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Post by pinstryper on Nov 17, 2015 21:29:50 GMT -5
What raptors did you get? Picture or link very little fits so I am open to anything
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Post by pinstryper on Nov 17, 2015 21:30:49 GMT -5
Vison raptors ok, working on gear so reading quick
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Post by redraif on Nov 18, 2015 11:56:58 GMT -5
The gear ratio is on a tag attached to the rear axle. IF the tag is still there. Or if it was there at all. I don't remember ever having one on my big Sport and I got that new with 67 miles on it. What it came with from the factory is on the VIN tag in the engine bay. There are recent pic posts of VIN tags and you can see the ratio on the tag. That, however, assumes that the ratio was never changed AFTER it made it to the dealership. The only 100% absolutely bullet proof way to tell is to pull the 3rd member and look for the stamp on the ring gear. Which sucks, 'cause if its never been pulled its a PITA. You can also do the turn the drive shaft and count the wheel rotations thing. For sure some of the Limiteds did. Apparently not all because my '99 3.5L Limited has 4.6. My '03 3.5L Limited AWD had the big 4.9. To the best of my knowledge, none of the Gen 1 2.4L came with the 4.9s. Nor any of the 3.0L LS models. Other than the high end Limiteds, I'm not really sure of the Gen 2 Sports. I remember talking to the techs many years ago about deeper gears than the 4.6 for the Gen 1s and was told that 4.9 was a dealer installed option. I looked the other day and 4.6 is the lowest showed in the FSMs. Edward Looks like I will just wait till I happen upon a limited in the junkyard... LOL! Is the 4.6 gears versus the 4.9 enough difference to do the count the wheel rotations thing? Figure that might be a better use of time when I have to verify a bunch at the picking yards versus disassembly? Now this might be a stupid question and I hate to be the one who always seems to ask them... and I pre apologize... Being new to 4wd versus rear wheel drive... and independent suspension versus a solid axle rear... I assume I would I need both the front and rear? How much of the housing do I take to swap mine over? In others words... is it just easier to yank the whole dang rear/front axle assembly off and bring it home and swap? Or it is possible to just yank the diff/chunk or a portion of it? Do I need the new axle shafts or do I use mine?
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Post by ES_97Sport on Nov 18, 2015 20:47:11 GMT -5
Looks like I will just wait till I happen upon a limited in the junkyard... LOL! Is the 4.6 gears versus the 4.9 enough difference to do the count the wheel rotations thing? Figure that might be a better use of time when I have to verify a bunch at the picking yards versus disassembly? Now this might be a stupid question and I hate to be the one who always seems to ask them... and I pre apologize... Being new to 4wd versus rear wheel drive... and independent suspension versus a solid axle rear... I assume I would I need both the front and rear? How much of the housing do I take to swap mine over? In others words... is it just easier to yank the whole dang rear/front axle assembly off and bring it home and swap? Or it is possible to just yank the diff/chunk or a portion of it? Do I need the new axle shafts or do I use mine? The easiest is to just look at the tag on the firewall in the engine bay. Not perfect, but the likelihood of missing one because someone put 4.90s in at a dealership I would think is incredibly unlikely. 4.6 to 4.9? I tried the wheel thing with my 'Bird when it had 3.36s and I swapped to 3.55s. It was impossible. YMMV. Yep, you need both the front and rear gears. The rear axle is a 3rd member - that means the gear carrier assembly actually bolts into the axle housing, but is a complete stand-alone unit. Take all the nuts off the housing, pull the 3rd member, put the new one back and them put the nuts back on. Put in new gear oil. The front is more problematic as pinstrypr is figuring out. The cheapest way is to swap the entire front housing assembly. The expensive part of all this is setting up new gears - you want to avoid that at all costs. No pun intended. That is a process you would need to have professionally done and they charge for that. Swapping out the front housing assembly and putting the new one in only requires patience, normal tools and the ability to take something apart and then reverse the process. For the back you just need the 3rd member. That's all. For the front, you'll need the entire housing. See pinstrypr's pics. Frt/rear differential removalIf the half shafts on the front are good and the boots are in good shape I'd grab those for spares. If you start wheeling, you're gonna want spares. It maybe wouldn't hurt to get the back shafts, too, for spares just in case. I've never broken one and I don't know anyone that has, but you never know. Edward
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Post by pinstryper on Nov 18, 2015 21:07:15 GMT -5
Oh yeah, your in for a bunch o' fun. And load up on your ibuprofen,48 hrs later your gonna need em. 4.6 to 4.90 wasted time, I wish I would have found 5.13
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Post by mrgalantguy on Nov 19, 2015 9:19:59 GMT -5
Vison raptors ok, working on gear so reading quick I don't have the exact specs on the wheels but I bought them through Discount Tire but selection of wheels were limited on my budget mainly because of the hub bore size.
