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Post by bdmontero on Oct 26, 2015 9:44:11 GMT -5
Well being awhile since I did my contour swap inline with what Ed did, I figured I would give a detailed description of what I did. I purchased a dual Ford Contour fan assembly from Dorman and wired the fan motors up to an Anderson HD welding connector. If you can find the factory male female connectors then that's better! I used the factory Ford connectors for the fan and I HIGHLY suggest buying REAL OEM connectors. And had the fans wired up to a orielly version fan controller. It was cheap but worked.(kind of) Up until recently I had issues with the motor getting warm.(Not overheating though.) So I triple checked the stock radiator recently and found some pinholes. Yay!!!!  never noticed it on the ground though??? So I purchased a new radiator and installed it with a NEW painless F5 30-140 fan controller. Man!!! This thing is sweet! I mounted it by the rear right firewall but realized a facepalm moment. INSIDE THE CAB NOT OUTSIDE! DOH!!! So I will do that this week. But overall I am beyond pleased. I knew the fans weren't reaching their full potential but they are now!! Thank you Ed for the fan mod and I will try and help other people with theirs if need be. I also need to wire loom that danged winch lead. ( face palm) lol that's what I forgot to do too. Lol Addendum Edward did your radiator have any play room? Like wiggle back a and forth or up and down? I noticed with the old one it did. This new one it doesn't move at all with the rubber stops on bottom. Is it supposed to have play room for vibrations/ bumps?  ? Sent from my SM-N900V using proboards Attachments:
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Post by pinstryper on Oct 26, 2015 10:08:43 GMT -5
Ford contour rad fans? Link?
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Post by dirk on Oct 26, 2015 10:24:28 GMT -5
Do you take off that section of pulley that drives the fan belt? And your new radiator have the foam that takes up the space in front of it? My foam has completely disintegrated so alot of air is going around the radiator. No heat issues but know it effects efficiency.that might be why the new one has no wiggle room. After exhaust change this is on the to do list. Seems like my to do list grows as fast as it shrinks lol
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Post by bdmontero on Oct 26, 2015 12:06:49 GMT -5
The fans sell all day long on eBay. Just buy a good one. Like a Dorman or motorcraft or OEM fan assembly. 2000 Ford contour mystique cougar. Ive had zero problems with mine ( so far) crossing fingers knocking on wood) lol I know Ed said he ended up getting Factory Ford OEM fan motors and they performed even better.
Sent from my SM-N900V using proboards
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Post by bdmontero on Oct 26, 2015 12:08:28 GMT -5
dirk. I took off the fan/fan clutch assembly and put the bolts back in with a dab of blue loctite. My foam is there but wouldn't hurt to put new foam in. Easy and cheap to get, kind of like Kim kardashian. ;D ;D ;D ;D Sent from my SM-N900V using proboards
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Post by ES_97Sport on Oct 26, 2015 16:34:55 GMT -5
... Addendum Edward did your radiator have any play room? Like wiggle back a and forth or up and down? I noticed with the old one it did. This new one it doesn't move at all with the rubber stops on bottom. Is it supposed to have play room for vibrations/ bumps? ? Yep. All of my stock ones do. Except, maybe, my '99. It was driving me nuts so I replaced the top two mounts on the big Sport 5-6 years ago. Then I promptly swapped in a non-stock radiator. Doh! Real effective. :rolleyes:  They don't start out that way, though, and replacing the top mounts snugged mine up smartly.  The bottom ones seem to be fine. They're snug enough that they always come out with the radiator when I pull the radiator. Just the top ones that seem to get loose. What difference does this make? Beats me. I've NEVER had a stock radiator problem on any Sport of mine or on anyone else's Sport. Though I'm not a fan of aluminum/plastic radiators, I've been pretty impresses with ours. I replaced the radiator in '08/09 I think. Right close to there. It'd been 'wobbly' probably since the early '00s. With as much off road as it saw I'd figure if there was going to be a problem, I would have seen it before then. Hard mounting radiators is problematical in off road vehicles. As much as the Sport chassis and body flex, I've always been a little more inclined to leave it a bit loose rather than go the other way. Edward |
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Post by ES_97Sport on Oct 26, 2015 16:52:39 GMT -5
The fans sell all day long on eBay. Just buy a good one. Like a Dorman or motorcraft or OEM fan assembly. 2000 Ford contour mystique cougar. Ive had zero problems with mine ( so far) crossing fingers knocking on wood) lol I know Ed said he ended up getting Factory Ford OEM fan motors and they performed even better. Ford Contour v6. They are all over the salvage yards, even here. Hit up a pick-a-part place and grab the entire fan assembly with the harness. Make sure you get both sides - the fan side and the body side. A LOT cheaper than buying connectors. 