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Post by sport03 on Nov 24, 2015 14:44:47 GMT -5
I was taking a look at the Montero sport I recently got yesterday and I was looking around and opened the radiator cap and noticed a milky residue. I checked the oil and it looked clean and clear like it was recently changed.
Now I'm not sure if that's a sign of a head gasket or not. And I cannot tell because as of right now I have 3 clogged cats and it runs rough because of that I hope. It's a 03 Montero sport 3.5 with 194,000 miles. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Post by ES_97Sport on Nov 24, 2015 17:20:50 GMT -5
I was taking a look at the Montero sport I recently got yesterday and I was looking around and opened the radiator cap and noticed a milky residue. I checked the oil and it looked clean and clear like it was recently changed. Now I'm not sure if that's a sign of a head gasket or not. And I cannot tell because as of right now I have 3 clogged cats and it runs rough because of that I hope. It's a 03 Montero sport 3.5 with 194,000 miles. Any help would be greatly appreciated. If they ran it rich like you were saying in your other post, you don't have clogged CATs, you have NO CATs. Running rich will burn the catalytic material right out of the shell and fry the O2 sensors. I didn't take any pictures this spring. Not sure you would be able to tell if I had. But, there was nothing left inside mine except the base. You could look straight through from one end to the the other. Nothing like the new one.  You can have a head gasket leak from a cylinder to a water passage, a cylinder to an oil passage or a water passage to an oil passage (or vica versa). Or 'D' all of the above.  Cylinder to water passage is going to result in a blown radiator or heater core - or both - eventually. Cylinder compression test for this issue. Same test for leak to oil passage. As bad a shape as that Sport is in, its hard to tell. It may just be that the cooling system is in desperate need of being flushed. The fact that the oil looks new could have been an attempt to cover up the fact that it has a head gasket leak. What I would suggest is having a cooling system flush done, keep an eye on the oil and see if this shows up again. On the other hand, you're due for valve stem seals and those boots that seal the valve covers from the spark plugs and probably cam bore seals. By the time you get the top end tore that far down, pulling the heads and replacing the gaskets is like only an additional hour and a half or two of work. Edward |
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Post by ES_97Sport on Nov 24, 2015 17:21:01 GMT -5
I was taking a look at the Montero sport I recently got yesterday and I was looking around and opened the radiator cap and noticed a milky residue. I checked the oil and it looked clean and clear like it was recently changed. Now I'm not sure if that's a sign of a head gasket or not. And I cannot tell because as of right now I have 3 clogged cats and it runs rough because of that I hope. It's a 03 Montero sport 3.5 with 194,000 miles. Any help would be greatly appreciated. If they ran it rich like you were saying in your other post, you don't have clogged CATs, you have NO CATs. Running rich will burn the catalytic material right out of the shell. I didn't take any pictures this spring. Not sure you would be able to tell if I had. But, there was nothing left inside mine except the base. You could look straight through from one end to the the other. Nothing like the new one. You can have a head gasket leak from a cylinder to a water passage, a cylinder to an oil passage or a water passage to an oil passage (or vica versa). Or 'D' all of the above. Cylinder to water passage is going to result in a blown radiator or heater core - or both - eventually. Cylinder compression test for this issue. Same test for leak to oil passage. As bad a shape as that Sport is in, its hard to tell. It may just be that the cooling system is in desperate need of being flushed. The fact that the oil looks new could have been an attempt to cover up the fact that it has a head gasket leak. What I would suggest is having a cooling system flush done, keep an eye on the oil and see if this shows up again. On the other hand, you're due for valve stem seals and those boots that seal the valve covers from the spark plugs and probably cam bore seals. By the time you get the top end tore that far down, pulling the heads and replacing the gaskets is like only an additional hour and a half or two of work. Edward |
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Post by sport03 on Nov 24, 2015 17:37:03 GMT -5
So now I'm wondering why it's running bad if it's not cats
The owner said because of cats, that's why it was running bad.
