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Post by Naeos_Valkarian on Jul 16, 2018 0:35:25 GMT -5
Finally found where the compressor controller is located. Literally right on top of the evaporator box. Unfortunately it seems the engineers did not forsee having to replace the controller because you have to remove the evap core to completely change it out due to the evap core temperature probes wires being saudered onto the pcb...(I mean I suppose if you're good at soldering...)
Scratch those numbers, just tore apart two 99s and an 00 at the yard and the compressor controllerd were different in all three!
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Post by Naeos_Valkarian on Jul 22, 2018 17:54:22 GMT -5
Compressor controller is also not the issue, swapping in a confirmed working unit did not fix my issue. At this point I'm at a complete loss, I've ruled out everything I can think of other than the wire harness as an issue. Probably about to run brand new wiring, if anyone has a wiring diagram for the ac system on a 1998 3.0L RWD LS I would be very appreciative if you could link me to it.
On another note, If I have too I'm thinking about designing my own ac control system using a temperature controller and fan controller. What is the current draw for the compressor clutch? I figure around 12v/3amps sounds right.
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Post by Naeos_Valkarian on Jul 28, 2018 16:34:15 GMT -5
Compressor controller is also not the issue, swapping in a confirmed working unit did not fix my issue. At this point I'm at a complete loss, I've ruled out everything I can think of other than the wire harness as an issue. Probably about to run brand new wiring, if anyone has a wiring diagram for the ac system on a 1998 3.0L RWD LS I would be very appreciative if you could link me to it. On another note, If I have too I'm thinking about designing my own ac control system using a temperature controller and fan controller. What is the current draw for the compressor clutch? I figure around 12v/3amps sounds right. Temporarily patched: Since my budget is severely limited atm I bought some 14Gauge primary wire, 30amp rated rocker switch, and 14 gauge male/female blade style connectors. I removed the main ac system 30amp fuse and connected about 4' of wire to and from the switch (left of the steering wheel, 8' total wire) and the fuse box. I then bypassed the relays for the compressor and condensor fan. The 5v reference was not being sent to those relays to activate them and I got tired of fiddling with diagnostics in the Florida heat. So now when I flick the switch the compressor and condensor fan come on. Real redneck but it works. The switch was chosen based on the fuse it was essentially replacing and the wiring was chosen using an aircraft american wire gauge diagram which showed it could handle continous flow in a single cable @ 30amps for a minimum of 10 feet. Now I know it's obviously not carrying that much current by a long shot but now I have a good safety net. DISCLAIMER: This is not an instructional or how too, and I am not reliable for any damage to life or property if anyone chooses to perform these modifications in a same or like manner.
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Post by jkdv8 on Sept 16, 2018 19:27:48 GMT -5
The ETACs handles mostly all of the problems you're experiencing. It's a little red box on the back of the fuse box.
Was position or number is the relay you're referring to. Appologies for the delayed response.
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Post by Naeos_Valkarian on Oct 15, 2018 23:26:53 GMT -5
The ETACs handles mostly all of the problems you're experiencing. It's a little red box on the back of the fuse box. Was position or number is the relay you're referring to. Appologies for the delayed response. I will try replacing the unit next payday, I will report back when I've replaced it. Thanks man. Also what years are these compatible with? Gen1 sports are hard to find around here. I have a 98 LS 3.0L 2WD, no ABS, no security system.
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Post by jkdv8 on Oct 22, 2018 19:28:54 GMT -5
I would take a look at it before replacing it. It may or may not be the source of the problem. It's best to take the simplest circuit or two and trace to the power source to diagnose the problem and check your grounds.
Pretty sure all sports had an ETACs unit but yea, the extent of its roll in operation is dependent on vehicle options. I'm sure if you did find it to be a problem you could match the part numbers.
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Post by Naeos_Valkarian on Jan 5, 2019 21:24:08 GMT -5
I would take a look at it before replacing it. It may or may not be the source of the problem. It's best to take the simplest circuit or two and trace to the power source to diagnose the problem and check your grounds. Pretty sure all sports had an ETACs unit but yea, the extent of its roll in operation is dependent on vehicle options. I'm sure if you did find it to be a problem you could match the part numbers. I hate to say this cause it's gonna make me look stupid but I decided on a whim to recheck the underdash fuses and lo and behold the #4 fuse was blown. Now I checked all the fuses way back but I apparently didn't look close enough or there was poor lighting cause I must've missed it. Cruise control, Air Conditioning, and Rear Defrost are functioning again.
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Post by jkdv8 on Jan 7, 2019 20:52:45 GMT -5
Good deal man. Yea they're easily mistaken as good without adequate lighting because of the location.
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Post by Naeos_Valkarian on Jul 22, 2019 20:17:43 GMT -5
Retook my readings the other day on a whim cause it's been 100 in the shade as of late and my ac ain't quite cutting it. I noticed these readings after 30mins at idle:
Ambient: 102f + 80% humidity High: 291 Low: 53 air temp: 70f
According to the FSM this is way out of spec, a coworker recommended I have a shop take some out to relieve the pressure and now my A/C is blowing ice cold...at night, almost too cold. Sigh, still having trouble with this beast during the full heat of the day. Back into the FSM I went, I was hoping I overlooked something and sure enough I did. The FSM clearly states to recharge with 24oz of refrigerant, but if you read the entire vac and recharge procedure it says to use 1 pound of refrigerant which is 16oz, I definitely overlooked this contradiction the last time. I'm now planning to replace the condenser so when I do I will keep y'all posted on the results. A fresh vac, charge, and condenser with 16oz refrigerant should do the trick.
Bonus: I know the low pressure switch is working because if I rev the engine now, the pressure on the low side drops to like 10psi and it kicks off. My guess is the shop took too much out.
Lesson learned to pay attention to the fine print and details. Don't be like me and skip stuff just cause you think it's irrelevant. It's funny how we tend to give people advice and not use it ourselves sometimes right? I'm learning exactly how much I don't know as I get older.
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