Post by Joel_CA on Nov 17, 2003 14:35:37 GMT -5
Here's a few Frequently Asked Questions that I've answered and locked down so I can refer to this section when the question is asked again.
Q- After having my battery replaced (or jumpstarted or disconnected during a service), my engine refuses to idle and sometimes wants to die at a stoplight. What happened and what can I do?
A- Basically, your idle adaptive memory was erased when your battery died (or was disconnected) and you're idle air control (IAC) motor is now starting at a nearly closed position. Over time, carbon/oil build up around the throttle plate can restrict the amount of air that can flow past it... as more carbon builds up, the IAC allows more air to bypass the throttle plate to maintain idle (this IAC position is stored in an adaptive memory). Once the battery is disconnected, this adaptive setting is erased, IAC motor is reset, and now you're engine is chocking for air. To get this back to spec, you'll need to clean out the carbon/oil build up around the throttle plate to allow your engine to breathe again.
To clean the throttle plate and throttle body bore, disconnect your battery to erase any adaptive idle memory that you ECU has attempted to restored. After removing the intake hose from the throttle body, use some throttle body/ carb cleaner spray and spray it onto a shop rag and clean the area around the throttle plate bore, and the throttle plate itself- using the rag to wipe the area clean of any carbon buildup. Wipe everthing dry and wait a few minutes to give the cleaner a chance to completely evaporate. Go ahead and reinstall your rubber intake tube and reconnect your battery. Dont forget to reconnect the MassAirflow Sensor if you disconnected it Allow the engine to run for a few minutes and to recheck your idle quality. To verify everything is okay, allow the engine to idle for a few seconds and try grounding the power steering pressure switch wire (there's a single wire going to a switch at the power steering pump). Your idle speed should "bump up" a few hunded RPM's before settling down. You can also try allowing it to idle, then turn on your AC- again, the idle speed should bump up a few hunder RPM's before settling down. Good luck!
Q- My transmission is in need of a service. Do I need to have have the transmission completely flushed or can I just do the drain and refill myself? What type of ATF should I use?
A- It all depends on how dirty your fluid is... A basic tranny service usually includes just draining the transmission through the drainbolt in the transmision oil pan while sometimes including a filter replacement (99 and newer only). While this is sufficient in most cases- almost 50% of the fluid still remains inside the transmission nooks and crannys not to mention the huge torque converter. This remaining fluid would then mix with the new fluid that is added to the transmission at the end of the service. If your fluid is very burnt and very dirty- this 50% fluid will just about ruin the new fluid that has been added and shorten the ATF replacement interval of the current service. That is where a complete flush is required. A transmission flush uses a machine that drains the transmission of it's dirty fluid through the transmission cooler line output port, as it adds new fluid through the transmission cooler line return port- all of this while the engine is running and transmission is shifted through it's gears. This will ensure that all of the nooks and crannys of the tranny as well as the torque converter is thoroughly flushed out with new fluid. While it requires LOTS of fluid (sometimes over 15-20 qts- depending on how burnt the fluid is)- it's well worth the expense if you value the life expectancy of your transmission. Again, while it's not neccesary to flush your transmission each and every time, it may be neccesary if you service has been neglected and the fluid inside the trans is burnt. Once the flush has been performed and the internal filter has been replaced, regular drain and fill service should be enough to maintain the transmission from then on (under normal driving conditions). ALWAYS use Mitsu SPIII ATF (or Chrysler ATF +4)for your transmission especially 99 and newer MS' as the transmission is these models are very sensitive to which ATF is being used. Shuddering at HWY speeds is a common occurance if the wrong ATF is used due to slippage/premature wear of the torque converter lockup clutch. 97-98 models can use Dextron II or SPIII but the type chosen should be used for the life of the transmission or the transmission should be completely flushed with the transmission fluid of choice between the two. In other words, the 2 ATF types should NOT be mixed. FYI- 97 and 98 Sports do NOT have a replaceable filter. Inside the pan is a metal screen that can be removed and cleaned if desired. 99 and newer transmission have a replaceable filter that should be replaced during service if the existing fluid is burned or neglected. A simple drain and fill can be performed if the existing fluid is still in good condition and is just being replaced for preventative maintenance.
