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Exhaust
Feb 14, 2016 23:42:46 GMT -5
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Post by dirk on Feb 14, 2016 23:42:46 GMT -5
So I have finally gotten my first exhaust leak. I'm not sure yet if it is pipe, gasket, or worst case scenario a manafold. If a gasket then I'll just replace it, if a manafold then replace it. But if anything in a pipe I'll finally take the plunge and upgrade my exhaust. I've already done the injen intake and manual hubs, exhaust was on the too list anyways.
I know a stainless steel exhaust that is mandrel bent with a 2.25" inner diameter pipes and a low restriction muffler is what we want especially living in the salt belt.
I have been calling around the local area, and there are places that do custom exhausts but aluminized steel. Or stainless steel but not mandrel bent, or places that do stock replacements, etc.
So I have a couple of questions, first with all the reading on the subject I haven't been able to find what the stock inner diameter is. Also seen mention of people liking gibson mufflers. No mention of their cat back systems. Specifically the model 314100. Everywhere online lists it as a direct bolt in, it is mandrel bent and it is 2.25". It includes a performance muffler and tailpipe. At 335.00 it is a chunk of change but if it is something I can do myself then it's not too bad. Also has anyone purchased this exhaust system? If so anyone want to chime in on quality/ sound/ performance.
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Exhaust
Feb 15, 2016 11:12:26 GMT -5
Post by redraif on Feb 15, 2016 11:12:26 GMT -5
Are you going to go off road at all? I only ask, because I have read the stock tail pipe is bad about hanging up. That might factor into you buying a production unit.
As for mandrel bends. To get a custom mandrel bent stainless exhaust done on the firebird, I had to buy the bends at summit and have the shop weld them together. Most shops will not have a mandrel bender.
So I say all that to say, that if you are going off road ever, you might not want the stock configuration anyway. You could get together with a shop and have them map out a route and what bends you need for a shortened system. Not sure what will be most cost effective. IF you shorten the exhaust so it does not go over the rear axle, you could save yourself a lot of bends. I've heard folks talk on here of a shop doing a system for under $200.00. Again if you can minimize your bends...
As for mufflers... I have listened to different sounds online. I'm still partial to flowmaster. I know that is what Edward is running and is happy with.
Sorry I have nothing to add about the Gibson
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Exhaust
Feb 15, 2016 21:06:56 GMT -5
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Post by dirk on Feb 15, 2016 21:06:56 GMT -5
I doubt I will be going rock crawlimg, but I do mild off roading on logging and hunting trails now, some stumps and small rocks mud and ruts.
So with the 2 inch body, and 2 inch suspension lifts, think the exhaust will still be a catch point?
As for straightening it, over the rear axle is the stock location. I have read about straightening out to help flow but if the exhaust isn't over the axle,or just over the axle wouldn't it interfere with the suspension or get hit by the axle?
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Exhaust
Feb 15, 2016 21:36:29 GMT -5
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Post by redraif on Feb 15, 2016 21:36:29 GMT -5
Edward will have to chime in on how often the tail pipe catches. I just remember reading and him mentioning the tail pipe is a drag point. As far as the over the axle... some do a turn down before the axle... was hoping some of the experienced folks would chime in. Im still in the begining phases of planning my exhaust routing. I will probably exit mine infront of the rear tire. Always wanted a side exhaust... just have to figure how to do it since i plan to eventually add the rock skids on the sides in place of the side steps
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Exhaust
Feb 16, 2016 0:25:12 GMT -5
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Post by dirk on Feb 16, 2016 0:25:12 GMT -5
Wonder if it would be a good idea to make an aluminum insert into the rear bumper and route the tail pipe through it. I know it couldn't be to tight of a fit though because of the body flex etc, I am sure that my exhaust pipes shift around a fair bit also.
