|
|
Post by Naeos_Valkarian on Nov 1, 2018 20:39:52 GMT -5
Alright guys and gals I have a conundrum for you. For the last year and a half or so I have been having an odd issue with vibration coming from the engine when at idle in any gear but worse in D/2/L and It's only getting worse. The vibration is so bad the steering wheel rattles, and any liquids I have up front look like the power might be trying to come back on in Jurassic Park. Vibration is present at these RPM ranges in park/neutral: idle~1200rpm then reoccurs at 1800~2100 rpm, after which it is smooth as butter. lower the rpm the more intense it gets.
There are no codes pending or stored, check engine light has never come on, engine sometimes has a hard time starting, gas mileage is roughly 14/15.5/17.5, engine idles low (500~600rpm when warmed up) the issue is also very intermittent, sometimes it's there, sometimes it's not and it varies in intensity when it's present. Another symptom that may be related is engine hesitation at any speed. To clarify, throttle response is excellent as I have a short ram intake and new ignition components. (Aside from coil packs) The issue is that I can be accelerating and it's as if I'm not speeding up like I should then out of nowhere the engine springs to life and I gain speed quickly. This issue is random and seems to happen 1~2 times a week. These symptoms lead me to believe it could be injector related. I replaced spark plugs, plug wires, and fuel filter back in March of this year and the issue still persists.
Any ideas?
|
|
|
|
Post by jkdv8 on Nov 1, 2018 23:40:43 GMT -5
Vibration could be an engine/transmission mount.
Sluggish starting could be the battery.
Low idle is more than likely the IAC. Probably carbon buildup in the passages/intake or the IAC itself. Run some seafoam through the tank and intake but don't get it down in the IAC passages before the butterfly valve. They make it for both applications.
The lack/loss/increase in power could be the TPS, O2 sensors, etc. Was it doing it before the intake swap. It's doubtful but possible especially if you're using the same MAF. Typically people have swapped them for one off an Evo while using a 3KGT/VR-4 housing when swapping intakes. Also check your fuel trims for any irregularities.
|
|
|
|
Post by Naeos_Valkarian on Nov 2, 2018 11:11:17 GMT -5
Vibration could be an engine/transmission mount. Sluggish starting could be the battery. Low idle is more than likely the IAC. Probably carbon buildup in the passages/intake or the IAC itself. Run some seafoam through the tank and intake but don't get it down in the IAC passages before the butterfly valve. They make it for both applications. The lack/loss/increase in power could be the TPS, O2 sensors, etc. Was it doing it before the intake swap. It's doubtful but possible especially if you're using the same MAF. Typically people have swapped them for one off an Evo while using a 3KGT/VR-4 housing when swapping intakes. Also check your fuel trims for any irregularities. Transmission mounts do need replacing however the vibration is also present in Neutral and Park but worse in gear corresponding with the drop in idle RPM. Engine mounts still appear solid. (revving engine in neutral barely shakes the engine) Battery is relatively new, I'll have it tested anyway though. 700cca I cleaned the IAC a few days ago as I was experiencing the classic dying at a red light scenario, cleaning it solved the issue but not the vibration. As far as injector cleaner goes, I've haven't tried it in awhile. I'll buy a bottle of it and see what happens. I have two cans of the BG MOA intake cleaner but I have no way to atomize it/inject it into the intake correctly. (Spray bottle maybe? It'd be a pita though lol) TPS was replaced with a junk yard unit last year out of curiosity but I saw no improvement or anything otherwise to suggest it was bad in the first place, perhaps I can play with adjusting it though. The vibration was not present before or immediately after I replaced the intake, it really only showed up about 6 months after but has been progressively getting worse and I am still using the stock MAF. How would I go about checking fuel trims? My blue tooth OBDII or the Torque Pro app do not show this. |
|
|
|
Post by dclambertt on Nov 2, 2018 18:17:08 GMT -5
Try some BG 44K if you can find some. I had to order it online.
|
|
|
|
Post by kushmcdieselson on Nov 3, 2018 8:45:39 GMT -5
If your truck burns a decent amount of oil try cleaning your throttle body out. It also may be an o2 sensor throwing a bad reading and causing the computer to artificially create a lean/rich fuel ratio. I had the acceleration issue once before, I burn a lot of oil (need to change valve stem gaskets) and it is constantly throwing ow sensor codes because of this.
|
|
|
|
Post by jkdv8 on Nov 3, 2018 15:32:15 GMT -5
Yea just use what you have. They have reusable spray cans that you add whatever then fill with a compressor. Odd the BG stuff isn't in an aerosol can. You could probably get away running it through a vacuum line but would take forever.
I can't say with those programs. I'm sure they both do you just have to make sure the right PID's are supported and running. Look in the vehicle PID setup. Some of them do it automatically where you just click a button and it finds all PID's that are supported by the vehicle while others require manual setup.
