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Post by pinstryper on Dec 20, 2015 18:45:48 GMT -5
How about steering column? And would the shifter need that extension?
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Post by ES_97Sport on Dec 21, 2015 13:54:26 GMT -5
... Thought this might help us get our heads around this... ... This is extraordinarily helpful. I was going to look this up this weekend but got side tracked sorting out brake stuff. Edward
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Post by ES_97Sport on Dec 21, 2015 14:07:37 GMT -5
How about steering column? And would the shifter need that extension? The A/T shifter is ok. I don't remember from the Montero guys whether the cable/linkage is long enough for a 3". I seem to remember someone having issues with this back 10+ years ago, but .... 4Crawler makes an extension for the shifter handle on the Toy which I THINK would work on the M/T and t-case shifters. Personally, dropping the shifters 2"+ would be extremely awkward for me. @ 6' I have to have the seat back as it is. Loosing height on the shifters would be a pain. And, of course, now I can't find it on his site. Sigh. Guys have done the 2" before on the Sports and I don't remember anyone mentioning the column. The column is bolted to the dash via 2 bolts - one on either side - in slotted bracket. The bolts rest sit in V's on either side of the column. When I moved the steering box forward 1.5", I fabed tabs that the bolt runs through and clamps down on the V. Its not high-tech but it works. So, there is a reasonable amount of room to move the steering column a bit. For me this actually worked well. Its actually more comfortable with the steering wheel further forward. Edward
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Post by redraif on Dec 28, 2015 13:21:28 GMT -5
Red, what did you do, a 3 inch lift? 2 inch... used 2 inch wide and 3 inch wide blocks. So these spacers are made of metal? I thought they were some hard plastic. But they do have cushion top/bottom? Guess I need to read my FSM mine are plastic. the 4crawler kit is another material.. the factory set up has a rubber that you leave in place. You just add the spacer. However there are replacements for the rubber that you can get in polyurethane if I remember correctly. At some point I will swap mine to the poly as mile are original with 250,000 miles How about steering column? And would the shifter need that extension? I did not need an extension for either with the 2 inch lift... I have an auto trans
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Post by ES_97Sport on Dec 28, 2015 13:29:31 GMT -5
So these spacers are made of metal? I thought they were some hard plastic. But they do have cushion top/bottom? Guess I need to read my FSM Stock ones are rubber with giant metal washers. Aftermarket are a variety. Nylon, poly, plastic, other non-metal, etc. And the old style aluminum. DO NOT use the aluminum ones! You don't want metal spacers for a body lift. Edward
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Post by ES_97Sport on Dec 28, 2015 17:59:09 GMT -5
Red, what did you do, a 3 inch lift? 2 inch... used 2 inch wide and 3 inch wide blocks. redraif, I started looking at the brake stuff under the hood. The proportioning valve is on the PS frame rail in front of the firewall. The lines that run from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve are attached to the firewall. What did you do there to deal with the 2" increase from body to frame? BTW, my 2" body lift form 4Crawler showed up this weekend. I haven't had time to unbox it but I'll take a look at it and snap some pics. Been working on brake stuff for the last week and a half. Edward
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Post by pinstryper on Dec 28, 2015 19:59:38 GMT -5
let us know what it looks like, and what #s you ordered. Maybe its my hangover but it seems complicated ordering from that page.
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Post by redraif on Dec 29, 2015 12:40:24 GMT -5
redraif, I started looking at the brake stuff under the hood. The proportioning valve is on the PS frame rail in front of the firewall. The lines that run from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve are attached to the firewall. What did you do there to deal with the 2" increase from body to frame? BTW, my 2" body lift form 4Crawler showed up this weekend. I haven't had time to unbox it but I'll take a look at it and snap some pics. Been working on brake stuff for the last week and a half. Edward I traced the brake lines and disconnected every bracket I could that was attached to both body and frame, from the body and frame to let the lines have some extra slack. I did this nose to tail. Even the parking brake cable brackets. I don't recall having any line that gave me issue except the front ones in the fender wells because the brackets would not allow the line to come completely out. Now when things went back together I refastened only the lines that had enough slack to let them go back easily into place. There were a few that I left disconnected or zip tied instead, to give them slack but keep them out of harms way. I did the same for electrical and vacuum lines... Now that you say that... I will have to look back at the sport, but I don't recall any issues with the lines between the master and prop. In fact, I don't recall messing with them at all. I just detached the brackets that held them to the frame rail... Grief... you got me scratching my head thinking I missed something or am having a brain fart and can't remember... EEK! Looks like I will be crawling around with a flashlight under the hood... :/ Ok looking a pics of the Sport... (below) is this the area in question? Where the lines go down to the frame rail? Or is this something else with lines that look like brake lines... LOL! Cause if I'm thinking right... the prop and master are attached to the body on mine. Now Maybe I'm looking at the wrong thing since I'm going the old picture route and am still learning this truck. If so PLEASE excuse my ignorance. The prop on the fender wheel and the master to the firewall. Anything between them would be to the firewall and be safe... now the lines going down to the frame rail below... I would have let the brackets loose for movement...
