|
Post by Naeos_Valkarian on Nov 18, 2018 23:34:31 GMT -5
Had to pay more than I wanted to on a bill so I wasn't able to get the intake manifold so instead I finally got around to cleaning the throttle body again (cleaned it around 50K miles ago). Well fellas my problem got worse, Idles stay fairly constant but the engine is stumbling so hard you can hear it out the exhaust and continues into acceleration and is also accompanied by a loss of power on the road.
Before anyone suspects the IAC I swapped it with a known good backup that I have and it did nothing. I never touched the TPS as it didn't need to come off for the clean so no adjustments should need to be made.
Edit: I took the TB off the plenum and cleaned it by hand with Carb Cleaner, a soft bristle brush, and some shop towels. I removed the IAC and the little spring activated valve inside the TB to thoroughly clean it all. TBH the whole TB wasn't even really dirty, the butterfly was even still shiny from the last time I cleaned it.
|
|
|
Post by jkdv8 on Nov 19, 2018 18:35:17 GMT -5
IAC only controls idle. If that is good you can rule it out.
Tps can fail or need to be recalibrated without being touched. Most scan tools read throttle position to rule that out. With the engine off check if the reading and pedal are syncronized. Do idle to wide open as well as slowly pressing pedal, letting off, press it again etc. to see if it's smooth and consistent.
Sounds like an air-fuel ratio issue whether it a be an air leak, vacuum leak, faulty O2 sensors, possibly an injector, etc. Long term fuel trims should be close to 0 when everything is working as it should.
Go back over everything you did if it made it worse.
|
|
|
Post by Naeos_Valkarian on Nov 19, 2018 19:05:41 GMT -5
IAC only controls idle. If that is good you can rule it out. Tps can fail or need to be recalibrated without being touched. Most scan tools read throttle position to rule that out. With the engine off check if the reading and pedal are syncronized. Do idle to wide open as well as slowly pressing pedal, letting off, press it again etc. to see if it's smooth and consistent. Sounds like an air-fuel ratio issue whether it a be an air leak, vacuum leak, faulty O2 sensors, possibly an injector, etc. Long term fuel trims should be close to 0 when everything is working as it should. Go back over everything you did if it made it worse. This morning when I headed off to work it was bad, I had to feather the throttle to keep it from dying. However 9 hours later when I got off work I found it to be running rather well. The original thread issue is still present but it was running great on the road and idling reliably again. Hopefully it won't be raining Wednesday when I'm off work and I can test for vac leaks. I do know I had to fidget with a spark plug wire because it was in the way of one of the coolant hoses. If this is the issue I am thinking either the cable has a flaw or maybe coolant got down inside the plug well.
|
|
|
Post by jkdv8 on Nov 20, 2018 20:15:57 GMT -5
Check and see if you're obd scanner does service/mode $6 and check for misfires. Misfires are possible without throwing a misfire code however, mine threw a code last time I got water down a plug tube from cleaning. You also want to make sure the plug wires are not resting on any metal and touching each other or they can arc causing a misfire.
Check your EGR to and make sure it isn't hanging open when it's idling rough.
|
|
|
Post by Naeos_Valkarian on Nov 21, 2018 18:56:00 GMT -5
Unfortunately it seems my Gen1 ECU does not support mode $6. I also went and fidgeted with the egr and slightly pushing on the diaphragm makes the engine idle worse. I will see about replacing the egr next payday but you know how that goes sometimes lol.
The wires are touching the valve covers in multiple spots but in the dark I'm not seeing any arcing. When I do work on the intake manifold I'll try to fix that.
|
|
|
Post by jkdv8 on Nov 23, 2018 13:27:17 GMT -5
Didn't think about that. Maybe it was just the first gen that didn't support it. The PC software I use is capable of mode $6 but its been so long since I used it last I can't say with any degree of certainty if mine supported it. I typically use a phone or tablet app which doesn't have the option. I haven't had any serious issues however that required extensive diagnosis to rectify a problem.