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Post by ES_97Sport on Feb 19, 2016 16:15:08 GMT -5
Edward will have to chime in on how often the tail pipe catches. ALL THE TIME. I managed to not hit anything on my little '97 and my '03 when I took them to UT, even the running boards on the '03 but still managed to ding the exhaust tip pretty good on both and I don't even know how. With the Flowmaster that isn't an issue. Straight back, up and over. Do not do that. Its a PITA on a car, but on a vehicle that sees any off road use, they'll end up crushed. The exhaust runs on the inside of the frame rail, so the pipe would have to be routed under the frame rail, in front of the rear spring hanger/control arm mount, between the tire and rock skid. You'd be lucky if that pipe lasted one trip and when you did hit it you'd tear the entire exhaust off the vehicle. Best bet is to bit the bullet and route it over the axle like I did and exit it in the stock location but redesign the outlet. Mine is flush with the body and turned down just a hair lower. Have yet to hit it on anything. Edward
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Exhaust
Feb 19, 2016 16:19:27 GMT -5
Post by ES_97Sport on Feb 19, 2016 16:19:27 GMT -5
Wonder if it would be a good idea to make an aluminum insert into the rear bumper and route the tail pipe through it. I know it couldn't be to tight of a fit though because of the body flex etc, I am sure that my exhaust pipes shift around a fair bit also. I've seen this on trucks and buggies. It works to varying degrees. Depends on how small/big the outlet is in relation to the pipe. I only have maybe 1/2" between the body/frame, etc. and pipe and even under the hardest wheeling the pipe never contacts anything. This is not a particularly bad idea. I'm not so sure how easy it would be for those of us with Gen 1's though. We have leaf springs to deal with back there. Edward
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Exhaust
Feb 20, 2016 4:21:28 GMT -5
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Post by dirk on Feb 20, 2016 4:21:28 GMT -5
Well I dropped off the MS at the mitsubishi dealer, they are replacing the rear head O ring seals, (no garage and winter) free wheel clutch vacuum lines (one was leaking and tired of having to spray it with silicone spray everyone I run it through the wash), and locating exhaust leak (s) hoping it is all behind the cats or is just a gasket or 2. Fingers crossed, if behind cats will finally have the reason to upgrade the exhaust. But will probably just get the gibson cat back system. No one locally is interested or capable of a custom exhaust. One place I found said no way because of age, no matter what something will break lol.
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Exhaust
Feb 21, 2016 17:56:09 GMT -5
Post by nugget on Feb 21, 2016 17:56:09 GMT -5
very curious about how the gibson will do, so please let us know.
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Exhaust
Feb 22, 2016 0:05:39 GMT -5
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Post by dirk on Feb 22, 2016 0:05:39 GMT -5
Well issue is a gasket between the front 2 cats. Not a biggy, except the studs on the one flange are rusted to no thread, so the nuts fell right off. Going to see if I can cut off the 2 studds, then drill 2 holes and use either solid bolt/nuts, or the type with the spring like most exhausts use. If it works it'll be a cheap fix, if it doesn't then I'm looking at having to buy a new catalytic converter....
I may just get the gibson exhaust anyways and have it done at the same time. We will see how it goes. I'll keep you posted if I do the swap
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Exhaust
Feb 22, 2016 21:35:30 GMT -5
Post by 2002sport on Feb 22, 2016 21:35:30 GMT -5
So with the 2 inch body, and 2 inch suspension lifts, think the exhaust will still be a catch point? As for straightening it, over the rear axle is the stock location. I have read about straightening out to help flow but if the exhaust isn't over the axle,or just over the axle wouldn't it interfere with the suspension or get hit by the axle? Mine kept catching with my lift and body lift so i just had a magna flow muffler installed and ran it straight out. Has not touched since.
