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Post by thorne on Jul 18, 2015 6:00:46 GMT -5
I have a 2002 LS, and back in 2006 I got in an accident and the AC Condenser had to be replaced. Fast forward to 2015, and it looks like the condenser has sprung a leak. My local shop (which is normally pretty we priced) want $690 to replace the condenser, drier, vacuum and recharge the system. That seems INSANE to me, so my plan is to replace the condenser and drier myself, and have a local shop do the vacuum and recharge. I've spent a good bit of time searching for any "How To's", but I haven't seen much. Looks like all I have to do is pull the grill off, and unbolt the condenser. The drier should be pretty easy (just gotta figure out where it is!).
Has anyone attempted this? It's doesn't seem that hard, and the Condenser and Drier were about $100.00 on Amazon! I'd be happy to build a How To with pics if anyone things it would be worthwhile.
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Post by bdmontero on Jul 18, 2015 11:19:29 GMT -5
Just remember you have maybe 5-10 minutes to install filter dryer etc before that thing sucks up all the moisture it can and is ruined. I'd pay the 690 in a heart beat. Also if the condensor is clogged up inside AT ALL you CANNOT clean it out. That's coming from a guy in town here who has worked on A/C units for 20+ years. But it looks like you are replacing that so thumbs up from me;D ;D
Sent from my SM-N900V using proboards
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Post by thorne on Jul 20, 2015 5:14:19 GMT -5
Sounds like I'll need to do some practice runs by removing and reinstalling the old drier. It could be a new sport on the forum: Timed AC Drier Replacement. I know I have to pour some Compressor fluid into the condenser, but what about anywhere else? Do I need to lube the connection between the drier and the hoses with compressor oil?
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Post by ES_97Sport on Jul 20, 2015 14:57:14 GMT -5
Sounds like I'll need to do some practice runs by removing and reinstalling the old drier. It could be a new sport on the forum: Timed AC Drier Replacement. I know I have to pour some Compressor fluid into the condenser, but what about anywhere else? Do I need to lube the connection between the drier and the hoses with compressor oil? No idea on the rest. But I'm with BD. I'd pay the $690. Counting parts and recharge, that's not much labor. Most of your cost there is the recharge and parts. This is definitely not something you want to screw up or you could end up paying to have the entire system flushed and a new compressor. Don't know how your guys to it but the dealership here runs through the entire system when they do A/C parts which includes running the dye into the system so that a future leak is easier to find. They also pressure test the entire system, check temp, etc. For what they charge, it definitely worth it. They do a lot more than the bare minimum you're talking about doing. Edward
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Post by thorne on Aug 8, 2015 6:08:53 GMT -5
Quick update: I got the condenser replaced, but I had to cut out the line that goes to the drier as the bolt snapped. Tried drilling it out, but that didn't work out too well. Got a replacement for about $25 (plus $15 shipping). Then, when I went to install the drier, I found out the hard way that I get sent the wrong part (no sight glass or port for the LP sensor). At this point, I figured that I'd gotten most of the work done, so I took it to my local shop to get the drier replaced, and have the system vacuumed and recharged. That cost about $260, the condenser was $85, and the broken condenser line was $40. All said and done, a total bill of $385. Total savings of $305, so I'll call this a win!
Of course, while it was at the shop getting the AC sorted out, the Alternator died (again). I've done the valve cover gaskets, and there is no oil in the alternator. I think this time, I'll have them install an OEM alternator. I'm running out of options and starting to wonder if it's time to give up on the monty.
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Post by ES_97Sport on Aug 10, 2015 13:55:17 GMT -5
All said and done, a total bill of $385. Total savings of $305, so I'll call this a win! Cool! Ouch!! I swear, there are days you just can't win. BEFORE replacing your alternator with an OEM one - they're expensive - you might want to check out the HO alternator I've been running. Its still expensive, but at least you'd be getting something out of it besides just a new alternator. Quality PowerI have two so far and haven't had so much as a hic-cup. They definitely supply the juice. I'm actually surprised at the quality. My big Sport has a SAS (solid axle swap) so there's no protection underneath like a stock sport. Very hard on alternators. You will need a different alternator belt. Something like $30 from Napa. I'll post up the belt PN in a bit. OH, and before installing a new alternator, make sure the rest of the charging system is in good shape. If you're going through alternators, you may have a bad battery. Check the negative cable. It attaches to the body, engine and frame. The ground points may be all crudded up. Edward
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Post by thorne on Aug 25, 2015 17:47:51 GMT -5
I ended up going with the OEM. Was really tempted to do the HO option, but I ended up getting a good deal ($285 for the part). I don't know about the grounding line. I'll get that checked out next time I take it to the shop. I can't remember the last time I had the transfer case fluid checked, but I finally have the 4WD working again (spent a month of switching it on and off). Got 168000 miles on it now, so I plan on just getting a bunch of preventive maintenance done over the next few months.
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