posts here about A/C and tried most of them. I do know all my fuses and relays are good. Expansion Valve Guide: msport97.proboards.com/thread/4406/step-instructions-on-expansion-valve |
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Post by ES_97Sport on Jul 15, 2015 15:12:13 GMT -5
Hey All, another AC topic, I'm sorry. I know the A/C issue seems to be common with these vehicles and there are 1000 posts about them. I hate to beat a dead horse, but it's hot and want cold air at some point. .... For what its worth ... AC wasn't working on my '02 Eclipse GT. Dealership went through everything a couple weeks ago - needed a new compressor. What they told me - again - and have several times over the many years is that they're required to replace the evaporator along with the compressor. When the compressor goes it inevitably screws up the evaporator so that's a requirement that Mitsu has put in place. Been like that for a LOT of years. Edward |
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Post by montysport01 on Jul 15, 2015 20:01:10 GMT -5
That's the second time today I've been told that. In fact the first guy said a bad evaporator can cause a compressor to go bad. Pressures may look ok but a clog or evaporator full of gunk can ruin it. Well I guess I can look forward to vacumming the system again and changing it.
Thanks Edward.
Your posts always have a lot of knowledge in them.
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Post by ES_97Sport on Jul 16, 2015 13:45:15 GMT -5
That's the second time today I've been told that. In fact the first guy said a bad evaporator can cause a compressor to go bad. Pressures may look ok but a clog or evaporator full of gunk can ruin it. Well I guess I can look forward to vacumming the system again and changing it. Thanks Edward. Your posts always have a lot of knowledge in them. Yep, been told the same thing both by the Mitsu techs as wells as refrigeration shops. Tech suspected that was the cause of my first compressor failure on my big Sport many, many years ago. PITB, but not much you can do about it other than replace them both at the same time. Thanks! Spend a lot of time talking to the Mitsu techs. Just trying to pass the knowledge on. Kinda the sucky thing about Mitsus. There's a lot of stuff that only a trained tech that's been working on them for 20 years would know about and they don't exactly advertise what they know. Isn't a common base of knowledge out there like there is for Chevy, Ford and others. Edward |
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Post by montysport01 on Jul 20, 2015 17:26:25 GMT -5
 Ok So am I reading this right? When the high side of the system has less than 2,354 kpa or 341.xxx psi the switch should have no continuity? And when the low side has between 221 and 196 kpa or 32 and 28 psi the switch should have continuity? What if my high side shows 350+ psi and i have continuity? What if the switch shows continuity all the time? I'm thinking along with my drier being clogged up this switch isn't functioning right. Or maybe since the drier is clogged up the switch can't read the pressures right? I'm going to replace the drier and recharge the system this weekend now that my drier is in. Is the best thing to do to check the switch after I replace the drier and recharge the system? Just trying to check the extra pieces of the A/C system so when it works, it all works. Thanks. |
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Post by ES_97Sport on Jul 21, 2015 18:14:57 GMT -5
View AttachmentOk So am I reading this right? When the high side of the system has less than 2,354 kpa or 341.xxx psi the switch should have no continuity? And when the low side has between 221 and 196 kpa or 32 and 28 psi the switch should have continuity? What if my high side shows 350+ psi and i have continuity? What if the switch shows continuity all the time? I'm thinking along with my drier being clogged up this switch isn't functioning right. Or maybe since the drier is clogged up the switch can't read the pressures right? I'm going to replace the drier and recharge the system this weekend now that my drier is in. Is the best thing to do to check the switch after I replace the drier and recharge the system? Just trying to check the extra pieces of the A/C system so when it works, it all works. Thanks. If the drier is clogged the switch won't function correctly. I've never asked the techs, but I think I remember being told that the switch can clog up along with the dryer. Don't quote me on that.  If you already are having weirdness with the switch, I'd just replace the switch at the same time. Don't know how much a switch is or if that's prohibitively expensive. When the system is at correct operating pressure (and ON) there should be continuity. When off there should be no continuity (no pressure). If the system is at correct operating pressure (ON) and there is no continuity OR if there is continuity when the system is off, the switch needs to be replaced. Leastwise that's how I read it. Edward |
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Post by montysport01 on Jul 24, 2015 18:57:55 GMT -5
Ok so here's an update. Today I replaced the dryer. Well I KNOW the system was clogged in the dryer AT LEAST. As when I turned it upside down nothing came out but a white chalk like substance. That's supposed to be in there right?  So with the system vacuumed and recharged I still have warm air. Not hot like before. Also the pressures have come down both high and low to what seems like a more reasonable pressure. Not 100+ low and 375+ high. Now the clutch won't engage when you press the A/C button. It will if you manually give it 12V.(I read the HVAC guide for the MS and checked all my fuses and relays) It worked this afternoon when I refilled the system. Blew air slightly colder than the outside air. Maybe 80+/- and it was 90+ outside. I'm thinking the dual pressure switch is gunked up. And I guess I'll dump and refill the system again after I changed it. The switch was showing continuity constantly, now it shows no continuity running or not. Also while the system was being filled and even after it was full the condenser fan never ran. I'm hoping the pressure switch controls the fan and EVERYTHING will work after it is replaced. |
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Post by montysport01 on Jul 30, 2015 11:42:48 GMT -5
Ok So............
I ordered a pressure switch from eBay and it was wrong. Part # 1711470 is a universal switch that is "supposed to fit" my 01 XLS 3.0, It doesn't. The base is too large to thread in and the threads are wrong, so double fail.