Q- A few days ago my Parking Brake Light began coming on intermittently. I have checked numerous times to make sure that the brake is released completely and it is. It began doing this when temperatures dropped below freezing....... Coincidence?
A- The Brake warning lamp in the dash is also a "low fluid" warning light for the brake fluid resevoir. Verify that your brake fluid resevoir is full- NOT BY JUST LOOKING AT IT FROM THE OUTSIDE- but by actually opening the top and taking a peek. Theres a rubber diaphram on the resevoir lid that will expand as the brake fluid level goes down giving the appearance of a full resevoir..... Unless you open the top, you'll never truely know the actual level. If your fluid level is low- have your brakes inspected for possible wear as the fluid level will drop to displace the fluid in the caliper as the pads wear down- don't just top it off leave this matter uninspected! Coincidence with the temperature? Nope- fluid expands as it gets hot and brake fluid is no different. In early cold mornings, the fluid level is just low enough to trigger the resevoir sensor- after a few miles of driving, the fluid lines in the engine compartment start to heat up warming the fluid causing it to expand just enough to turn off the light.
Q- My antenna wont go down unless i push on the top of it while the antenna motor is still winding down. anybody have any ideas how to fix this?
A- Looks like the plastic rack gear inside of the antenna rod broke. If your antenna is stuck in the UP position when the plastic rack gear broke, there's a very good chance that you might be able to just install a new antenna mast get a new antenna to work- even with the broken piece still inside the motor housing. Usually, if the antenna is extended and the rack gears breaks- there's somewhere around 3-5 inches of the rack gear floating inside the housing. This 3-5 inches may not impede the installation of a new mast. If the rack gear broke in the down posiiton, them most of the rack gear is stuck in the motor unit and WILL impede the installation of a new mast unless the motor is accessed,
, disassembled, and the broken rack gear removed. The down side of this is that the only way to know for sure is to actually try and install a new mast assembly- wont take long and is easy for a DIY'er. If the motor won't take the new mast assembly, the motor has to be access, disassembled, and the broken pieces have to be removed- before it will take in the new mast.
Q- I have a steering wheel shake on my Montero Sport that I can't seem to get rid of.... what can I do about it? or I have a clunk from my suspension over bumps or small pot holes.... where to I look?
A- Make sure the front wheel bearing preload is set... looseness in the wheel bearings will allow the wheel to wobble down the road. Check for worn steering links (especially Idler Arm) for excessive movement. Also, have your local dealership rebalance the tires using the special hub adapter tool (MB991791-01) that hopefully they'll actually have on their tool board. (Ask first- if they don't have it....move on). As far as clunks, aside from the above, have the ball joints inspected and swaybar links (very likely).
Q- I can smell something burning (almost like oil)after driving my truck- sometimes I even see smoke. What can it be??
A- The only real consistant oil leak from one MS to another is from the rear cam Oring Seals. Outside of that, the MS doesn't really have a common oil leak area. The cam Oring seal is located in the back of each cylinder head at the opening where the camshaft is installed. There is an eye shaped aluminum plug with an O ring seal inside that will harden over time and start leaking. It almost always leaks down onto the transmission bell housing or engine block, then down onto the exhaust system. That is where the burning smell comes from. There is an updated part available (PN- MN176208) to help prevent this from reoccuring. An added preventative procedure i'd also recommend is adding a bit of O2 sensor safe silcone sealant to the flats of the aluminum bore plug as a backup.
Q- I would like to know what the 'A/T Mode' switch does. The manual gave a vague description and made me more confused.
