|
|
Post by dirk on Apr 5, 2016 17:07:15 GMT -5
Yeah with an analog volt meter. Is what I read, but I just went to the dealership they charged me 20 to read my abs code and clear it. No new codes popped, think it was when I was switching to LED brake bulbs. And if it returned I would need to place a resistor in line
|
|
|
|
Post by palmsprings on Apr 5, 2016 18:57:35 GMT -5
Ok I just got back from the nearest mitsubiti dealer to have extra keys made . 130 mi round trip for that!.originally a dealer was local until around 2007 and mitsu consolidated,goot out of town and so now its not as convienient for owners. While making/coding the keys, the guy was curious and ran the display "service engine". He told me the service light showed my catalytic converter on the left exaust bank(3 total in the vehicle) was dead and it would be abt 1000 dollars for the fix. i said "yeah right" The feds didnt take immediate action on a soverign country (Japan) and try to stop fukushimas spewing billions of gallons of deadly radioactive elements into the air and sea now killing all sea life in the pacific and they hard ball us over cfcs,emissions etc. Not to mention all the us stacked nuclear wastes and leaking reactors.The insane are running the assylum here. Ok back on track :So anyway, he said go to a muffler shop and have them replace it with one of theirs and it will cost you lots less than at Mitsubiti. Well see,anyone done this? ======================================== My service light came on in my newly aquired 126K mi M/S. If the light goes out that day,or a few days later, is there really any reason to check its code,take it to a mechanic etc? My owners manual says the displays indicate the emmissions,engine and A/T. My experience with my other 226 K miles M/S since new has been "anti lock and service soon "displays. They may display for part of a day or for a couple days but always go away so ive never taken the M/S in for diag/repairs. FYI these displays only occured in the mid mileage range of the 226k miles and they have only come on a half dozen times in all those miles. Never had any mechanical issues on this engine,brakes,A/t 4x4 etc since new despite disregarding the displays. is this usual or just plain luck? I would go to oreillys or autozone and get a free code scan the next time it comes on and then post here if I were you. On a similar note, I was having this same issue with the same lights coming on and it turned out to be alternator going out. You should even be able to get your alternator checked for free at either of those places.  I have to ask if you have or had any oil leaks on the front end, oil from bad cam seals leaking out will get into the alternator and kill it.  |
|
|
|
Post by dirk on Apr 5, 2016 21:06:02 GMT -5
Autozone told me that my cat was bad, I did the usual tune up stuff since I had a bad misfire also. The plugs and wires had 150k miles on them when I purchased it. I replaced 3 of them I could access and do myself. Had the 4th one and 3k miles later it threw a code again. Replaced last one and voila. That was 3 years and 30k miles ago. I also ordered new denso direct fit O2 sensors. No check engine lights since and runs like a champ still. I also have 3 cats.
I was lucky in that a Mitsubishi dealer opened shop 3 days after I bought the MS locally. 8 miles from my house. 2 miles from my work lol. Came in handy for getting items. And they love me there, they give me deals on parts and labor, and have been taking pics as I mod it to show off on their website when it is completed.
|
|
|
|
Post by jkdv8 on Apr 6, 2016 14:29:15 GMT -5
Yea that's when the live monitoring comes in handy so you watch the O2 sensors to see what they're doing.
The newer ones (OBDll) are suppose to do the flashing light deal with the jumper. Said to jump pin 1 with ground and the corresponding system light would flash accordingly. A/T or Neutral light for the trans, ABS for abs, etc. etc. Prior to 96/94 you supposedly needed a millimeter or some special tool. That's what this manual stated anyways and it looked like a legitimate mitsu service manual. I'll see if I can find it. I would not try this however unless we can confirm its for real cause jumping the wrong pins could have some very serious consequences.
|
|
|
|
Post by colted on Apr 6, 2016 23:09:22 GMT -5
I just bought an Ultragauge and loved that I can monitor most on my Monty including all 4 O2 sensors....love seeing the engine temp & voltage as well as engine loads etc.....I still keep my $14 Austell OBDII scanner which has saved me hundreds of trips and dealings with bad reps... |
|
|
|
Post by jkdv8 on Apr 7, 2016 16:20:43 GMT -5
buy1.snapon.com/products/diagnostics/downloads/manuals/AsianImportVCS(EAZ0025B02CRevA)/16%20MitsubishiTesting.pdf
Found it. Maybe it isn't from mitsu but there are quite a few other posts on the subject.