Dug around online for a while and found the part # for my 01 XLS 3.0 is MR360872. Turns out, when you google this part # is shows fitting a 97-99. I replaced the drier already. See above post. The drier part # is MR315071. That shows a 3 hole drier. I called around and found that my local O'reilly has a "univeral" part in stock. Murray # 80-7986. It has a 4 hole top. Any idea what the 4th hole is for? Mine is a 3 hole. In/Out/Switch.
And finally why does the switch for an "97-99" the same switch I have in my 01? Or is that a dumb question?
I'm at a loss. I have the right switch ordered and in another 4 days I might have air.
Thanks, Stephen
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Post by ES_97Sport on Jul 30, 2015 15:36:28 GMT -5
Ok So............ I ordered a pressure switch from eBay and it was wrong. Part # 1711470 is a universal switch that is "supposed to fit" my 01 XLS 3.0, It doesn't. The base is too large to thread in and the threads are wrong, so double fail. Dug around online for a while and found the part # for my 01 XLS 3.0 is MR360872. Turns out, when you google this part # is shows fitting a 97-99. I replaced the drier already. See above post. The drier part # is MR315071. That shows a 3 hole drier. I called around and found that my local O'reilly has a "univeral" part in stock. Murray # 80-7986. It has a 4 hole top. Any idea what the 4th hole is for? Mine is a 3 hole. In/Out/Switch. And finally why does the switch for an "97-99" the same switch I have in my 01? Or is that a dumb question? I'm at a loss. I have the right switch ordered and in another 4 days I might have air. Thanks, Stephen Wow. I have no idea. Definitely into stuff I've never touched. Wrong switch doesn't surprise me. I don't know how many times I've ordered 'Montero Sport' parts and gotten something 'universal' that didn't work or didn't fit. I would not be surprised, though, to find out the switch is the same from '97-'05. I can't imagine why it, the evaporator, condenser or compressor/clutch would have been changed between Gen 1 and Gen 2. As far as I remember, the 3.0/3.5 radiator and condenser are the same all the way through Gen 1 and Gen 2. Not like they changed even where stuff is located. I don't know why they'd change evaporators either. I thought I remembered some discussion on the Wire that even the compressor is the same. The switch, though ... They changed the climate control between Gen 1 and Gen 2, so maybe .... Edward |
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Post by dclambertt on Aug 7, 2015 13:39:45 GMT -5
Well I'm having a new compressor and dryer installed as I type. Took the leap and ordered an OEM Mitsu compressor.. beautiful piece of machinery. Hope that cures my AC issues. Remains to be seen if the evap. has to be replaced too. Ugh.
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Post by 6500rpm on Aug 7, 2015 16:09:37 GMT -5
If your compressor came apart and put metal in the system you need to reverse flush all the lines, condenser and evaporator before replacing parts or you'll just contaminate the system again. Then replace accumulator, compressor, and TXV valve or orifice tube depending on what the system uses. Low side pressure should be in the 36psi range and high side up to 250psi. Both your pressures were high in one of the posts above, that usually indicates overcharge or the aux cooling fan isn't working when the compressor kicks on. The high side high, and low side low/0 psi is definitely a sign of a restriction and I'd make sure you flush the system. If the white powder you saw was desiccant that was loose in the system it shouldn't be that way and once again is stuff just waiting to clog things and damage the new compressor.
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Post by dclambertt on Aug 7, 2015 17:18:31 GMT -5
If your compressor came apart and put metal in the system you need to reverse flush all the lines, condenser and evaporator before replacing parts or you'll just contaminate the system again. Then replace accumulator, compressor, and TXV valve or orifice tube depending on what the system uses. Low side pressure should be in the 36psi range and high side up to 250psi. Both your pressures were high in one of the posts above, that usually indicates overcharge or the aux cooling fan isn't working when the compressor kicks on. The high side high, and low side low/0 psi is definitely a sign of a restriction and I'd make sure you flush the system. If the white powder you saw was desiccant that was loose in the system it shouldn't be that way and once again is stuff just waiting to clog things and damage the new compressor. I assume you were responding to montysport01? My old compressor is intact but not pumping. It was the original. |
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Post by ES_97Sport on Aug 7, 2015 17:25:37 GMT -5
If your compressor came apart and put metal in the system you need to reverse flush all the lines, condenser and evaporator before replacing parts or you'll just contaminate the system again. Then replace accumulator, compressor, and TXV valve or orifice tube depending on what the system uses. ... If the white powder you saw was desiccant that was loose in the system it shouldn't be that way and once again is stuff just waiting to clog things and damage the new compressor. You just wheeled off exactly what the Mitsu tech told me about my Eclipse and my new '99. He further said that if there is crud in the system and you don't do the above, you will almost certainly screw up the new compressor. He was pretty adamant about the high likelihood of that happening. Edward |
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Post by bdmontero on Aug 8, 2015 9:45:14 GMT -5
If there is metal in the system it is DONE. YOU CANNOT clean the condenser out thoroughly. Trust me I've talked to several experienced AC techs and mechanics. I can give you phone numbers if you don't believe me. Reverse flushing will be wasting your time and money.
Sent from my SM-N900V using proboards
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Post by dclambertt on Aug 13, 2015 17:31:31 GMT -5
Sigh, I just had my compressor, drier, condenser and one of the tubes replaced and still no AC. My mechanic is giving up on it and just charging for parts. He said the evaporator is testing fine but I have to wonder after reading this thread again.
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So with the system vacuumed and recharged I still have warm air. Not hot like before. Also the pressures have come down both high and low to what seems like a more reasonable pressure. Not 100+ low and 375+ high. 