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Post by redraif on Dec 31, 2015 12:27:20 GMT -5
.... truncated ... mid body there is one funky mount, can't remember if it is 3 or 4... will have to crawl under to verify... Its right by the fuel filter... It has a large circular metal piece. I'm not sure what it is for exactly. It used an additional washer and bolt. all together prior to disassembly took of the first bolt...and this came off this was what remained on the body... you can see the fuel filter now removed the rest... here is how it goes together less the body mount still stuck on the body... I'm trying to rememeber if I needed a longer bolt for this. I don't remember buying an extra long one... .... truncated ... Just to add to my original post... Here is where the one odd ball mount, with the extra huge washer like piece, is located... below the rear door... Here was bolt length on the odd mount after the 2 inch lift... versus the bolt length on the ones without the extra huge washer like piece. So that being said (seen) I used the same bolts all the way around. They had just enough extra threads left to let me add the washer like piece on without issue.
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Post by redraif on Dec 31, 2015 12:34:32 GMT -5
redraif, I started looking at the brake stuff under the hood. The proportioning valve is on the PS frame rail in front of the firewall. The lines that run from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve are attached to the firewall. What did you do there to deal with the 2" increase from body to frame? BTW, my 2" body lift form 4Crawler showed up this weekend. I haven't had time to unbox it but I'll take a look at it and snap some pics. Been working on brake stuff for the last week and a half. Edward I traced the brake lines and disconnected every bracket I could that was attached to both body and frame, from the body and frame to let the lines have some extra slack. I did this nose to tail. Even the parking brake cable brackets. I don't recall having any line that gave me issue except the front ones in the fender wells because the brackets would not allow the line to come completely out. Now when things went back together I refastened only the lines that had enough slack to let them go back easily into place. There were a few that I left disconnected or zip tied instead, to give them slack but keep them out of harms way. I did the same for electrical and vacuum lines... Now that you say that... I will have to look back at the sport, but I don't recall any issues with the lines between the master and prop. In fact, I don't recall messing with them at all. I just detached the brackets that held them to the frame rail... Grief... you got me scratching my head thinking I missed something or am having a brain fart and can't remember... EEK! Looks like I will be crawling around with a flashlight under the hood... :/ Ok looking a pics of the Sport... (below) is this the area in question? Where the lines go down to the frame rail? Or is this something else with lines that look like brake lines... LOL! Cause if I'm thinking right... the prop and master are attached to the body on mine. Now Maybe I'm looking at the wrong thing since I'm going the old picture route and am still learning this truck. If so PLEASE excuse my ignorance. The prop on the fender wheel and the master to the firewall. Anything between them would be to the firewall and be safe... now the lines going down to the frame rail below... I would have let the brackets loose for movement... Did some more looking on this last night... if what is in the pics is indeed the prop valve... none of these are attached to my frame rail. everything is attached to the body, with a single line running down to the front passenger brake, just like the drivers side.... so maybe this is a difference in the newer body style? Edward... please chime in and add some pics of what you are seeing in your bay... pointing out any differences in the 2 generations will indeed help others with their lifts... esp when I get this DIY completed...
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Post by ES_97Sport on Dec 31, 2015 17:12:57 GMT -5
... Did some more looking on this last night... if what is in the pics is indeed the prop valve... none of these are attached to my frame rail. everything is attached to the body, with a single line running down to the front passenger brake, just like the drivers side.... so maybe this is a difference in the newer body style? Edward... please chime in and add some pics of what you are seeing in your bay... pointing out any differences in the 2 generations will indeed help others with their lifts... esp when I get this DIY completed... The proportioning valve is to the right of the ABS controller/pump and straight down. Its mounted to the inside of the PS frame rail - between the frame rail and the PS exhaust manifold. Its really hard to see, but it's there. Same location for Gen 1 and Gen 2, ABS/non-ABS. I'll snap some pics tomorrow. I have my '99 home finally and that has ABS. Looks something like this, but probably bare iron casting. Edward
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Post by redraif on Dec 31, 2015 21:38:34 GMT -5
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Post by pinstryper on Jan 1, 2016 12:56:41 GMT -5
Paul shipped my kit last night, and I just spoke to him Wed. Now that's some fast service...
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Post by ES_97Sport on Jan 1, 2016 18:07:18 GMT -5
Ok... found the dang thing.... sheesh I'm way to used to gm... lol... .... Cool. That's it. Me too! I don't think they could have done a better job hiding it. Brain damage! You are right, its not mounted on the frame rail. Its mounted ABOVE the frame rail. Sigh. Edward
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Post by redraif on Jan 1, 2016 20:50:52 GMT -5
Whew! Cause i was panicked thinking i missed it and had kinked my lines or worse... lol
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