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Post by sport03 on Nov 24, 2015 17:48:21 GMT -5
Opened the radiator again and the fluid is dark brown and feels oily
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Post by sport03 on Nov 24, 2015 17:59:32 GMT -5
Also when I first start it it runs very rough, when I give it has it some what smooths out, maybe a misfir? The exhaust is a light blue and smells like gas. No white smoke
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Post by ES_97Sport on Nov 24, 2015 18:35:31 GMT -5
So now I'm wondering why it's running bad if it's not cats The owner said because of cats, that's why it was running bad. Have you checked for OBD codes? You haven't mentioned if the CEL is on. Edward |
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Post by ES_97Sport on Nov 24, 2015 18:40:55 GMT -5
Opened the radiator again and the fluid is dark brown and feels oily 'Dark brown' or more redish? Either way that's not good. Its also possible you have a cracked block or head. Although, that should show up pretty quickly with antifreeze in the oil. Well, fuel smell out the exhaust could be caused by several things. Even something as simple as worn out plugs but most things will trigger CEL and one or more codes. Sounds to me like your 'CAT' issue is more than CATs. First, something had to make it run rich enough to burn out the CATs and that's usually because of one or more blown O2 sensors. So, back to my other post ... do you have any OBD codes and is the CEL on? Edward |
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Post by dclambertt on Nov 24, 2015 18:44:49 GMT -5
Previous owner sounds like a DOG owner, blaming CATs for all the probs... definitely sounds like you got a cylinder or two misfiring. Got ODB2?
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Post by sport03 on Nov 24, 2015 19:42:52 GMT -5
No CEL. Tried to pull codes with my reader and no codes but it did connect. I disconnected both rear oxygen sensors and still no CEL.
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Post by sport03 on Nov 24, 2015 19:47:28 GMT -5
I have a feeling that I'm having a misfire issue due to neglect but I wouldn't know due to no codes coming up
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Post by ES_97Sport on Nov 24, 2015 19:58:24 GMT -5
No CEL. Tried to pull codes with my reader and no codes but it did connect. I disconnected both rear oxygen sensors and still no CEL. Disconnecting the rear O2 sensors may or may not trigger an OBD code. On the Gen 1, it will not. At least not immediately, and then only tangentially. Edward |
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Post by sport03 on Nov 24, 2015 20:00:33 GMT -5
No CEL. Tried to pull codes with my reader and no codes but it did connect. I disconnected both rear oxygen sensors and still no CEL. Disconnecting the rear O2 sensors may or may not trigger an OBD code. On the Gen 1, it will not. At least not immediately, and then only tangentially. Edward If I had any sort of misfire shouldn't that trigger a code? Or even a code for the cat? |
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Post by ES_97Sport on Nov 24, 2015 20:02:32 GMT -5
I have a feeling that I'm having a misfire issue due to neglect but I wouldn't know due to no codes coming up First thing I'd do is ship that thing straight down the the dealership and have a competent tech do a once-over. That's going to be a lot cheaper than you chasing your tail. The easiest way to start diagnosing some of this stuff is with a scanner like ScanXL. Something that lets you do a real time look into what everything's doing. Which isn't going to be cheap, hence, spending $150 for a tech to just figure out everything, write it down and then you'll know. This things sounds like a worse basket case than my new '99. I just made sure that all the 'issues' were in the suspension and drive train. Still cost $9K to get it all fixed. Edward |
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Post by sport03 on Nov 24, 2015 20:12:30 GMT -5
I have a feeling that I'm having a misfire issue due to neglect but I wouldn't know due to no codes coming up First thing I'd do is ship that thing straight down the the dealership and have a competent tech do a once-over. That's going to be a lot cheaper than you chasing your tail. The easiest way to start diagnosing some of this stuff is with a scanner like ScanXL. Something that lets you do a real time look into what everything's doing. Which isn't going to be cheap, hence, spending $150 for a tech to just figure out everything, write it down and then you'll know. This things sounds like a worse basket case than my new '99. I just made sure that all the 'issues' were in the suspension and drive train. Still cost $9K to get it all fixed. Edward That sounds like a good idea  ? I might just for the heck of it pull a plug wire from a coil one by one and see if I get a change in RPM maybe and hopefully it's misfire issue |
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? I might just for the heck of it pull a plug wire from a coil one by one and see if I get a change in RPM maybe and hopefully it's misfire issue