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Exhaust
Feb 23, 2016 20:57:44 GMT -5
Post by ES_97Sport on Feb 23, 2016 20:57:44 GMT -5
... So I have a couple of questions, first with all the reading on the subject I haven't been able to find what the stock inner diameter is. .... Sorry, missed this. 2". Actually, its some weird metric size but for us in the US its 2". There's nothing wrong with mandrel bends. I run a fully mandrel bent exhaust on my 'Bird. Totally worth the money. On a Sport? Not worth the money or the time trying to find or build one. 2.25" is plenty sufficient with a 3.0L or 3.5L engine even with radius bends. The issue being addressed by going to a 2.25" exhaust from a 2" exhaust isn't volume its VELOCITY. We already have big enough pipes to get the exhaust out, the point of this exercise is to tune the exhaust to better scavenge the cylinders and pull in a bigger intake charge. Also, KIM, that to the exhaust flow, a 2.25" radius bend pipe looks more like a 1.75-2" pipe in actual physical diameter. A 2.25" mandrel bend pipe will look more like a 2.25" pipe in actual physical diameter. Going to a 2.5" or 3" radius bend system is BAD Ju Ju. This has been tested so I know the actual results. What has NOT been tested is a 2.25" mandrel bend system. YMMV. It may be entirely possible that this system is too big. As I said above, a 2.5" radius bend system will behave more like a 2-2.25" mandrel system, so .... You can't go straight out unless you have no axle movement at all. Anything that goes off road, even just fire roads, flexes and can flex significantly. No matter what you do it has to go up and over the rear axle. Really, the whole 2.25" diameter pipe size is based on maintaining the majority of the OEM exhaust bends (so everything hooks to the OEM hangers for simplicity). Trying to pull out bends to 'increase flow' is REALLY SILLY. These are NA engines. They're not blown or TT'd, and they're TINY. If you actually COULD pull out all the bends and run a straight pipe out the back, you'd probably have to go back to a 2" pipe because then the 2.25" would be too big. Edward
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Exhaust
Feb 24, 2016 17:22:21 GMT -5
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Post by dirk on Feb 24, 2016 17:22:21 GMT -5
So the gibson 2.25 cat back system, with the injen intake is about the best combination for me I think. Figuring direct bolt hangers etc, similar routing to original exhaust will be simplest most cost effective for me. And it includes everything from behind cat to muffler and tip. I am just waiting on it to arrive and waiting for a couple of exhaust gaskets from mitsubishi dealer to arrive. Can't wait. That will pretty much be everything done for performance/mpg upgrades. Then just suspension , and off road protection. Slowly getting there.
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Exhaust
Feb 24, 2016 19:02:13 GMT -5
Post by ES_97Sport on Feb 24, 2016 19:02:13 GMT -5
So the gibson 2.25 cat back system, with the injen intake is about the best combination for me I think. Figuring direct bolt hangers etc, similar routing to original exhaust will be simplest most cost effective for me. And it includes everything from behind cat to muffler and tip. Again, YMMV. M/Ts are more sensitive to torque curve changes than A/Ts so hopefully all will work well. A few things concern me with that exhaust. The OEM style 'drum' muffler isn't particularly space efficient. That's one of the points in favor of the Flowmaster thin 'box' style muffler. On my big Sport this is largely academic as its extraordinarily difficult to hit something that sits 30" off the ground and is tucked up inside the chassis. On an OEM torsion bar Sport, the stock drum muffler is definitely a liability. Its difficult to see how much clearance is afforded at the axle by this exhaust, but I question if its even enough to fully compress the axle to the bump stops. This isn't a concern only for off road use. I frequently 'bottom out' the rear suspension on residential rain gutters in my '03 because of the soft suspension. There are a few exhaust systems out there that attempt to straighten out the exhaust at the expense of reducing clearance that was validly engineered in by the manufacturer. A little too aggressive behavior with a speed bump or a mishap with a curb are frequently enough to fully compress a suspension even on the Gen 1 with its stiff leaf rear suspension. That exhaust tip is at least 4" in diameter. It wouldn't surprise me if it extended beyond the rear fascia because frequently that's how the 'boy racer' fart pipe exhausts are designed. If that's the case any use off road will quickly result in tearing the exhaust loose. The departure angle of a Sport is bad as it is and that would make it un-usable off road. Assuming it exits as a normal exhaust tip would, though, that means that given 1/2" of clearance between the fascia and the tip which would be the minimum you would want, the lowest point on the back will now be 4.5" below the fascia. There is NO WAY to avoid dragging that tip even on dirt fire roads. That would decrease clearance to the point that it would drag on the dirt berms the FS uses for erosion control. Anyway, just some things to maybe think about. Edward
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Exhaust
Mar 4, 2016 11:26:24 GMT -5
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Post by dirk on Mar 4, 2016 11:26:24 GMT -5
Definitely good info, expecting delivery today, and all goes well exhaust done this weekend or early next week. Yay
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