Does crank pulley need to be replaced & which do I buy?

[redraif]

So I was trying to determine how much I will have to spend to deal with the Harmonic balancer/crank pulley issue I had at the tail end of July...
msport97.proboards.com/thread/10907/opinions-sports-harmonic-balancer-repair



I said I wanted to replace the Harmonic balancer/crank pulley bolt and washer to be sure I had the updated version... this is a no brainer... and I will get it done 100% (already talked to the shop that fixed the water pump 2500 miles before the HB bolt came out... they are liable for the bolt backing out and said they would replace the bolt and balancer for me for free if I brought in the Mitsu one. Tech who did my repair was fired... hmmm... bet I know why)

Now the question is about the Harmonic balancer/crank pulley itself... I was planning to swap it for good measure. I was figuring it would be about $100.00. I about fell out of my chair when I saw this price... $257.44

mitsubishiparts.net/parts/2001/Mitsubishi/Montero%20Sport/XLS?siteid=218241&vehicleid=202711&diagram=F709060&diagramCallOut=32

Ok with a bad catalytic convertor that still needs to be replaced, this is a bit out of budget... gulp...

Can I go with one from the parts store? $109.99

shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorman-oe-solutions-balancer-pulley-assembly-594-056/15950102-P?searchTerm=pulley

www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/PPI0/PB1270N/02316.oap?year=2001&make=Mitsubishi&model=Montero%2BSport&vi=1440850&ck=Search_02316_1440850_1385&pt=02316&ppt=C0332

www.autozone.com/external-engine/harmonic-balancer/dorman-harmonic-balancer/mitsubishi/montero-sport-4wd/2001/6-cylinders-h-3-0l-mfi/309466_172580_0/

Or... Can I continue with my current one and inspect the rubber to be sure its ok? What do I look for? Is there a way to paint a line on it to show if there is excessive play in the 2 halves indicating the balancer rubber is on its way out. remember I bought this with 225,000 on it and I don't know if this is original or not.

[buggzyy]

Pull the damper off inspect the key way slot and the pin hole for wear I had to rig one that wore out the key way on the crank and had to custom make a stepped key to fit the pulley and crank. been 4yrs and still on the road. so if the crank looks ok and you slip the damper on and the key fits snug then your good. make sure you check the bolt threads in the crank and oil the bolt lightly with eng oil before you install and torque to 135ft/lb.

[redraif]

Thanks buggzyy!

The guy who helped me out with it said the keyway was destroyed and he fashioned a new one. I told the shop when they inspected things to be sure all was 100%. I will have them verify the made keyway to be sure it is acceptable or replace it.

[redraif]

Had an enlightening conversation with a member over at expedition portal....

www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/147239-Does-Harmonic-Balancer-need-replacment-Which-do-I-buy-Question-previous-repair

Think my friend lied quite a bit about the repair... check out the thread... I really learned a ton!

I was also given a reference to the balancer/crank pulley thru Dodge for $95. Whew ho!

[moingr]

Hello,
I am reaaly amazed that those bolts on the crankshaft pulley broke more nearly at the same time all over the world...
had the same problem here in Greece...
the car is of 11/2005 and it had the old style bolt, i had it changed to the new one
I also changed the pulley because since it turned with the bolt broken it ended up gaining some gaps and had it to take it out twice (the old one) until replaced.
I changed the parts behind it also up to the camshaft belt sprocket, the cranckshaft position disc was bend and a back shim broken.

i suggest to pay atention to all those small parts, they are not that expensive compared to the labour cost to replace them after.

[redraif]

I sure will thank you!

As for an update on the sport...
The sport started to develop a horrible clattering noise at cold start. I though the crank bolt was back out again, but it tight. Then I wondered was the fan going... but it seemed fine... It was only at clod start and would go away once warmed up. I was assuming the worst... that more damage had happened inside the truck due to the pulley coming loose.

Then I was under the rig to see how my presently oil-free motor's exterior was fairing.... I had recently cleaned the whole motor free from any oil to trace my oil leak. Had a leak made itself known? Well I found a leak, but that is not all I found. I wondered if the leak was the front pass cam seal? This was replaced though... hmmm...

So I was tracing the oil trail up and forward. it was wet right at the alternator, behind the timing cover... Then my flash light hit a glint of metal that did not seem right.... right up above the crank pulley....



Good grief the worn through plastic....



It went straight to the shop. I hope there is nothing seriously destroyed under that cover. talking to the owner enlightened me to the fact that the tech who serviced the sport had many many cars return for stupid mistakes. like leaving off vacuum lines, not running bolts back in... All by the Tech who screwed up the pulley install by not tq the bolt when doing the water pump... He clearly did not install the timing covers right. That or the pulley shifted something and tweaked the cover placement. Either way.... he goofed and this is the result. Shop seems to be willing to cover damages without a fuss. Fingers crossed for the teardown... I gave the shop my the part numbers for the new bolt, washer, timing cover, tensioner, and crank pulley... just my best guess at the obvious visual damage... might even need a new timing belt if it was rubbing the plastic... I'm going to push for as much new as possible, just to be sure there are no issues down the road...

I would assume I'm seeing my tensioner tearing thru the cover. Best guess on why the noise was present at cold start & gone after warm up... The plastic is rigid when cold. The truck starts and the pulley and such scrub the plastic and such. Truck warms up and friction has melted or softened the plastic...aka Noise is now quiet. Let the truck sit overnight and the plastic hardens again... and the noise returns... What yah think?

[jkdv8]

It's good they are fixing the mistakes.

[redraif]

I called yesterday to check in.... he has not dug in all the way yet. AKA... someone else (paying customer) took priority... LOL!

Front desk girl said all 3 serpentine belts and front bearings were $105 in parts. No labor on the belts as they had to be pulled to get to the front of the motor. OK not horrible... but...what's the labor on the bearings?

No idea yet... ugh... Well let me know when you know what the labor is I say... Plus I need to know what is happening with the motor first. That is priority. What is the shop going to cover and what are they not. There might be some surprises in there that I want replaced since he is in there anyway...that is not covered due to the techs mistake (like any oil leaks) I still don't know if the pulley replacement will be on me or them (mine could be ok. I prefer new considering there could have been some hole wear where that pulley wobbled on the loose bolt... All this factors in I say.

Honestly I hope he has the sport apart over the weekend.... I would love to get my hands on the parts and see for myself. Plus I would not mind getting a chance to scrub those parts while they are off the motor to get them looking new again!

[mrgalantguy]

This makes me concerned...I have seen threads on the HB going out and bolts being broken. I even ran into a couple MS for sale with this issue when I was shopping for one.

Makes me thinking of taking a proactive approach and maybe replacing mine and updated bolts before this happens unexpectedly.

[redraif]

Got a report today from the shop. The tech did not tighten any of the bolts to spec under the timing cover. The tensioner bolt had started backing out and the tensioner started rubbing on the lower timing cover... rubbing a hole through it.

Now I'm trying to get the shop to replace the timing cover. Seems they are moving spaces and were just going to button things back up. No way! That cover HAS to be REPLACED! The crank pulley and bolt I already said I wanted replaced. Its the original style, so the truck needs to go to the new improved version at a minimum. He is in a hurry to get it out of the shop. Well I'm in a hurry to get it fixed CORRECTLY!

[bdmontero]

Yes don't budge on your stance. Tell them get it done right and torqued to specs or they will hear from a lawyer. I've done this once with a dealership and they fixed it.

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