30 amp connectors are not cheap. I got the entire thing for $5. If you get a shroud in good shape, you can buy the motors. Just swap them out. A pair of motors is STILL cheaper than the entire assembly. Cheap socket set and a small screw driver. Took me about 30 minutes to swap both motors. Yea, I don't know what's up with the Ford motors but they're a LOT stronger than the ones I got from Rock Auto. On a stock Sport, though, I think they'd be overkill. I never had a problem keeping the stock 3.0L cool in my big Sport. The Ford motors have been a HUGE help with the 3.5L, though. BTW, for all the power leads, make sure you solder your connections. So, if you splice the OEM plugs in, solder the joints! Believe me, crimps may work now and they may work a year from now, and two years from now, but eventually one of them is going to fail. 20-30 amps through a circuit in a failing joint is going to create a LOT of heat and that's going to make it even worse. Then you're going to start having weird, untraceable bizarre behavior in your electrical system. And, make sure you shrink wrap everything - not the cheap crap, either, the stuff with the glue inside. I'm in the process of rebuilding my entire aftermarket headlight harness because apparently the guy that designed and built it was an electrical moron.  Two unsealed relays, half a dozen corroded crimps. Two of which got hot enough to melt the relays. This for a product that wouldn't be used anywhere but an engine bay. :rolleyes: Sigh. Edward |
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Post by bdmontero on Oct 26, 2015 17:05:22 GMT -5
Ed there are zero yards around my house. I've looked and looked and looked and looked online. If you're at the pull apart yard soon can you grab me two male and two female factory connectors please? I will obviously pay you for them and shipping. The big two wire ones. The males look like this. I don't mind using the Anderson connectors but want something 100% watertight and OEM. And yes not only did I solder, I cleaned the the stripped area of wire, soldered used liquid tape over the bare soldered wire, slid the heat shrink over that and heat shrinked the wire. Then I put tape over that area and used conduit covering. Overkill but I know it will last longer than I'm alive. Lol;D Sent from my SM-N900V using proboards Attachments:
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Post by ES_97Sport on Oct 26, 2015 17:19:33 GMT -5
Ed there are zero yards around my house. I've looked and looked and looked and looked online. If you're at the pull apart yard soon can you grab me two male and two female factory connectors please? I will obviously pay you for them and shipping. The big two wire ones. The males look like this. I don't mind using the Anderson connectors but want something 100% watertight and OEM. Yep, I know the connectors. Problem is I'm an hour from the nearest yard. I need to hit them up, though, 'cause I need to pick up the assembly for my '99. I'll try this coming weekend, but the weather is supposed to change to snow end of this week. Sigh. If I can, though, I'll grab extras and let you know. Last time I was there they had about 2 dozen cars. Hopefully no one else has had the same idea.  No fan assemblies. All of them were damaged. Edward |
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Post by bdmontero on Oct 26, 2015 17:20:55 GMT -5
Thanks I really appreciate it. I'll try going to pull apart here Saturday and look and try to get spares as well but like you said its over an hour away. Sent from my SM-N900V using proboards |
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Post by pinstryper on Oct 26, 2015 18:30:51 GMT -5
The above photo is of the. V6 contour connetctor right?
I take it all of our wiring to redo is in the engine bay?
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Post by bdmontero on Oct 26, 2015 18:58:57 GMT -5
Its one of them. The male power connector. There are the male connector and female connector. I believe Ed got the connectors off two donor cars. The fan motors take these. GET THE OEM ONES. The cheap aftermarket ones pull apart at the metal spade. Yes if you get the painless wiring harness it comes with EVERYTHING you need. Even the heat shrink. Other than solder and a butane torch. Each individual wire is labeled and says where to go. Pretty dummy proof. I had a total brain collapse and need to rewire it in the cab. Use a SMALL SMALL Philips or flat head to GENTLY GENTLY adjust the two pots. Oh and they HIGHLY DISCOURAGE using a different temp sensor than the one that comes with the kit. Sent from my SM-N900V using proboards Attachments:
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Post by pinstryper on Oct 26, 2015 19:55:00 GMT -5
Painless wiring harness? Will our stock wiring handle the amperage.
Just use the ford connection?
Our hdlmp wiring is pretty cheesy though.
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Post by bdmontero on Oct 26, 2015 20:00:37 GMT -5
Its the F5 controller that handles everything. Look up the specs on it.
Sent from my SM-N900V using proboards
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Post by dirk on Oct 27, 2015 10:19:56 GMT -5
Did you upgrade your alternator also? I know have seen it mentioned about the extra amp draw. If it is needed I'll be bummed out. Just put a new mitsu alternator on about 8 months ago. If it wasn't 18 below zero when I needed to fix it I would have the local alternator shop rebuild it to High output. They did that for my last car and the extra amperage came in handy with the wayyyy over the top stereo I used to run.
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? 
Two unsealed relays, half a dozen corroded crimps. Two of which got hot enough to melt the relays. This for a product that wouldn't be used anywhere but an engine bay. :rolleyes: Sigh.
No fan assemblies. All of them were damaged. 