|
|
|
|
Post by jkdv8 on Apr 8, 2016 18:46:19 GMT -5
So I checked and it works. You need to make sure you get the right ports though because the connector on mine is upside down. The definition of the ABS codes I found here. link On the abs side I get codes 21-27. I need to replace the 4wd free clutch solenoid since I have the flashing 4wd light and abs light issue. I was also getting a 27 for the transmission but might be because I didn't start it. What I read but not sure cause the transmission codes I can't find anywhere. This does display 2 digit codes so I'm assuming it uses the obd1 codes. The SRS and SES is suppose to do the same as well if there is a code present. |
|
|
|
Post by palmsprings on Apr 8, 2016 20:16:01 GMT -5
I just got a flashing 4x4 when put into 4H (4L doesnt flash) sitting in the DWay. It went away after a couple miles.
why does it flash every time I put it in 4H,but stop flashing after a couple miles driving?
BTW Does anyone know where the 4wd free clutch solenoid is located?
|
|
|
|
Post by palmsprings on Apr 8, 2016 20:17:16 GMT -5
I just bought an Ultragauge and loved that I can monitor most on my Monty including all 4 O2 sensors....love seeing the engine temp & voltage as well as engine loads etc.....I still keep my $14 Austell OBDII scanner which has saved me hundreds of trips and dealings with bad reps... How much is the ultra guage you purchased? |
|
|
|
Post by palmsprings on Apr 8, 2016 20:28:52 GMT -5
buy1.snapon.com/products/diagnostics/downloads/manuals/AsianImportVCS(EAZ0025B02CRevA)/16%20MitsubishiTesting.pdf Found it. Maybe it isn't from mitsu but there are quite a few other posts on the subject. I tried to find the page concerning cat codes .Any idea where would I find that? |
|
|
|
Post by palmsprings on Apr 8, 2016 21:23:18 GMT -5
Once linked you fire up the app. You then can create a profile with vehicle specific stuff like fuel tank size etc. Once in the app you can read fault codes, reset ecu etc like you can with the big scanners you get at autozone. You can also set up graphs and gauges for O2 sensor readings, fuel trims, fuel ratios etc. That is how I hunted down my O2 sensor CELs. It is not the same as the expensive dealer specific MUT scanners. But it works pretty good for most things that you'd have done with a 100 DIY scan tool.
Do a search for OBDII Bluetooth with power button. Sort by price and I can find one like mine for about 7 to 11 dollars in a few seconds. There are things it won't read properly like ABS codes etc. But will do alot for a few dollars.[/quote]
Im learning the most basic of basics,
Are you saying the obdii will find the code and the app will tell you where that problem is? If not, then other continual monitoring of some systems does can the app help determine what and where a problem lies?
heres an example. The mechanic said he ran my code and came up with its the cat on the left side of the engine.Im assumong there is one on the right and the final cat down wind from there. Thats what i think he said,but my wife has forgotten the code that he said was displayed . How would the set up you describe help me learn, through the code,what the malfunctioning part would be?
I think i should google something like " all about the beginner learning to diagnosing a problem using and odb2 and a phone app? Phrase it like that or some variation?
