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Post by codeman94 on Feb 6, 2013 17:44:09 GMT -5
01 MS 3.0 2wd, I replaced rear cam seals and valve cover gaskets earlier today and cleaned off engine. I still have oil on exhaust manifold and it looks like its coming from the threads. I haven't replaced front cam seals yet; could that be the problem i am having?
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Post by kaiser08854 on Feb 15, 2013 11:29:13 GMT -5
I did everything you just mentioned along with changing the front cam seals and it seems that I have the same exact leak, I know it's very frustrating I have looked everywhere and can't seem to pinpoint the leak. As far as your case check your alternator see if it has oil over it and for the left side remove the timing belt cover should be 2 screws just be careful not to drop any where the timing belt runs or you may have a major problem, once the cover is off check under and behind the cam sprocket, the cam position sensor should be located there, if no oil is present your good but welcome aboard the oil leak journey. Good luck with your finds.
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Post by buggzyy on Feb 16, 2013 2:02:00 GMT -5
After replacing the V/C gaskets you will have some residual oil that was caught up between the cover layers. this will drain out and burn off in a few miles to a few days. I have had them smoke for about an hour straight after the job. Your most common leak points are front cam oil seals mostly the RH side you will see it all over the alternator. Next is the rear cam o-rings this will cause a burning like smell after a long freeway run. Then you have the Valve cover gaskets these mostly leak into the plug wells but will leak down onto the exhaust manifold. Don't forget to clean and or replace the PCV valve after a repair this will prevent excessive crankcase pressure forcing oil out other seals.
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Post by klossi on Feb 20, 2013 17:44:09 GMT -5
How do you remove the crankshaft pulley on 3.5 montero and on the left head (fwd looking aft) there is a peak mark and a notched spot like on the right side, which is the timing mark on the left side? peak or valley?
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Post by codeman94 on Feb 21, 2013 1:53:17 GMT -5
I had the front and rear cam seals, crankshaft seal, and valve cover gasket done. Does it have to burn all of the old oil off or what? I just had the front cam seals and crankshaft seal done yesterday. So all of the oil leak should be taken care of, but it seems like i still have a small leak. The exhaust manifold bolts and the manifold look wet in spots, but i know there's no way oil can leak from there and i see no source of any oil any were but there. I don't have the money to keep sinking into this truck. If anyone can please give me some tips on what's happening I would gladly appreciate it. Thank you so much!
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Post by bdmontero on Feb 21, 2013 17:57:59 GMT -5
I had the same problem. Valve cover gaskets and tube seals were leaking as well. I changed all of it out. Valve cover gaskets. Tube seals. Spark plugs. And it still leaked. So i looked reeeeeeal good at the pcv system. The valve was bad so i had replaced it previously. But not the hose. So i put the engine under a load. And at around 3500 rpm's the hose would pinch shut. So i used some high quality hose and it seems to have stopped all leaks. Also checked the plenum hose connection. Those can get plugged up as well. I would like to add that the driver side valve cover gasket is EXTREMELY easy to roll. Took me two tries. I have heard that it only requires 7-9 inch lbs On the valve cover bolts. I took it to a guy here in town that works on those engines alot and he said the valve cover should almost touch the head. And to use shellac brown sealer. ZERO leaks. I now have to deal with a crazy temp gauge.
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Post by codeman94 on Feb 21, 2013 21:03:15 GMT -5
I had the same problem. Valve cover gaskets and tube seals were leaking as well. I changed all of it out. Valve cover gaskets. Tube seals. Spark plugs. And it still leaked. So i looked reeeeeeal good at the pcv system. The valve was bad so i had replaced it previously. But not the hose. So i put the engine under a load. And at around 3500 rpm's the hose would pinch shut. So i used some high quality hose and it seems to have stopped all leaks. Also checked the plenum hose connection. Those can get plugged up as well. I would like to add that the driver side valve cover gasket is EXTREMELY easy to roll. Took me two tries. I have heard that it only requires 7-9 inch lbs On the valve cover bolts. I took it to a guy here in town that works on those engines alot and he said the valve cover should almost touch the head. And to use shellac brown sealer. ZERO leaks. I now have to deal with a crazy temp gauge. I Have a crazy temp gauge too let me know what you find out please. |
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Post by dclambertt on Mar 30, 2015 12:45:00 GMT -5
BDMontero, what is shellac brown sealer?
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Post by bdmontero on Mar 30, 2015 14:20:17 GMT -5
Its a brown sealer. Indian gasket I bought it at Napa. I'll look as soon as I can and give you a price. That stuff is NASTY. I use it on all my Chevy valve covers.
Sent from my SM-N900V using proboards
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Post by dclambertt on Apr 13, 2015 18:17:10 GMT -5
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