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Post by r0llinlacs on Apr 5, 2018 7:37:09 GMT -5
Anybody ever done it?
98 Sport V6, tired of replacing alternators. No money to fix leaks and definitely not doing it myself.
Thinking with the AC compressor gone, there would be room to rig an alternator where the compressor is, and run it off the crank. I figure it would be a hell of a lot easier than fixing the leaks and replacing alternators every year.
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Post by ES_97Sport on Apr 6, 2018 12:43:22 GMT -5
Anybody ever done it? 98 Sport V6, tired of replacing alternators. No money to fix leaks and definitely not doing it myself. Thinking with the AC compressor gone, there would be room to rig an alternator where the compressor is, and run it off the crank. I figure it would be a hell of a lot easier than fixing the leaks and replacing alternators every year. I don't know that I've seen a lower mount on the driver side, but have you looked at moving it to the top? Edward
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Post by jkdv8 on Apr 15, 2018 11:52:50 GMT -5
Try comparing a 2012 Ford Escape (V6) alternator with the a/c compressor. Made by Mitsubishi and may bolt right up then it's just rerouting wires and lining up the belt. It sounds to easy to be plausible however.
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Post by tm on Jun 27, 2018 16:04:33 GMT -5
The last new Chinese alternator I bought off Amazon came with a drip shield; its also possible to redirect the drips away from the alternator by looking for their starting point and using high temp RTV sealer to redirect them down the engine block.
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Post by r0llinlacs on Jul 1, 2018 11:05:54 GMT -5
They fail even with the drip guards. I've tried "rerouting" the oil by shoving foil in the crevice between the timing cover but it didn't work well. This time I wrapped the alternator with a freezer bag and taped around it before I bolted it up, but I left the bottom open so it could breathe. Ghetto as all hell but desperate times call for desperate measures and so far so good, it's still clean underneath the bag and the alternator hasn't failed from overheating, and the bag hasn't melted either.
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Post by muddblood on Jul 21, 2018 19:31:13 GMT -5
Wouldn't that overheat the alternator? Alternators have a "fan" and most cars these days being internal.
Just curious as to what is leaking?
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Post by r0llinlacs on Oct 4, 2018 23:03:43 GMT -5
Wouldn't that overheat the alternator? Alternators have a "fan" and most cars these days being internal. Just curious as to what is leaking? I left the bottom of the bag open so it can breathe. The front cam seal and valve cover leak. I already did the valve covers and other seals but I used ebay gasket kit and it only lasted 2 weeks. I'm not doing it all again.
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Post by muddblood on Oct 5, 2018 7:09:55 GMT -5
Yeah, that sucks.
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Post by achtungdiesel on Oct 28, 2018 17:23:10 GMT -5
I have an 01 LS 3.0L and went through an alternator every 8-9 months and got tired of breaking down on the way to work. I used the Continental timing belt kit and ordered cam seals and water pump from Mitsubishi. After tearing it all apart I discovered that the rubber oil filler neck which is a piece of bent rubber hose approx 4" long had rotted/broken at the bend and oil was gurgling out and falling right on the alternator. I replaced the cam seals also, but I am certain that a great deal of oil incursion on my alternators was coming from the oil filler hose breach. The hose costs about $10 from Mitsubishi and that was about 4 years ago and my alternator is still clean and working great. I don't know if anyone else may have the same issue but if so it's a quick fix for a troublesome issue with these trucks.
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Post by jkdv8 on Oct 28, 2018 22:40:56 GMT -5
The cam seals can be tricky even with oem parts. There's a different special tool for both sides the dealer uses to push them in just right. No where is there a spec for them, just says use the special tool. My suggestion is if you know for a fact the old ones are either factory or dealer installed to make a mental note, measure, or carefully mark them before removing. Too far in or out they leak again. Use the cam bolt, washer and some PVC to push them in evenly.
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Post by Naeos_Valkarian on Oct 29, 2018 18:07:09 GMT -5
The cam seals can be tricky even with oem parts. There's a different special tool for both sides the dealer uses to push them in just right. No where is there a spec for them, just says use the special tool. My suggestion is if you know for a fact the old ones are either factory or dealer installed to make a mental note, measure, or carefully mark them before removing. Too far in or out they leak again. Use the cam bolt, washer and some PCV to push them in evenly. My FSM states to use engine oil to lubricate the the camshaft oil seal lip only when installing. When I did my cam seals I used the ones that came with my contitech timing belt kit and they lasted somewhere between 35k and 40k miles. All I did when installing them was clean the mating surface really well and lube it with engine oil, lubed the seal lips and camshaft with engine oil and pressed on with a rather large socket(don't remember the size). When pressing them on I got them just past the mating surface edge with maybe around 1/10th a cm of mating surface exposed. I am gearing up to redo my timing belt, pullies, and cam seals sometime in January next year. My cam seals are just now starting to seep.
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Post by 2003LimitedAWD on Oct 29, 2018 23:30:47 GMT -5
The cam seals can be tricky even with oem parts. There's a different special tool for both sides the dealer uses to push them in just right. No where is there a spec for them, just says use the special tool. My suggestion is if you know for a fact the old ones are either factory or dealer installed to make a mental note, measure, or carefully mark them before removing. Too far in or out they leak again. Use the cam bolt, washer and some PCV to push them in evenly. Thanks the heads up on this, didn't know it was such a critical procedure. Without your post, I'd probably just pounded them on in without much care. This evening, I installed the front cam seals (OEM ones) on my freshly-redone heads and, luckily, the outline from the original seals could still be seen on the inside surface. I used a very large socket and a rubber hammer to install, and a millimeter ruler to ensure that they were installed evenly all around the perimeter.
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Post by jkdv8 on Nov 1, 2018 22:37:36 GMT -5
No worries. I read somewhere awhile back where it talked about worn seals wearing a grove on the cam and a trick to fix it. Have to see if I can find it again. If the groove is deep enough it can leak no matter what you do.
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