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Post by bdmontero on Nov 19, 2015 10:26:06 GMT -5
Well they are limited in general because of the hub bore. It took 2 hours to find a set I liked and had the right hub bore size. Another reason I'm doing an SAS. ;D
Sent from my SM-N900V using proboards
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Post by pinstryper on Nov 19, 2015 21:47:56 GMT -5
I'm just going with 110 bore, maybe build a spacer later. 6 lugs @ 90lb torque should hold.
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Post by ES_97Sport on Nov 20, 2015 17:28:19 GMT -5
I'm just going with 110 bore, maybe build a spacer later. 6 lugs @ 90lb torque should hold. Spacers put stress on the bearings, spindle and hub. They're pretty universally considered to be not a very good idea. Couple that with adding heavier rims and tires ... you just kinda don't what to go there. Edward
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Post by bdmontero on Nov 20, 2015 19:15:19 GMT -5
My friend had spacers on his s10 which I told him not to put them on there. He rolled it a week later because the spacer broke the studs. This was two weeks ago.
Sent from my SM-N900V using proboards
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Post by pinstryper on Nov 20, 2015 19:23:20 GMT -5
What I should have said/ment was those plastic rings they put around your hub or centerbore on aftermarket wheels. Lost one on my scion wheels and never noticed it. Adapter as normally thought of is not good.
from beyond the pale...
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Post by redraif on Dec 1, 2015 22:42:33 GMT -5
Spacers put stress on the bearings, spindle and hub. They're pretty universally considered to be not a very good idea. Couple that with adding heavier rims and tires ... you just kinda don't what to go there. Edward I have had billet 2 piece spacer/adapters on my 3rd gen firebird since 2000. Never had an issue. Granted I did the install and am the only one who torques them with a tq wrench. My style bolts to existing oem lugs and the the spacer itself has its own new lugs. I don't get how this is anymore unsafe then a rim with a further pushed out offset? Are these the style billet spacers that you guys are saying are a bad idea. Ones that set the wheel out to a further offset? Is it a weight thing or a 4x4 thing... the unsafe aspect? Or it it a poor quality spacer or design flaw? My friend had spacers on his s10 which I told him not to put them on there. He rolled it a week later because the spacer broke the studs. This was two weeks ago. Sent from my SM-N900V using proboards I get the spacer style that is a plate with holes that pushes your rim out further and you still bolt the rim on the oem lugs is bad juju... from your description this sounds like that was what he was running... I was actually debating on getting billet ones for the sport to use with the oem wheel... just a 1.25 to 1.5. Was not worried till you guys said all that
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Post by redraif on Dec 1, 2015 22:43:01 GMT -5
What I should have said/ment was those plastic rings they put around your hub or centerbore on aftermarket wheels. Lost one on my scion wheels and never noticed it. Adapter as normally thought of is not good. from beyond the pale... Hubcentric rings...
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Post by bdmontero on Dec 1, 2015 22:52:32 GMT -5
The whole idea I would think( would have to do the math) is the spacer is an aluminum separate piece. Aluminum is not strong enough for one. Two it puts TREMENDOUS stress on the studs. Three an offset wheel is all ONE piece not two. Aluminum is really really bad to use for things like this. I had aluminum bj spacers which cracked within just a few years. It just can't handle the pressure. Four there are a number of different types of aluminum that have varying strength characteristics. Each one has its own area of load strength and heat/cold tolerances...etc
Sent from my SM-N900V using proboards
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Post by redraif on Dec 1, 2015 23:00:23 GMT -5
Maybe i got lucky with a quality version coupled with proper care and no heavy weight stressers... plus bird is not a v-8... just a high tq 3.4 v6
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