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Post by bdmontero on Jul 28, 2012 19:00:20 GMT -5
Just took a trip to Salina KS. Just fyi it is 110 here during the day. Which is when we did our driving. It never overheated just raises when accel. And lowers upon deceleration. Checked hoses and radiator didn't see any leaks. No bubbling in overflow tank. Is that normal? It is butt hot outside. Any ideas? It has never overheated so i dont see how i could have blown a head gasket. I was not towing either.
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Post by akalt24 on Jul 29, 2012 2:10:10 GMT -5
Dear bdmontero im no expert but i had a small issue of overheating before and used some water weter it did return to normal as this is just a quick fix and should not be needed if everything was fine so i decided few months later before winter to flush the cooling system i did that and added antifrezz 50/50 with alittle more water than antifrezz as i live in georgia and we dont get super cold. that summer I drain some anti frezz and replaced with mostly water and never had any issues later on i had tbelt replacement in summer and had anti frezz mix correct to spec and have not had any issues. Not sure if the flush did the trick or draining the old fluid and replaceing with fresh. of course mostly water and or water wetter is going make it cooler it should not be needed. dont forget age of water pump and possable pump fin damage.
I know you know monteros alot better than me and sure someone will come along soon to help but just some thoughts and things to consider to add to your check list.
how old is freon and the mix ratio
check for hose collapse when reving
fan clutch
flush could help if a blockage is some where slowing down flow
I wouldn't think gauge or temp send failue if its doing it only when accel
make sure belt is not slipping or to slack
always consider checking wires and electric fans and anything else but im sure you know all of this and dont need me telling you.. ...
Just curious for more detail how quickly is it rising and falling and by how high? is this happing during middle day or when its hot out? right after warm up or at night? from stop sign to stop sign or slow/fast/highway driving?
quick temporary fix try drains most anti frezz out and replaceing water. Flush is cheap do it your self and will help get you a more higher water mix by flushing the engine and lines. and in emergency crank up the heat and roll down the windows. I also found in emergency overheat dont turn off the car grab a water hose and slowly wet the radiator cooling it and rev up to pump water thru and continue to wet the radiator and lines till gauge goes down then turn off water. be careful using to cold of water to fast and avoid weting wires are anything not needed. I hope you find the issue soon. Im sure it`s just something simple i hope. ps what is bd mean?
*Edit* everyone has ther opion on weather or not u should run pure water or tap or distilled or some sort of additive along with it to prevent rust/corrosion i never had issues with tap in any my cars but after being an half *** mechanic at a used car lot mostly 94-2001 model cars i have noticed alot of vehicals that rain only water and the result was rust rust rust and nastyness I spent half a day trying to flush out a impala and still after runing it and re flushing it she still had rusty/brown looking water hard to hide from customers. every since then i use distelld water or some additive
I also think that a engine might apericeiate and run slightly cooler useing less anti frezz or more water mix for summer time it should help alot in long run and nothing wrong with adding things to help with cooling as long as your not doing it to solve a overheat issue like what you have so i surely look into it before adding water weter and streight water like i did. also dont forget you can have it flow tested but you know that already hehe
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Post by bdmontero on Aug 1, 2012 16:07:28 GMT -5
Just fyi i do have an ARB bar and winch on the front. And i have an electric fan so that narrows it down a bit.
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Post by ES_97Sport on Aug 3, 2012 15:36:45 GMT -5
Just fyi i do have an ARB bar and winch on the front. And i have an electric fan so that narrows it down a bit. Under load you're burning more gas which means more heat is generated. It's basic physics. Nothing abnormal. I've found that with electric fans, I see just what you described. That's because the fans are not running 'full speed' 100% of the time like a mechanical fan. They play 'catch up'. Also, the ARB doesn't help.  It doesn't make a HUGE difference but it does make some. Adding a winch and 8" IPFs like mine just makes the problem a little worse. BTW, pulling ARB plate right under the winch helps. Not tons but if it's really hot like you described and you need the extra cooling it'll help a bit. You run the risk of scooping up something nasty like a big rock and putting it into the radiator, though. Always a drawback.  Do you know what temp it got to? Without knowing the actual temperature it's hard to say if there's a reason to be concerned. A lot of the time 'over heating' is in the eye of the beholder. Early '97 Sports have a 180-203 thermostat, and 98+ have a 190-212 thermostat. Technically, 212 isn't 'over heating' but it does cause a significant lift in the temperature gauge which tends to freak people that aren't used to seeing that behavior out. On my 3.0L I didn't get concerned until it started bumping 218 and then only if it stayed at that for more than a couple minutes. I'm a little more conservative on my new 3.5L engine. I don't like to push it past full open on the thermostat. About 212-214. With a mechanical fan, my 3.5L Limited doesn't get past 206 in 95 degree city driving. So, even bone stock mid to high 200-212 range isn't exactly 'abnormal'. Edward www.4x4extremesports.com |
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Post by bdmontero on Aug 3, 2012 16:13:33 GMT -5
I figured the arb and winch played a role. Wasn't worried. Just wondering.
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Post by mxmikie on Aug 4, 2012 13:47:00 GMT -5
check your radiator for hot spots and fanclutch
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Post by bdmontero on Aug 4, 2012 16:50:01 GMT -5
Hard to check a fan clutch if you don't have one. lol electric fan here.
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Post by mxmikie on Aug 7, 2012 0:45:09 GMT -5
hot spots  ? |
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Post by bdmontero on Aug 7, 2012 11:17:35 GMT -5
No its the arb and winch combo. Es_97 had the same problem. That and was 113 degrees on the road. God it was hot!!lol
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Post by ES_97Sport on Aug 10, 2012 13:56:06 GMT -5
hot spots ? Don't know about bdmontero, but I don't seem to get hot spots. The radiators really aren't that big (sq. in. area) and they're large single tube. Takes a lot to plug one up. Mine typically runs hotter on the driver side 'half' than on the passenger side 'half'. Presumably, due to the inlet/outlet position on the down-flow design. That was my rational for putting the primary fan on the DS and the secondary on the PS. bdmontero: DANG!!!! Ok. You win!  I thought 105 was nasty here. Wow! Edward |
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Post by tbaltazar411 on Aug 29, 2014 16:18:19 GMT -5
Is this the thread where you replaced the ECT sensor and it fixed? I think my symptoms are the same....
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It doesn't make a HUGE difference but it does make some. Adding a winch and 8" IPFs like mine just makes the problem a little worse. BTW, pulling ARB plate right under the winch helps. Not tons but if it's really hot like you described and you need the extra cooling it'll help a bit. You run the risk of scooping up something nasty like a big rock and putting it into the radiator, though. Always a drawback.
?
I thought 105 was nasty here. Wow!