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Post by mikeinfhaz on Aug 14, 2006 13:54:01 GMT -5
I was told there was a DIY section for the rear camshaft seals on the 3.5 sport. Is it still available? where?  |
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Post by byrdman on Aug 14, 2006 19:15:46 GMT -5
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Post by mikeinfhaz on Aug 15, 2006 19:59:34 GMT -5
hey thanks I found the leak, now have to get the seal. Can you tell me where to get the seal?
Ive tried searching online at Checker, partsexpress, and others and didnt find what I want. What about AutoZone?
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Post by cyberdog on Aug 15, 2006 22:12:12 GMT -5
hey thanks I found the leak, now have to get the seal. Can you tell me where to get the seal? Ive tried searching online at Checker, partsexpress, and others and didnt find what I want. What about AutoZone? They are only a couple bucks (OK maybe three) at the dealer. |
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Post by Joel_CA on Aug 17, 2006 0:24:53 GMT -5
Definitely get it from the dealer. There is an improved o ring seal available to replace the leak prone original. Do NOT use a plain rubber O ring (aftermarket) that will just harden overtime and leak again. Good Luck!
Joel, CA
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Post by mikeinfhaz on Oct 25, 2006 20:29:10 GMT -5
I thought I would post an update, a little slow but...
the cam seals were $3 each and took about 15 minutes each side to install. a small ratchet with 12mm's and youre good to go. get this... the dick mechanic "offered" to only charge me 8 hours shop time (@$50 per hour!) what a tool. this website is a lifesaver. thanks, guys.
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medic
Junior Member
Posts: 26
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Post by medic on Nov 13, 2006 12:38:51 GMT -5
I was attempting to repair this myself. I had went to the dealer and got a rear cam seal, but when taking the cover plate off I realized that it is not the cam seal that is bad. It is the o-ring that is on the coverplate. I am having to go back and get the correct o-ring.
Does anyone have a part number or correct name for this o-ring. I have the 3.0L.
Thanks.
Also...what is the torque on the bolts supposed to be? Did you apply the sealant and what about locktite on bolts?
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Post by Joel_CA on Nov 13, 2006 13:40:28 GMT -5
You can apply abit of sealant to the flats of the cover plate but DO NOT use loctite on the bolts. There is no load whatsoever applied to these bolts and they will not rattle out of place over time if torqued down properly. Be sure both the head and the cover plate are clean before applying sealant.
FYI, the rear cam seal IS the cam Oring seal. There is NO other seal back there. In some cases, the parts dept might give you the front cam seal which is NOT an O ring.
J
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medic
Junior Member
Posts: 26
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Post by medic on Nov 14, 2006 17:21:28 GMT -5
What is the torque of the bolts? What kind of sealant? By the way. I did get the right part number this time........Thanks.
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medic
Junior Member
Posts: 26
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Post by medic on Nov 14, 2006 20:24:41 GMT -5
Got it fixed. Not a bad job. Took about 10 or 15 minutes. Thanks to all.......Bill
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Post by ozms on Nov 26, 2006 1:27:37 GMT -5
I replaced my rear cam seals yesterday and took some pictures to hopefully help out those of you who haven't had a chance to replace yours. it took me about 15 minutes to replace the passenger side and about 40 to replace the drivers side. i used Joel's FAQ write up for tips and tricks that came in super handy. msport97.proboards6.com/index.cgi?board=faq&action=display&n=1&thread=6258Rear Cam Seal O-Ring Part Number is: MN176208...the rear cam seal bolts are 12mm i recommend that you pick up a set of ratcheting wrenches and a 1/4 inch ratchet with a LONG HANDLE (this is for the drivers side) if you have really skinny arms then the ratchet wrenches will suffice. as per Joel's tip i removed the wheel and the splash shield as well as the two bolts that attach the tranny dipstick to the engine and that made a huge difference since my fore ams are a bit big also remember to lube the new oring before installing it. you dint want to pinch or break the new one. if anybody has questions or needs another pic just let me know     I had Dow Corning 732 High Temp RTV at work and thats what i used but i guess any other automotive type RTV will work just fine    |
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Post by Joel_CA on Nov 26, 2006 19:59:54 GMT -5
Excellent job! Should the Oring crack or become hardened over time- the sealant you applied should keep things in check. BTW- NICE TOOLBOX MAN!! Me got one too   J |
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Post by ozms on Nov 26, 2006 21:26:44 GMT -5
thank you for the write up Joel....i would have probably spent a lot longer time on that driver side seal if it wasn't for the tip of disconnecting the tranny dipstick tube...as little as that may seem that makes a huge difference when working blind with the eyes of the finger tips.....oh and GREAT Tool box setup you got there too... mine is a KRL1023PES i don't have a full pic of it but im sure you have seen them since its close to yours minus a couple of drawers and i don't have 3 locks across the top just one in the middle for all drawers.... i work on aircraft so having the top boxes and other cool accessories make it hard to move around the plane with mine i just barely clear the bottom of the wing... so hopefully i wont need any more tools and have to "expand"
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