Well I had my brakes checked at the dealer some time ago and they said I still had 30% front and 40% rear, but that the rotors were glazed over. He said I would need to replace the rotors when I get new pads but it wasn't necessary to do that now.
So my question would be: What happens to a rotor when it is glazed over and do I need to replace them, or is the dealer trying to screw me?
Tan 99 Sport - JVC EXAD CD Player - Alpine Type R Speakers - Alpine 360 Watt Amp - Black Rock Crawler Rims - 31X10.50r15 Goodyear MTRs - PIAA GTX Bulbs - Superiormats Floormats.... and more to come.
"Glazed" is when the rotors finish is polished to an almost mirror like finish. This ultra smooth surface will not provide a good enough surface for the brake pads to "bite" onto reducing braking performance and increasing pedal effort. If your rotors are still within minimum thickness specs (.880"), you can just have them resurfaced during your next brake service. If your rotors are at or approaching minimum thickness specs- then you'll need to replace them.
The most common cause of rotors glazing over is having the brakes serviced without resurfacing the rotors. This is common with DIY'ers where they slap on a new set of pads and call it a day. This will save a few bucks but will gradually polish off the rotors.
Brake info from a couple brake vendors, including glazing issues and proper break-in (they call it 'bedding') for new pads/rotors... one of the best explainations I've seen.
My 10 cents: glazing is most caused by incorrect pad/rotor combinations, contamination, and lack of/or improper break in (DIY'ers breathe easy!).... Once you've glazed the rotor&pads, its better to take'em apart to scuff them up (followed by break-in proceedure) than to hope that you'll just drive it off. Good break-in will give longest pad/rotor life as well.
Happy reading... ;D
brewster (now that you're probably paranoid about it), do your brakes feel funny or lack stopping power?
98 LS 3.0 automatic, 120k miles, 31x10.50 Pirelli Scorpion AT's, SuperWinch manual hubs, Tokico Trekmasters, drop-in K&N, all synthetic gear oil, all stainless mandrel 2.25" exhaust, high flow cat, 2 Magnaflows (still loud!)...... and 2 kiddie seats...
There is no spec for number of times. It really has to do with the thickness of the disc. You have to get a caliper out and measure the thickness. If it can be milled down and stay above .880" you should be okay.
I understand that part...I'm just wondering approximately how many times could I do that before the rotor needs to be replaced. I have another vehicle that has had the rotors machined twice already...hoping to get at least 1 or 2 more out of it so I wont have to shell out the $$
2003 LS 3.0 L. K&N drop in air filter Yoko Geolandar HTS G051 265-70-16s on stock rims