A- The AT switch will force a second gear start which will limit torque at the wheels for reduces likelihood of wheel spin. Works great in the snow or even on a boat ramp....
Joel_CA
Q- After having my battery replaced (or jumpstarted or disconnected during a service), my engine refuses to idle and sometimes wants to die at a stoplight. What happened and what can I do?
A- Basically, your idle adaptive memory was erased when your battery died (or was disconnected) and you're idle air control (IAC) motor is now starting at a nearly closed position. Over time, carbon/oil build up around the throttle plate can restrict the amount of air that can flow past it... as more carbon builds up, the IAC allows more air to bypass the throttle plate to maintain idle (this IAC position is stored in an adaptive memory). Once the battery is disconnected, this adaptive setting is erased, IAC motor is reset, and now you're engine is chocking for air. To get this back to spec, you'll need to clean out the carbon/oil build up around the throttle plate to allow your engine to breathe again.
To clean the throttle plate and throttle body bore, disconnect your battery to erase any adaptive idle memory that you ECU has attempted to restored. After removing the intake hose from the throttle body, use some throttle body/ carb cleaner spray and spray it onto a shop rag and clean the area around the throttle plate bore, and the throttle plate itself- using the rag to wipe the area clean of any carbon buildup. Wipe everthing dry and wait a few minutes to give the cleaner a chance to completely evaporate. Go ahead and reinstall your rubber intake tube and reconnect your battery. Dont forget to reconnect the MassAirflow Sensor if you disconnected it Allow the engine to run for a few minutes and to recheck your idle quality. To verify everything is okay, allow the engine to idle for a few seconds and try grounding the power steering pressure switch wire (there's a single wire going to a switch at the power steering pump). Your idle speed should "bump up" a few hunded RPM's before settling down. You can also try allowing it to idle, then turn on your AC- again, the idle speed should bump up a few hunder RPM's before settling down. Good luck!
Q- My transmission is in need of a service. Do I need to have have the transmission completely flushed or can I just do the drain and refill myself? What type of ATF should I use?
A- It all depends on how dirty your fluid is... A basic tranny service usually includes just draining the transmission through the drainbolt in the transmision oil pan while sometimes including a filter replacement (99 and newer only). While this is sufficient in most cases- almost 50% of the fluid still remains inside the transmission nooks and crannys not to mention the huge torque converter. This remaining fluid would then mix with the new fluid that is added to the transmission at the end of the service. If your fluid is very burnt and very dirty- this 50% fluid will just about ruin the new fluid that has been added and shorten the ATF replacement interval of the current service. That is where a complete flush is required. A transmission flush uses a machine that drains the transmission of it's dirty fluid through the transmission cooler line output port, as it adds new fluid through the transmission cooler line return port- all of this while the engine is running and transmission is shifted through it's gears. This will ensure that all of the nooks and crannys of the tranny as well as the torque converter is thoroughly flushed out with new fluid. While it requires LOTS of fluid (sometimes over 15-20 qts- depending on how burnt the fluid is)- it's well worth the expense if you value the life expectancy of your transmission. Again, while it's not neccesary to flush your transmission each and every time, it may be neccesary if you service has been neglected and the fluid inside the trans is burnt. Once the flush has been performed and the internal filter has been replaced, regular drain and fill service should be enough to maintain the transmission from then on (under normal driving conditions). ALWAYS use Mitsu SPIII ATF (or Chrysler ATF +4)for your transmission especially 99 and newer MS' as the transmission is these models are very sensitive to which ATF is being used. Shuddering at HWY speeds is a common occurance if the wrong ATF is used due to slippage/premature wear of the torque converter lockup clutch. 97-98 models can use Dextron II or SPIII but the type chosen should be used for the life of the transmission or the transmission should be completely flushed with the transmission fluid of choice between the two. In other words, the 2 ATF types should NOT be mixed. FYI- 97 and 98 Sports do NOT have a replaceable filter. Inside the pan is a metal screen that can be removed and cleaned if desired. 99 and newer transmission have a replaceable filter that should be replaced during service if the existing fluid is burned or neglected. A simple drain and fill can be performed if the existing fluid is still in good condition and is just being replaced for preventative maintenance.
