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Post by dirk on Oct 3, 2017 23:06:08 GMT -5
Do you have an OBD II scanner or an OBDII bluetooth/WiFi dongle? If so you can hook it up and see when the self checks are completed after you reset the ECM. Usually takes a little bit of time and/or miles before all of them show as complete. If there are any incomplete ones most inspection stations won't do any checks. Or they will have to run/drive it till all are completed before doing the checks.
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Post by dutchc on Oct 6, 2017 15:53:00 GMT -5
Took it in yesterday after driving about 100 miles and about a week. Passed smog with flying colors. This car belongs to the wife. She has had it since new. Prior to the last year, very little money has gone toward maintenance. I am amazed at how smooth and quiet the vehicle runs. If not for that, I would likely sell it.
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Post by jkdv8 on Oct 28, 2017 11:53:06 GMT -5
jkdv8... thank you for that bit of info. I was able to reach back and remove those bolts and thus remove the bracket. It was your confirmation that gave me the confidence to do it. Both the solenoid and the valve have been replaced. Hopefully this will solve the " check engine light " problem . Had my local auto shop reset the computer. I will now drive it around a bit before taking it to the smog shop. Thanks again for your help No problem, hopefully that fixed it.
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csmgj
Newbie
Making one good one out of two
Posts: 7
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Post by csmgj on Mar 27, 2019 12:40:30 GMT -5
Ok, maybe a little background first. My niece bought a Montero Sport in the hopes it needed an easy fix. Found out the timing belt broke and seemed to cause major damage. I told my niece just to get rid of it, but before she did a friend of mine totalled his beloved Montero Sport to her cheap. Wound up jacking the bodies off both vehicles, swapping drive trains from one chassis to the other, and then putting the good body back on it's chassis. Miracle of all miracles, it NOW RUNS!!!! But it's giving a P0403 code. We swapped the solenoid off the donor vehicle to no avail. It starts good and runs, but has horrible hesitation. No power unless you floor it. I tried the pinch trick. At first it just bogged a bit. But after letting it warm up I pinched it again and it stalled (and I'm just remembering I left the switch on) I unplugged the solenoid while running, but it did nothing. I used a test light to check the plug. On this terminal: I got hot while it was running, and ground with the ignition off: With the other terminal, I did not get ground or hot. Seems when I checked it with a VOM I got 12V I reckon my biggest question, what do I test next? How exactly does this solenoid work? I tried putting 12V to my extra solenoid but it done nothing. Does it change resistance based on vacuum? What resistance should it read? I know this is an old thread, should I started another, or is this a good continuation?
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csmgj
Newbie
Making one good one out of two
Posts: 7
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Post by csmgj on Mar 27, 2019 13:31:46 GMT -5
Also, watched a video and had a thought, so I disconnected the vacuum line from the EGR so see if it would drive any differently, and it did not. It bogs at lower RPM, but picks up power at higher RPM. Seems this engine was working fine before the crash. Hmmm.
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Post by jkdv8 on Mar 28, 2019 18:51:34 GMT -5
I would suggest getting one from the dealer. Use the vin from the vehicle the engine came out of as they're not all interchangeable even though they look the same. Also check all the vacuum lines or just replace them.
It shouldn't be doing anything at idle. Purpose of the EGR is to recirculate exhaust gases to lower combustion temps which in turn lowers NOx emissions. Is occurs mainly at higher rpms and/or underload.
All that sounds normal, as far as I know it's either off or on. It should hold vacuum when running (12+) and release vacuum with no power or when the ecm triggers EGR function which in turn allows vacuum to open the valve. I believe the resistance should be between 35-44ohms but I'm not positive on that and your ymmv.
Edit An 03 manual I have says the resistance should read 29-35 ohms @ 70°, not 35-44.
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Post by jkdv8 on Mar 31, 2019 17:22:59 GMT -5
Are both vehicles the same as far as year and engine?
I should've added that if the solenoid and circuit check out it could be the valve itself (unlikely) or a component related to the system. It could also be an entirely different system that is throwing it for a loop.
You also dont need the buy from the dealer but OEM electrical parts on these are usually a must to avoid additional issues. If you do need one you can one find one elsewhere by all means
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