What kushmcdielselson was saying is what I was getting at with the O2 sensors. If both sides are not in harmony it can cause vibration issues. Part of the reason why it is recommended to replace both sides, upstream or down, at the same time so O2 sensor data reading would be worth looking into as well.
|
|
|
|
Post by Naeos_Valkarian on Nov 3, 2018 16:58:36 GMT -5
If your truck burns a decent amount of oil try cleaning your throttle body out. It also may be an o2 sensor throwing a bad reading and causing the computer to artificially create a lean/rich fuel ratio. I had the acceleration issue once before, I burn a lot of oil (need to change valve stem gaskets) and it is constantly throwing ow sensor codes because of this. I replaced my valve stem seals about 30K miles ago so oil burn off isn't much of an issue atm. (Oil leaks now that's a different story lol) Also no codes have ever been thrown regarding anything since I've owned the vehicle besides when my Alternator went out. Yea just use what you have. They have reusable spray cans that you add whatever then fill with a compressor. Odd the BG stuff isn't in an aerosol can. You could probably get away running it through a vacuum line but would take forever. I can't say with those programs. I'm sure they both do you just have to make sure the right PID's are supported and running. Look in the vehicle PID setup. Some of them do it automatically where you just click a button and it finds all PID's that are supported by the vehicle while others require manual setup. What kushmcdielselson was saying is what I was getting at with the O2 sensors. If both sides are not in harmony it can cause vibration issues. Part of the reason why it is recommended to replace both sides, upstream or down, at the same time so O2 sensor data reading would be worth looking into as well. I have two little 11oz BG Induction System Cleaner cans that the dealerships uses in conjunction with the same compressed air device you mentioned. I will try replacing the O/2 sensors soon but that will be on next paycheck so it will take a few weeks for results. Also worth noting I just dumped a bottle of Lucas injector cleaner in the tank so I'll update on that in a few days. I bought a TB gasket a few months back for cleaning my TB but never got around to it. The next day it's not raining I'll give it a whirl. |
|
|
|
Post by jkdv8 on Nov 4, 2018 16:23:07 GMT -5
Think the dealerships use a machine that hooks up to everything for the induction service.
Check your sensors out before replacing. If they have over 100k on them however it wouldn't hurt. They wear out just like pads and plugs.
I don't recall the TB looking all that bad when I did mine but the EGR and PCV systems are fed in after the TB which is where all the crud and carbon comes from. If you wanted to get that involved you could take the entire intake off, separate the throttle body as well as the two plenum halves and clean. Make sure you can get all the gaskets for reassembly first.
|
|
|
|
Post by Naeos_Valkarian on Nov 4, 2018 21:06:13 GMT -5
Think the dealerships use a machine that hooks up to everything for the induction service. Check your sensors out before replacing. If they have over 100k on them however it wouldn't hurt. They wear out just like pads and plugs. I don't recall the TB looking all that bad when I did mine but the EGR and PCV systems are fed in after the TB which is where all the crud and carbon comes from. If you wanted to get that involved you could take the entire intake off, separate the throttle body as well as the two plenum halves and clean. Make sure you can get all the gaskets for reassembly first. The device I'm referring to is a refillable canister hooked up to the air compressor, hangs from the hood latch(usually) and has a another hose with a nozzle and hook that they insert into the TB that dispenses the now atomized induction cleaner. As far as cleaning the TB and plenum assembly, I've done it before so I'm familiar with the process.  |
|
|
|
Post by Naeos_Valkarian on Nov 9, 2018 18:17:28 GMT -5
So I was inspecting my valve covers while the engine was running and noticed two bolts that were free turning that hold the plenum on. I tried to tighten them down and they just kept spinning. My best guess was that the threads stripped the last time I redid my plugs and for some god forsaken reason didn't notice. I will be pulling a manifold from the junk yard this Tuesday and slap it on there with some new gaskets and see what happens.
As far as Fuel trims go, the LTFT 1 & 2 show running +5.5%(STFT shows -2.5%) at idle and about +3.0% at cruising speed or about 55MPH with the STFT fluctuating around -2.5%~-4.5% depending on throttle position/engine load. To me if I'm interpreting this correctly it means it's running slightly rich at idle and leaning out when driving.
|
|
|
|
Post by dirk on Nov 9, 2018 23:07:02 GMT -5
Last time I had any engine work done on my MS, the mechanic put the bolts in the wrong holes, most of the intake plenum bolts have differing lengths.
|
|
|
|
Post by larry4406 on Nov 10, 2018 7:57:41 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by jkdv8 on Nov 10, 2018 16:43:15 GMT -5
Yea what Dirk and Larry said. I though some were different diameters as well but I guess not.
If one of the bolts you speak of makes the connections at the intake ports it very well could be pulling in unmetered air and the computer is trying to make up for it by adding more fuel. You would think it would trigger a SES light, however as long as it doesn't max out the trims it may not.
That is one clean intake Larry.
|
|
|
|
Post by Naeos_Valkarian on Nov 10, 2018 18:38:41 GMT -5
Yea what Dirk and Larry said. I though some were different diameters as well but I guess not. If one of the bolts you speak of makes the connections at the intake ports it very well could be pulling in unmetered air and the computer is trying to make up for it by adding more fuel. You would think it would trigger a SES light, however as long as it doesn't max out the trims it may not. That is one clean intake Larry. No kidding that intake looks brand new lol. I love it. |
|
|
|
Post by larry4406 on Nov 11, 2018 8:51:24 GMT -5
|
|