|
|
|
|
Post by colted on Apr 9, 2016 9:28:38 GMT -5
I just bought an Ultragauge and loved that I can monitor most on my Monty including all 4 O2 sensors....love seeing the engine temp & voltage as well as engine loads etc.....I still keep my $14 Austell OBDII scanner which has saved me hundreds of trips and dealings with bad reps... How much is the ultra guage you purchased? Ordered the EM Plus for $69.95 plus $8.17 SH....don't need the manufaturer specific features that the MX 1.3 have since I'm using it for older vehicles. UG |
|
|
|
Post by dirk on Apr 9, 2016 23:14:22 GMT -5
"Im learning the most basic of basics, Are you saying the obdii will find the code and the app will tell you where that problem is? If not, then other continual monitoring of some systems does can the app help determine what and where a problem lies?" If you download the Torque (lite) app it is free from the Google play store. Even with out a sensor linked to it you can gauge what is available to look at for info. You can swipe side to side like you do in your phone for multiple screens of graphs and charts, and dials etc that you set up for monitoring. It is a bit of practice setting it up and learning what sensors you want to read and what is available to read. Say you have a check engine light pop up. 1) You plug in your bluetooth OBDII scanner. 2) You turn on the car. 3) You then fire up the app, and wait for the phone and scanner to link. There will be blinking icons on the screen that will tell you if it is communicating with the scanner, if so it stops blinking and will turn solid, once the 2 communicate with the car the car symbol turns solid, and if you have GPS turned on on the phone the GPS satellite symbol turns solid. 4) You run a a fault code scan from the app, it will then list all check engine light codes stored since it was last cleared. (You can also clear the codes with the app incase you are still registering codes from old repairs that are fixed and not cleared by themselves yet.) 5) You will look at the code and it will give you a generic title for the code. It may say p1202 O2 sensor bank 1 upstream below threshold temperature. (btw just made that up to make an example.) 6) You can then either look it up in the app for a better explanation of the code, or go online to Google type in the year make model of vehicle and code (2001 Montero sport code p1202 for example) and you can read common causes of the code and common fixes. Mine was an O2 sensor code and Autozone said replace all 3 cats. I went home and googled it. And learned there are 4 O2 sensors which side was bank 1 and what side was bank 2 and that there was one on the front and back side of the pre cat on each side. (Upstream and downstream) My vehicle was running pretty smooth at the time so I ordered the obdii scanner. I started with initial resolutions while I waited, I looked and had an exhaust place that does free checks look for leaks in the exhaust system. Nome found, I then looked to see if the connections were bad or disconected. Each one looked to be still in good shape, connect and no broken wires. By the time I finished those things I was pretty much narrowed down to O2 sensor, or bad cat. And had only spent under 10.00 at the time for the scanner that had just arrived. I installed the app, ran to the car plugged it in, fired it up, started the app, and voila was reading my sensor data. I then added 4 displays to the app, (O2 bank 1 sensor 1, O2 bank 1 sensor 2, O2 bank 2 sensor 1, and O2 bank 2 sensor 2) I watched the sensor reading the ecu sees, and seen on the graphs how some were cycling voltage as they should, and 1 was barely even changing and almost 0. Sure enough it matched the one that said it was bad. I went online searched for factory direct fit models and that is when I started to read this forum. I learned about avoiding Bosch and other generic O2 sensors. I knew Denso and I think NGK were the brands to stick with. I looked around at the time amazon had all 4 denso direct fit ones for my MS for 25 to 35 roughly a piece. Ordered all 4 and changed the one that was giving the code first. I then fired it all back up and seen the new sensor on bank 1 upstream looked very close to the readings from upstream bank 2. I cleared the code and never seen it again. I knew that if one O2 sensor was bad, they should be changed probably about as often as our iridium spark plugs. So I changed 2 more that I could do myself. About a month later I got a code for the unchanged one, had a mechanic change it out with the denso I bought and it cleared the code. 3 years later same cats no codes. I still run the app to look at fuel trims and and see water temps etc if my gauges are accurate, or since I run different size then stock tires I will use the GPS to see what my true speed is. I'm no mechanic, I'm a computer geek, but between the app and Google and the cheap scanner I have learned alot. And of course this website I hope that gives you a good example of how it worked to help me. No matter what it saves me 4 dollars in gas if running to auto zone for a free check, and it works on alot of vehicles so is a handy tool to keep in your glove box incase a friend or family member has a code they need checked. |
|
|
|
Post by palmsprings on Apr 10, 2016 10:42:21 GMT -5
Dirk,That post is a good explanation for a beginner(me).Thanks alot. ,Yesterday,I watched some YT on obd2s,bluetooth and iphone use/analysis, along with misc diagnostic,repair/replacements by mechanics like scottyKilmer,eric the carguy and others and that has helped me understand some minimly basic terminologies proceedures etc which makes it easier on all of us at your "montero" forum.
Thanks again
|
|
|
|
Post by jkdv8 on Apr 10, 2016 19:33:17 GMT -5
I just got a flashing 4x4 when put into 4H (4L doesnt flash) sitting in the DWay. It went away after a couple miles. why does it flash every time I put it in 4H,but stop flashing after a couple miles driving? BTW Does anyone know where the 4wd free clutch solenoid is located? It's under the intake with two solenoids on it. This is only if you have a constant flashing 4wd light. This is also the most common problem but doesn't necessarily mean that it is the problem. |
|
