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Post by ES_97Sport on Oct 15, 2015 14:48:58 GMT -5
I think I paid 20 to 25 for my set. And about 50 for both seals and all 4 front wheel bearings. Add in Autozone kept trying to swap my Timkens with their house brand bearings so the manager gave me 2 rubes of Mobile 1 synthetic grease for my hassle. 75 is cheap and very worth while investment verse having them done by someone else. I was quoted about 10+ hours to do the job. Between everyone here and an old mechanic friend we did new performance pads, rotors, bearings, seals, and manual hubs on the front for a fraction of the cost to have them done elsewhere. And it was a good learning experience for me. 10 hours?!? Wow! For both fronts, inners and outers??? Wow! That's just ... wow. No wonder everyone wanted me to do this stuff back when. I was WAY under charging! Tech and I were talking about this a couple weeks ago. I think the dealership has that down for 4 hours, both sides. Yep, stick with the Timkens. I've been through that before. Same reason I only use Spicer joints - quality is a lot higher and they last a LOT longer. Moog used to be a good choice, too, but the set of tie rod ends I got year before last were a little questionable. I don't mind doing the front hubs. Easy job and its pretty quick after you've done it a couple times. Everyone always screws up the torque part, so this is a good write up just for that part. Just need a good torque wrench. Some of you are going to have a heart attack seeing this, but THIS is a torque wrench. Amazon - SK Hand Tool75250 1/2-Inch Drive Micrometer Adjustable Torque Wrench, 25-250-Feet PoundEdward
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Post by dirk on Oct 15, 2015 17:40:32 GMT -5
Yeah, originally they were talking 3.5 hours per bearing. So 14 hours total. I talk them down a bit since they would have it all apart to do the one already on that side. Then even after the discount. I still was like to heck with that. I did the rears and flushed the brake fluid. I do wish I knew how to activate the ABS while I was putting the new fluid in. Pedal feels better, but still way mushy compared to what I am used to.
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Post by ES_97Sport on Oct 15, 2015 18:23:00 GMT -5
Yeah, originally they were talking 3.5 hours per bearing. So 14 hours total. I talk them down a bit since they would have it all apart to do the one already on that side. Then even after the discount. I still was like to heck with that. I did the rears and flushed the brake fluid. I do wish I knew how to activate the ABS while I was putting the new fluid in. Pedal feels better, but still way mushy compared to what I am used to. 14 hours?!!!!? 3.5 hours A BEARING?!? DANG! What were they going to do, MAKE the bearings, too??? It shouldn't take more than 30-45 minutes to pop the races, replace them, grease the bearings, insert the rears and replace the seals. 1-1.5 hours a side to tear everything apart, replace everything - including brakes - and put it all back together. It took me 30 minutes to replace the front plates with locking hubs and I did that sitting in the parking lot outside the 4X shop I bought the hubs from. Holy cow, I couldn't have kept a straight face if someone had told me that. Yep, there with you on that. I don't have the ABS gizmo either. No need since I only have the '03 with ABS. My '97s didn't come with it and I'm ripping it out of the '99. Edward
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Post by pinstryper on Oct 15, 2015 19:31:46 GMT -5
Bet my Snap-on 300+ glad I still have it. And always remember to back off the torque settings when not in use.
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Post by ES_97Sport on Oct 16, 2015 12:39:13 GMT -5
Bet my Snap-on 300+ glad I still have it. And always remember to back off the torque settings when not in use. Yea, everyone forgets that, too. I was checking the card in my S&K. They say you don't have to do that on the torque wrench I noted above. I still do, though. Edward
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Post by ES_97Sport on Dec 1, 2015 17:07:58 GMT -5
This think that should read ...
"15.) Remove the 6 bolts (red arrow) holding the hub to the brake disc. And remove the 4 bolts (yellow arrow) holding the ABS tone ring to the brake disc.
16.) Separate the ABS tone ring (red arrow) from the disc."
Edward
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Post by monteromudding on Apr 10, 2016 21:03:22 GMT -5
I have a quick question. I took both sides apart at the same time so I don't have a reference. I've never done this before. I have the bearings reassembled and ready to go back in. I forget which way the inner seals go in. Spring side in (toward the bearing) or spring side out (toward the knuckle)?? (Picture One or Picture Two?)
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Post by fikse on May 9, 2016 7:07:09 GMT -5
Oh my I should have read this article before buying bearing... I ended up with the same kit as you, namely the SKF: VKBA 6914, who many states as suitable for the MS but for sure it doesn't fit Thats $250,-, hopefully I will find someone with a Monter (Pajero here) that will buy it :-) Mine '00 Pajero Sport 4wd looks just like yours in picture #21, and my bearing kit/hub is also looking identical. Anyway: Is there several bearings/dimensions available that actually will fit? Does anyone have a SKF, FAG or Mitsubishi part number? Thank you :-)
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Post by fikse on May 10, 2016 3:35:06 GMT -5
I have a quick question. I took both sides apart at the same time so I don't have a reference. I've never done this before. I have the bearings reassembled and ready to go back in. I forget which way the inner seals go in. Spring side in (toward the bearing) or spring side out (toward the knuckle)?? (Picture One or Picture Two?) Springside into the bearing, for sure. Picture #2. All dustcaps like this should have the slick side out, to make a slick surface against dust.
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Post by fikse on May 10, 2016 3:53:59 GMT -5
I have discovered there is two set of lifes for man. Pre and post marriage. Luckily quite some of my tools-investement was done pre marriage: Facom does have some nice tools. And I know for sure; if I bought that one post marriage I wouldn't be able to write this :-P BTW: A friend of mine, working as tool maker since the 1960's, still claims that all torque wrenches (except some odd ones who is preset for just one setting) should be reset after every use. I have had a few torque wrenches both at home and work, and still none of them has ever gone way out of calibration. Even a cheap and quite rusty one stays within acceptable limits.
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Post by fikse on May 3, 2017 13:20:36 GMT -5
Dismantled, cleaned and regreased bearings on one side on mine today. Big surprise that the original bearings after 17 years and 187.000 Miles still is in fine condition. A good clean and some QMI PTFE grease and ready for some more Miles. But, the axle spindle has some play, but unsure if it's to much. No noise when driving... What do you think?
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Post by pinstryper on May 4, 2017 18:50:56 GMT -5
no need to slot the screws if you have a impact driver, and the big nut will remove with a drift and a hammer. Nice write up though should be stickied? Thanks
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