As for the EGR the valve is probably fine for the exception of a cleaning. They tend to be pretty solid. It is talked about on here on numerous occasions that if you pinch the hose it should open the valve and stall or come close to stalling. Don't remember the color but there is one with a blue and yellow stripe. If you pinch the other there should be no change. If idle improves it's the solenoid. You have to catch it when the idle is off however. I was having similar issues awhile back.
|
|
|
Post by Naeos_Valkarian on Nov 24, 2018 18:50:01 GMT -5
Didn't think about that. Maybe it was just the first gen that didn't support it. The PC software I use is capable of mode $6 but its been so long since I used it last I can't say with any degree of certainty if mine supported it. I typically use a phone or tablet app which doesn't have the option. I haven't had any serious issues however that required extensive diagnosis to rectify a problem. As for the EGR the valve is probably fine for the exception of a cleaning. They tend to be pretty solid. It is talked about on here on numerous occasions that if you pinch the hose it should open the valve and stall or come close to stalling. Don't remember the color but there is one with a blue and yellow stripe. If you pinch the other there should be no change. If idle improves it's the solenoid. You have to catch it when the idle is off however. I was having similar issues awhile back. That's the thing though, The issue is more of a continuous stumble that doesn't effect RPMs in the slightest. Even during the worst of the "stumbling" when the dash and steering column is rattling from it something fierce the idle rpm stays constant with maybe a 25 to 50 rpm fluctuation every so often which afaik is normal. Even after I cleaned the IAC a month or so ago which brought the Idle RPMs back up to around 650~700 from 450~550ish the issue is still there all the same. Maybe it's odd to say but even during the horrid running conditions I had after cleaning the TB I could still feel this odd misfire/stumble in the background. It felt very different but subtle. On another note I watched a video with a newish Honda car that was having the same exact problem as me up to including the dash and steering column rattle at idle and it turned out to be a leaky exhaust valve on #5 cyl. Thinking about performing both a leakdown and compression test when I mess with the intake manifold and inspect the valvetrain as I'm overdue for new valve cover gaskets.
|
|
|
Post by jkdv8 on Nov 25, 2018 21:56:44 GMT -5
I would think that would throw a code. Run a vacuum test.
|
|
|
Post by Naeos_Valkarian on Nov 25, 2018 22:19:20 GMT -5
I would think that would throw a code. Run a vacuum test. I think I'm going to run all the tests at this rate, all in a couple of days.
|
|
|
Post by Naeos_Valkarian on Jan 26, 2019 0:31:44 GMT -5
Alright, I am attempting to replace my injector O-Rings and I am having some obscene difficulty getting one of the O-Rings off the nozzle end. It's turned from an O-Ring material into some industrial grade plastic and it will not come off. Short of busting out the dremel and cutting them off I'm out of ideas. The O-Ring spins freely but will not come off. I need advice before I do something stupid lol. Too late lol, My buddy put me up to breaking them off. I squeezed on them with a large pair of channel locks and they literally cracked and sent pieces of the O-Ring flying like shrapnel. Hah but it works.
|
|
|
Post by larry4406 on Jan 26, 2019 10:11:41 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by Naeos_Valkarian on Jan 26, 2019 12:45:13 GMT -5
I love reading through this thread, once again Larry good job. +1
|
|
|
Post by larry4406 on Jan 26, 2019 16:27:31 GMT -5
I love reading through this thread, once again Larry good job. +1 Thank you, glad I can help. When I did my rebuild the lack of info was appalling so I started that thread. Keep in mind I am no expert, just a gear head like others here. I am glad I documented it as there is no way I could remember all that now.
|
|
|
Post by Naeos_Valkarian on Mar 10, 2019 18:26:18 GMT -5
Just a quick update:
After swapping out my injectors with the spares I had and changing the O-rings on them I have much more throttle response on the highway and the crazy vibration is gone when I hit 5K rpm or more.
The idle vibration issue is still present but I am leaning towards it being two things. The harmonic balancer is ancient and probably needs to be replaced, and the IAC is possibly starting to go out.
|
|