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Post by sujeemax on Nov 18, 2010 17:05:18 GMT -5
Thank you iceytys.
I think at this point I need to clarify my self one thing before I start testing. I guess I'm a bit confused after the posts.
The "Freewheel Clutch Solenoid Valve" is by the front diff. Is that correct?
If thats so where do I find the 4WD switches that buggzyy is talking about? (Is it the one by the passenger side wall under the hood?)
Thanks
Max
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Post by iceytys on Nov 19, 2010 9:58:21 GMT -5
Max,
As mentioned before, I would start with the switches, in particular the Freewheel Engagement Switch since its the easiest to diagnose. The switch itself is located on the bottom rear of the front differential housing, you cant miss it once you crawl up under the truck. Once you find it trace the wires back to the link connector (which is behind the passenger side front wheel), there you can disconnect the link and put a jumper wire to test to see if that switch is the culprit.
The other switches Buggzyy is referring to are located in various location on the top side of the transfer case and are quite cumbersome to access. The best way I can describe them is once you identify the Freewheel Engagement Switch, on the front differential, you will now what you are looking for on the transfer case. The swtiches basically look like a nut with two wires sticking out of them. Also once you've identified the link for freewheel engagement switch, you can then crawl under the drivers side door and on the side of the transfer case you will see two more links, one is the Hi/Lo switch and the other is the 4WD detection switch. I'd be willing to bet if you do in fact have a switch problem one of these 3 switches I have mentioned would be the issue.
How do you test the switches you ask??? Best way is to disconnect one of the switches (the one your currently testing) and put a jumper wire to fool the CPU into thinking the circuit is closed. Start up your MS and put it in neutral and shift into 4HI. At that point the system will begin engaging the 4WD system if the light stays steady then you've narrowed it down to the area of the problem. Its the front differential, or something not right on the transfer case area. At that point you can then remove the switch itself and test the switch itself for continnuity.
I hope that helps you a bit....believe me once you work with the first switch on the front differential it will help you identify the others.
As for the Solenoid Valve, they are different and are located on the inside of the engine compartment on the wheel well of the passenger side. If you look at the 2nd link I posted you will see a picture of the valves. They are called "Vacuum Solenoid Valves" on the page.
Again, i would start with the switch test on the front differential 1st, that way you can at the least identify whether the problem is up front or at the transfer case.
I hope that better explains it.
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Post by sujeemax on Nov 22, 2010 12:48:16 GMT -5
Thanks a lot iceytys. I will start working on this soon. I really appreciate the help. Max, As mentioned before, I would start with the switches, in particular the Freewheel Engagement Switch since its the easiest to diagnose. The switch itself is located on the bottom rear of the front differential housing, you cant miss it once you crawl up under the truck. Once you find it trace the wires back to the link connector (which is behind the passenger side front wheel), there you can disconnect the link and put a jumper wire to test to see if that switch is the culprit. The other switches Buggzyy is referring to are located in various location on the top side of the transfer case and are quite cumbersome to access. The best way I can describe them is once you identify the Freewheel Engagement Switch, on the front differential, you will now what you are looking for on the transfer case. The swtiches basically look like a nut with two wires sticking out of them. Also once you've identified the link for freewheel engagement switch, you can then crawl under the drivers side door and on the side of the transfer case you will see two more links, one is the Hi/Lo switch and the other is the 4WD detection switch. I'd be willing to bet if you do in fact have a switch problem one of these 3 switches I have mentioned would be the issue. How do you test the switches you ask??? Best way is to disconnect one of the switches (the one your currently testing) and put a jumper wire to fool the CPU into thinking the circuit is closed. Start up your MS and put it in neutral and shift into 4HI. At that point the system will begin engaging the 4WD system if the light stays steady then you've narrowed it down to the area of the problem. Its the front differential, or something not right on the transfer case area. At that point you can then remove the switch itself and test the switch itself for continnuity. I hope that helps you a bit....believe me once you work with the first switch on the front differential it will help you identify the others. As for the Solenoid Valve, they are different and are located on the inside of the engine compartment on the wheel well of the passenger side. If you look at the 2nd link I posted you will see a picture of the valves. They are called "Vacuum Solenoid Valves" on the page. Again, i would start with the switch test on the front differential 1st, that way you can at the least identify whether the problem is up front or at the transfer case. I hope that better explains it.
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Post by sujeemax on Nov 30, 2010 22:12:14 GMT -5
Well I think i fixed it. But I didn't have to replace the switches. I did the first thing that was advised to me, moving the 4WD gear back and forth 50 times. And now the light stays on Green. Sometime when I first engage it wile in Neutral it flashes, but once I switch to D the light is steady. I hope it stays that way. I use it this week when i went down to Vancouver B.C. It was snowing heavily and the 4wd came in handy. Thanks for all you help.
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Post by iceytys on Dec 1, 2010 16:13:08 GMT -5
No sweat, glad you got it working. Youre symptom is probably an indication that one of your switches was probably not making contact, which happens if 4WD is not used regularly, you should be good to go this winter. Enjoy it....still waiting for a good snow here in Denver!!!
