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Post by ES_97Sport on Oct 2, 2015 13:41:56 GMT -5
Interesting I'll start looking around Look for one with the dash pod & spare tire carrier. If they have that, it's likely they'll have the locking diff, though no guarantee. Pod isn't earth shattering if it's missing, but the tire carrier important and it's a lot cheaper to get it on the vehicle. I've seen a couple the last few months that were loaded with almost every option known for right in the $4-6K range. IF you stumble on a mind numbing good deal on a '99 Limited 3.5L,you might consider it. Just remember what I said above about the transmission. Edward
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Post by pinstryper on Oct 3, 2015 17:37:29 GMT -5
'A little inexpensive tweaking' I 'm all ears...
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Post by dirk on Oct 3, 2015 22:21:54 GMT -5
I found one of those dash pods on ebay, but doubt mine would be able to use it. Assuming that the wires aew absent in my dash for the pod.So will probably custom build a pod for volt, and oil pressure. The tiltometer would be cool, but haven't found a good alternative yet.
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Post by ES_97Sport on Oct 5, 2015 15:54:49 GMT -5
I found one of those dash pods on ebay, but doubt mine would be able to use it. Assuming that the wires aew absent in my dash for the pod.So will probably custom build a pod for volt, and oil pressure. The tiltometer would be cool, but haven't found a good alternative yet. Yea, you're correct, that won't work. The dash wiring isn't present AFAIK. That's why I said the pod wasn't earth shattering. There are plenty of after market options for doing stuff like that and then you can fit what you want. The Sport doesn't have the inclinometer. That's the Montero pod. That's the easy way to tell the difference. Edward
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Post by ES_97Sport on Oct 5, 2015 16:14:33 GMT -5
'A little inexpensive tweaking' I 'm all ears... 1) Intake air pipe, MAF adapter and filter to replace the stock air box/filter assembly and rubber intake tube. Big Sport has a shortened mid-90s Honda/Acura pipe. I'm working on a DC pipe now as an alternative. I run the K&N FIPK kit for the GT3000 - that has the MAF adapter (which is very well designed) and a huge K&N filter. There are alternative pieces from the Eclipse, GT3000, EVO, Gallant, Diamonte, etc. that all fit - same MAF. Plus, you need a couple 3" couplings from some place like AutoZone. 2) Custom 2.25" exhaust conversion from the CAT to the rear of the vehicle. Actually you do the exhaust from the elbow that houses the rear O2 sensor and bolts TO the CAT. 2.25" pipe, straighten out the bends, replace the stock 55 gal drum muffler with a Flowmaster 2.25" center-in, center-out. 3) For non-AWD Sports, manual locking hubs for the front & Rancho RS5000 steering stabilizer/mount kit (for the Montero). #1 - $180 for the FIPK kit, $35 for Specter air pipe, and $10-15 for a couple rubber couplings. #2 - $170 exhaust shop labor, $140 for the Flowmaster muffler. #3 - $150 last time I saw a set, $15 for a cheap 3/8" metric socket set and 1/2 hour of your time. +/- 10% depending on where you shop. Actually, the current shop charged me $170 three months ago to replace the entire exhaust from the Y pipe back. There's not a hell of a lot of labor involved in our exhausts. But, that's about what the last couple other shops have charged to do the 'CAT-back' setup. #3 will help with power and gas mileage irrespective of what else you do. Also cuts down on wear and tear in the front drive train. #1 and #2 BOTH need to be done to get any real affect, otherwise you might as well not bother. One or the other doesn't do anything noticeable. Edward
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Post by pinstryper on Oct 5, 2015 18:26:36 GMT -5
So #3 then, any other compatable locking hubs interchange?
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Post by pinstryper on Oct 15, 2015 17:30:40 GMT -5
Lookee what I got...
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Post by dirk on Oct 15, 2015 17:35:52 GMT -5
Big thumbs up. Are those the non Aisin ones? They look good. Let us know how they work for you.
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Post by pinstryper on Oct 15, 2015 17:53:21 GMT -5
These are non Aisin but Visa is your friend. Did find Aisin on amazon 98$ each. Nitwit with superwinch would not accept my mailing him a check to Minnesota one hub looked like something found on a wreck dive anyway.
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Post by ES_97Sport on Oct 15, 2015 18:46:08 GMT -5
Lookee what I got... Nice, VERY nice! Don't forget a steering stabilizer. You might want that after you put the hubs on. Steering gets real lite. Edward
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Post by dirk on Oct 15, 2015 18:59:09 GMT -5
I still need to install the stabilizer also. But one step at a time lol. I know with minimal mods you can install it. But will it still fit with out any issues with the stock skid plates?
I know there are atleast a couple of rubber parts in the suspension in need of repair. (Rear stabilizer bushings look like they are about to fall apart ) And I have noticed what seems to be a dead spot with a little play when steering wheel is dead center. (Maybe Lash adjustment) Once all my suspension/steering is 100% IL add the stabilizer.
Tomorrow I'm putting in a new fuel filter. And a replacing a couple more vacoom lines to the free wheel clutch selenoid.
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Post by pinstryper on Oct 15, 2015 20:33:41 GMT -5
Same here, did stabilizer bar bushings Tue/Wed after work. Put new dome light switch/overhead door pulls tonight. And some LED's in the overhead console.
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Post by ES_97Sport on Oct 16, 2015 14:42:09 GMT -5
I still need to install the stabilizer also. But one step at a time lol. I know with minimal mods you can install it. But will it still fit with out any issues with the stock skid plates? ?? There are no mods. The stabilizer is a bolt on from Rancho. RS5000 stabilizer and the Montero install kit. It clears everything just fine. 4x4extremesports.com - Rancho Steering Stabilizer Installation under SUV ModsCheck your steering column for vertical play. Just grab it and try to move it up and down. If its got play, its time for a column replacement. That's what happens when people use the steering wheel to help get in and out of the vehicle. BIG no-no! Then check the box. Center the steering wheel, and then turn the vehicle off. If you're not sure you can judge, get a second person. Tell them to look very closely at the Pitman arm and make sure there's NO movement while you're doing the following. You turn the steering wheel very lightly to the left until there's resistance. You shouldn't need anymore force than you can supply with one finger. Turn the wheel to the right until the same thing happens. There should be something like 10 mm of 'free play'. More than that and you'll need to adjust the screw on the steering box. Check the FSMs 'cause I don't remember the exact number. I've done this so many times I can do it by eye now. After you've done all this, if you still have the 'dead spot', it could be the intermediate shaft between the steering column and the steering box inside the engine bay. This is a dampened shaft and after a couple hundred thousand miles it starts getting 'sloppy'. That's relative, of course. You can't see it move or measure the play, but the rubber 'damper' starts getting squishy, for lack of a better word. That allows the two shafts to move independently of each other more than they should. Be REAL DANG CAREFUL doing the fuel filter. Make sure you use a flare wrench and not just a crescent or open end wrench. If you round that nut off you will be well and truly screwed. I got in a hurry and did that and ended up not being able to replace the filter. I never could find a flare nut that would fit the filter so I couldn't even cut it off, re-flare the tube and put the new filter on. I finally got that fixed when I had to replace the entire fuel line two years ago because it cracked in the engine bay - side effect of breaking the DR frame rail in UT. Edward
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Post by dirk on Dec 15, 2015 1:36:33 GMT -5
I finally got around to getting the kit orsdered for my steering stabalizer. I ordered the stabalizer a while bacxk, but had to finish Xmas shopping b4 buying ther install kit. Now just to wait for spring lol
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