Q- A few days ago my Parking Brake Light began coming on intermittently. I have checked numerous times to make sure that the brake is released completely and it is. It began doing this when temperatures dropped below freezing....... Coincidence?
A- The Brake warning lamp in the dash is also a "low fluid" warning light for the brake fluid resevoir. Verify that your brake fluid resevoir is full- NOT BY JUST LOOKING AT IT FROM THE OUTSIDE- but by actually opening the top and taking a peek. Theres a rubber diaphram on the resevoir lid that will expand as the brake fluid level goes down giving the appearance of a full resevoir..... Unless you open the top, you'll never truely know the actual level. If your fluid level is low- have your brakes inspected for possible wear as the fluid level will drop to displace the fluid in the caliper as the pads wear down- don't just top it off leave this matter uninspected! Coincidence with the temperature? Nope- fluid expands as it gets hot and brake fluid is no different. In early cold mornings, the fluid level is just low enough to trigger the resevoir sensor- after a few miles of driving, the fluid lines in the engine compartment start to heat up warming the fluid causing it to expand just enough to turn off the light.
Q- My antenna wont go down unless i push on the top of it while the antenna motor is still winding down. anybody have any ideas how to fix this?
A- Looks like the plastic rack gear inside of the antenna rod broke. If your antenna is stuck in the UP position when the plastic rack gear broke, there's a very good chance that you might be able to just install a new antenna mast get a new antenna to work- even with the broken piece still inside the motor housing. Usually, if the antenna is extended and the rack gears breaks- there's somewhere around 3-5 inches of the rack gear floating inside the housing. This 3-5 inches may not impede the installation of a new mast. If the rack gear broke in the down posiiton, them most of the rack gear is stuck in the motor unit and WILL impede the installation of a new mast unless the motor is accessed,
, disassembled, and the broken rack gear removed. The down side of this is that the only way to know for sure is to actually try and install a new mast assembly- wont take long and is easy for a DIY'er. If the motor won't take the new mast assembly, the motor has to be access, disassembled, and the broken pieces have to be removed- before it will take in the new mast.
Q- I have a steering wheel shake on my Montero Sport that I can't seem to get rid of.... what can I do about it? or I have a clunk from my suspension over bumps or small pot holes.... where to I look?
A- Make sure the front wheel bearing preload is set... looseness in the wheel bearings will allow the wheel to wobble down the road. Check for worn steering links (especially Idler Arm) for excessive movement. Also, have your local dealership rebalance the tires using the special hub adapter tool (MB991791-01) that hopefully they'll actually have on their tool board. (Ask first- if they don't have it....move on). As far as clunks, aside from the above, have the ball joints inspected and swaybar links (very likely).
Q- I can smell something burning (almost like oil)after driving my truck- sometimes I even see smoke. What can it be??
A- The only real consistant oil leak from one MS to another is from the rear cam Oring Seals. Outside of that, the MS doesn't really have a common oil leak area. The cam Oring seal is located in the back of each cylinder head at the opening where the camshaft is installed. There is an eye shaped aluminum plug with an O ring seal inside that will harden over time and start leaking. It almost always leaks down onto the transmission bell housing or engine block, then down onto the exhaust system. That is where the burning smell comes from. There is an updated part available (PN- MN176208) to help prevent this from reoccuring. An added preventative procedure i'd also recommend is adding a bit of O2 sensor safe silcone sealant to the flats of the aluminum bore plug as a backup.
Q- I would like to know what the 'A/T Mode' switch does. The manual gave a vague description and made me more confused.
A- The AT switch will force a second gear start which will limit torque at the wheels for reduces likelihood of wheel spin. Works great in the snow or even on a boat ramp....
Joel_CA