|
Post by dirk on Jul 16, 2016 23:06:51 GMT -5
Well, all 4 doors will have blueish/white Mitsubishi puddle lights. I like the mirror idea , just think for now I already have a ton of things going on LOL. I got the body lift in, may have to redo it though, the rubber bushings are all in pretty sad condition, hard and severely cracking. while I had all the lower side panels off I did get them painted black though, also changed the carpet over the rear wheel wells to black. The rest of the cargo area and rest of interior I will do when I install the new electronics. I have the last week of July off, I am hoping to get it all done then. I uncranked the front torsion bars a bit to soften the ride, and get a bit more wheel travel, I like the ride now, but it has a bit too much rake for me, so I will try to fine tune it the next couple of weeks to get a good balance between stock rake and level. I know with out the spare, and nothing inside, and no tow hitch my *** end rides pretty high currently. I am hoping that stereo, plus tow hitch, will drop it a little bit. I will snap some pictures tomorrow. I spent all day painting it and reassembly so I could get the car seats back in B4 morning. Being my only daily driver, makes it hard, have to do baby steps, and put it back together a ton of times B4 I ever get it all done.
|
|
|
Post by dirk on Jul 27, 2016 22:25:47 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by dirk on Jul 28, 2016 3:20:13 GMT -5
Some of you may get a kick out of the added puddle lights.
|
|
|
My Rig
Jul 28, 2016 20:25:00 GMT -5
Post by jkdv8 on Jul 28, 2016 20:25:00 GMT -5
I also have the 3 way component speakers installed up front. I was at a lack of locations to mount the crossovers, so they ended up mounted in the glove box. They are huge comparative to 2 way crossover's and are bi-amp capable Mine are close to the same size and I mounted them to the inside of the door panel. It's a tight fit but it worked. Some of you may get a kick out of the added puddle lights. Nice. Looks good man. Did you mount them under the mirror or the door frame.
|
|
|
My Rig
Jul 28, 2016 22:50:11 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by dirk on Jul 28, 2016 22:50:11 GMT -5
Actually I mounted it into the plastic lip of the interior door panel. I tried wiring it at the mirror to see how it would look, and half of the emblem was cut off and stretched across the side of the car. So if you were just using it for light it would work, but I like it where it is now. The light pretty much encompasses anywhere I would be stepping or jumping to from the doorway/sidestep. I did run into a hick up, the type I wanted is pretty long, and the panel is angled so it was pressed right against the metal frame of the door. Makes the panel want to pop out 1 peg once in a while, and flexes that part of the panel. No buggy but will have to cut a smidgen of metal if it becomes an issue later. For now can barely tell, and didn't want to cut into the metal since things rust fast enough here with out help. Lol
As for the xrossovers, I chose glove box for a couple of reasons. First I have access to it if I want to switch from 1 to 2 amps powering it later. Also to always have access to the 0-3db switches for the mid and same for tweets. Makes fine tuning the sound easier later. Also it is roughly 75% thicker then my old 2 way crossovers. So mounting it in the door area was pretty much impossible.
|
|
|
My Rig
Jul 29, 2016 15:59:35 GMT -5
Post by jkdv8 on Jul 29, 2016 15:59:35 GMT -5
Actually I mounted it into the plastic lip of the interior door panel. I tried wiring it at the mirror to see how it would look, and half of the emblem was cut off and stretched across the side of the car. So if you were just using it for light it would work, but I like it where it is now. The light pretty much encompasses anywhere I would be stepping or jumping to from the doorway/sidestep. I did run into a hick up, the type I wanted is pretty long, and the panel is angled so it was pressed right against the metal frame of the door. Makes the panel want to pop out 1 peg once in a while, and flexes that part of the panel. No buggy but will have to cut a smidgen of metal if it becomes an issue later. For now can barely tell, and didn't want to cut into the metal since things rust fast enough here with out help. Lol As for the xrossovers, I chose glove box for a couple of reasons. First I have access to it if I want to switch from 1 to 2 amps powering it later. Also to always have access to the 0-3db switches for the mid and same for tweets. Makes fine tuning the sound easier later. Also it is roughly 75% thicker then my old 2 way crossovers. So mounting it in the door area was pretty much impossible. Yes, definitely. Looks good where it's at. The ones that have sparked my interest do look kinda large and awkward as well. One I saw that just had the diamonds looked low profile but don't recall it showing scale with anything. But, yea you would want to hit it with a primer pen and/or sealer if you do cut into the metal. Should've mentioned that before. Did you look to see if they would fit on the backside of the glove box. Just so you wouldn't lose any glove box space and it's just the two tabs you push in to drop it down when you need to get to them.