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Post by newguy on Mar 1, 2011 3:32:11 GMT -5
I have an 03 XLS A4WD that I got really cheap because it had been poorly taken care of and I think probably been repossessed. When I bought it they said the 4wd didn't work and wasn't worth fixing. But after a lot of work and taking the center console/lever apart, I got it to shift. At first it was really really hard to get to engage and even harder to get back out. But the more I used it the easier it got. I actually never got any light indicating 4wd, I just had to tell by the sound/handling of the vehicle. Recently it has started to light up intermittently in 4H. After reading this thread I'm pretty sure it is just a bum switch (which is what I thought since it goes in and out pretty easily now). But I just want to be sure is this just a switch/light problem? In other words is there a mechanical reason that I need to worry about fixing this light, or is it just for knowledge that the 4wd has engaged?
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Post by monty98 on Mar 2, 2011 13:28:25 GMT -5
I'm not positive on the 2nd gen MS's, since they are awd vs my part time 4wd. but when the light flashes on mine and the actual 4x4 lever is not engaged, it just means the front axle is having trouble disengaging the front free wheeling hub. (this usually happens in like -5 weather, which we've had a lot of recently!)
So no not really a concern since the actual transfer case (in my situation) is not engaged. Like I said though...this is with 97 to 99(2000?) MS's that I know of.
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Post by shadowglory on Mar 2, 2011 21:18:22 GMT -5
I had a similar situation recently, for which I had a mechanical cause for the malfunction. Somehow(don't ask, I don't know) the transmission cooler lines(pretty sure thats what they are) came loose from their mounting brackets(one near the alternator and the other a bit further back) and fell down on top of the freewheeling solenoid, breaking off the vacuum nipple on the outter side of the unit (the side that does not have the rod coming from it). I knew about this a while back and since a new freewheeling solenoid is $150 factory only, I decided to redneck-rig the nipple back in place. Fast forward to two weeks ago and the redneck-rigging did not last. I disassembled the unit, blocked the existing vacuum hole and redrilled one large enough for a rubber valve stem (the pullthrough kind for a rim/tire) in the center of the cap. I also removed the spring that pulls the unit to engage the front axle when the truck shuts off ( I do not recommend doing this until all else has been tried). I removed the inner valve mechanism from the valve stem so that the valve can act as a vacuum nipple and painstakingly put the vaccum line over the end of the valve stem(where the cap normally screws on). This setup is working really well and I was able to recover about 3/4 of the full-travel which works great as long as the truck is running. I noticed that the spring that engages the front axle when the truck shuts off is not necessary because the axle will lock in or out when the truck is off depending on which way it was when the engine is shut down. I do see that removing the spring is a bit of a safety issue that would help keep the truck from rolling,(if you were four-wheeling and shut off the truck on a hill) but the vacuum valve does not move when the truck is shut down, so it should be okay. I just have to remember that the system is mildly-compromised when I get in that situation. I highly recommend this fix for anyone having difficulty with the freewheeling vacuum solenoid before shelling out $$$ to mitsubishi.
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Post by dillpics on May 11, 2011 15:10:17 GMT -5
Thanks to everyone here I got me flashing light and abs light problem fixed. I only use 4wd about 5 times a year and because of the kind people on this forum I now know to use it once in a while to keep the switches working. With all that level moving I almost forgot I had an automatic. Thanks again you knew exactly what I need to do. Dillon
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Post by donkeeh1 on Oct 16, 2012 10:31:13 GMT -5
bumping this cause now it's my turn and mine is a bit different...my AWD is NOT engaging but i can drive in 4h and 4l i did a tranny fluid change and used ams oil then found out that i HAVE to use mitsu tranny oil and my service advisor at mitsu also told me to change the detection switches...does anyone have a diagram or picture of where they're located and a how to on the switches??? thanks could use the help asap please thank you guys!!!!
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Post by buggzyy on Oct 17, 2012 0:13:50 GMT -5
Why do you think the AWD is not active. If you have AWD the transfer doesn't have a 2wd option its impossible to select 2wd. The AWD transfers are all mechanical all the switches do is tell the ABS ecu that you have selected the 4WD or 4Lo range and adjust the braking as needed. see the link for a top view of the transfer case as its displayed in the parts catalog for locations of the switches now your may not have all of them you will have to call and give your vin to be sure which one you need. msport97.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=general&action=display&thread=8300Also you don't have to remove the transfer or transmission to change these you will however need to drop the center cross member down and support the trans with a jack so you can lower it enough to reach the switches.
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Post by donkeeh1 on Oct 17, 2012 15:19:53 GMT -5
I mean when I'm in AWD mode not a single gear engeges not even park....BUT when I'm in 4h or 4l it works like a champ...as soon as I have money I'm gonna do a tranny flush at mitsu with the mitsu tranny oil...and replace all the switches myself...
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