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Post by brewster on Apr 16, 2005 3:49:32 GMT -5
Well I had my brakes checked at the dealer some time ago and they said I still had 30% front and 40% rear, but that the rotors were glazed over. He said I would need to replace the rotors when I get new pads but it wasn't necessary to do that now.
So my question would be: What happens to a rotor when it is glazed over and do I need to replace them, or is the dealer trying to screw me?
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Post by Joel_CA on Apr 18, 2005 13:11:22 GMT -5
"Glazed" is when the rotors finish is polished to an almost mirror like finish. This ultra smooth surface will not provide a good enough surface for the brake pads to "bite" onto reducing braking performance and increasing pedal effort. If your rotors are still within minimum thickness specs (.880"), you can just have them resurfaced during your next brake service. If your rotors are at or approaching minimum thickness specs- then you'll need to replace them.
Joel, CA
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Post by brewster on Apr 18, 2005 15:55:50 GMT -5
What causes them to glaze over? It must have something to do with my driving habits, and I would like to avoid this in the future.
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Post by OrygunXLS on Apr 18, 2005 16:04:04 GMT -5
Avoid using the brakes!
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Post by Joel_CA on Apr 18, 2005 22:12:39 GMT -5
The most common cause of rotors glazing over is having the brakes serviced without resurfacing the rotors. This is common with DIY'ers where they slap on a new set of pads and call it a day. This will save a few bucks but will gradually polish off the rotors.
Joel, CA
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Post by byrdman on Apr 19, 2005 11:04:55 GMT -5
check out: www.kitcarbooks.com/brakepads.htmlBrake info from a couple brake vendors, including glazing issues and proper break-in (they call it 'bedding') for new pads/rotors... one of the best explainations I've seen. My 10 cents: glazing is most caused by incorrect pad/rotor combinations, contamination, and lack of/or improper break in (DIY'ers breathe easy!).... Once you've glazed the rotor&pads, its better to take'em apart to scuff them up (followed by break-in proceedure) than to hope that you'll just drive it off. Good break-in will give longest pad/rotor life as well. Happy reading... ;D brewster (now that you're probably paranoid about it), do your brakes feel funny or lack stopping power?
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Post by ronab2k on Sept 30, 2005 18:36:08 GMT -5
i had my brakes inspected at 40k miles for a squeeling sound and turns out my rotors are glazed. My pads are at 50% so sounds like I can probably go another 20k.
Question is, how many times can I resurface the rotor until I have to replace it?
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Post by OrygunXLS on Oct 3, 2005 10:54:07 GMT -5
There is no spec for number of times. It really has to do with the thickness of the disc. You have to get a caliper out and measure the thickness. If it can be milled down and stay above .880" you should be okay.
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Post by ronab2k on Oct 3, 2005 13:52:42 GMT -5
I understand that part...I'm just wondering approximately how many times could I do that before the rotor needs to be replaced. I have another vehicle that has had the rotors machined twice already...hoping to get at least 1 or 2 more out of it so I wont have to shell out the $$
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Post by OrygunXLS on Oct 3, 2005 14:56:16 GMT -5
It is largely a function of the combination of disc material and friction material on the pad. I generally get 2-3 turns per disc as a rule before I toss 'em.
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