|
|
|
My Rig
Jul 30, 2016 3:15:46 GMT -5
Post by dirk on Jul 30, 2016 3:15:46 GMT -5
Yeah, unfortunately the crossovers were pretty tall also, I looked at that first, also why I couldn't fit them behind the little kick panels. Changing/adding the 10 speakers so far and changing interior colors has turned into a lot more work then I was hoping. Also didn't help I decided to work on it after everyone was asleep and I was half asleep. I grabbed the soldering iron incorrectly and didn't notice till I heard the sizzle. So I've been working with with limited use of one hand.I still have the sub enclosure to build, finish amp rack and create/wire the gauge pod, install the USB chargers, install the back up camera, and new android double din head unit, add seat heaters, and custom seat covers. I think the headliner, and front carpets will be next years projects with adding the off-road bumpers and rock sliders. If I can finish all that this year before winter comes I will be truly happy.
|
|
|
My Rig
Jul 30, 2016 10:55:29 GMT -5
Post by dirk on Jul 30, 2016 10:55:29 GMT -5
Back side coming together.
|
|
|
My Rig
Jul 30, 2016 11:28:34 GMT -5
Post by jkdv8 on Jul 30, 2016 11:28:34 GMT -5
I like the amp location. Contemplated doing that myself. Sub box covers most of the back one anyways and putting it under plexiglass and some LEDs would look nice. Some lighted plexiglass cylinders that pull air from under the compartments would look nice and should keep things cool as well.
|
|
|
My Rig
Jul 30, 2016 14:28:26 GMT -5
Post by dirk on Jul 30, 2016 14:28:26 GMT -5
I'm just using thermaltake 120mm blue LED computer fans, wired into a simple 3.5" fan controller and a relay.
|
|
|
My Rig
Jul 31, 2016 20:30:45 GMT -5
Post by jkdv8 on Jul 31, 2016 20:30:45 GMT -5
If your amp has fans built in it will help. You just don't want to over do it because they work better and it's better for them when they are on the warmer side. Just don't want it to overheat. Very thin line. I wish the fan on mine was controlled rather than being on all the time. In the winter it doesn't ever get hot enough and it's on the back of the box behind the rear seats.
|
|
|
Post by dirk on Aug 12, 2016 0:04:36 GMT -5
A recent photo after body lift. I actually lowered the front by an inch. After the body list there was plenty of clearance for tires with only turning up the torsion bars mildly, verse b4 the lift when they were almost maxxed out. Now just to finish the electronics and interior color changes, then only a bit of armor for protection (thinking rock sliders first, then a front bumper. I am planning on redoing the inner removable wheel well liner by using the existing as a template, and just adding 2 inches onto it, and also adding liner to the space created in the back wheel wells. I am not sure how well it will hold up but currently have a roll of rubber mat used for putting under gym equipment. I have all new control arms, bushings, tie rod ends (inner and outer) pitman arm and idler arm going in this week or next. trying to tighten up the front end a tad, it is a bit vague and with 188K miles and tons of salty winters I am sure that some of my play is coming from them. And then work on steering lash after all replaced.
|
|
|
My Rig
Aug 12, 2016 20:25:46 GMT -5
Post by ES_97Sport on Aug 12, 2016 20:25:46 GMT -5
Looking very nice! Companies that sell interior parts like weather striping for automobiles - look for where the classic and rod guys get their stuff - usually sell the same mat that is used for the wheel wells in bulk sheets. Edward
|
|
|
My Rig
Aug 13, 2016 0:22:21 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by dirk on Aug 13, 2016 0:22:21 GMT -5
Looking very nice! Companies that sell interior parts like weather striping for automobiles - look for where the classic and rod guys get their stuff - usually sell the same mat that is used for the wheel wells in bulk sheets. Edward Very limited on that stuff here in middle of no where. No hotrod shops, no welding shops etc. I can't even find a mechanic that I can get work done except the mitsubishi dealership. Closest 4x4 shop that I would consider working on it is 3 hours away. How much structural integrity would I lose by drilling small holes to add plastic clips to hold the wheel well liner to the frame? All the welded on tabs for these and wire hold downs are pretty much just falling off. U still want easy access and thinking about adding push pin clips and zip tie stand off to those spots. They would be small 1/8th to 1/4 inch holes.
|
|
|
My Rig
Aug 16, 2016 13:18:55 GMT -5
Post by ES_97Sport on Aug 16, 2016 13:18:55 GMT -5
Very limited on that stuff here in middle of no where. No hotrod shops, no welding shops etc. I can't even find a mechanic that I can get work done except the mitsubishi dealership. Closest 4x4 shop that I would consider working on it is 3 hours away. Ouch. These are the guys I use and I think they ship. B-D CompanyI did that with the big Sport. A few spaced reasonably well appart - like 10-12 inches or so - shouldn't be a problem is seems to work. I did the same thing you're talking about. Don't make swiss chease out of it but half a dozen shouldn't be a problem. Don't forget to primar and paint the holes when you're done or they'll cause rust issues down the road. I used the ones like Mitsu used on the plastic kick cover that goes under the glove box. The only problem I had is getting ones that had a long enough shank. The frame isn't sheet metal or thin plastic - which is what these are usually made to attach stuff to. B-D had longer ones than I got, btw, and I saw some on Amazon a few weeks ago, too. Edward
|
|