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Post by dclambertt on Jan 22, 2016 17:56:34 GMT -5
Euro spec always gets the cool features. Good job on the install. Interesting, thought I had missed something!
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Dougazk
Junior Member
‘99 MS XLS 4x4 Auto, 267K miles, owned since new.
Posts: 33
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Post by Dougazk on Jan 22, 2016 18:08:13 GMT -5
Fikse - here what I have foe central locking - four pages in my book. Attachments:
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Dougazk
Junior Member
‘99 MS XLS 4x4 Auto, 267K miles, owned since new.
Posts: 33
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Post by Dougazk on Jan 22, 2016 18:09:49 GMT -5
Second half Attachments:
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Post by fikse on Jan 23, 2016 2:43:20 GMT -5
Fikse - here what I have foe central locking - four pages in my book. Lovely, thanks alot! So, it seems extremely simple built up. The actuator itself seems to be in perfect order, it looks like new, no moisture/corrosion. Well, this should be a easy find. Ill hope
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Post by fikse on Jan 23, 2016 2:50:10 GMT -5
Euro spec always gets the cool features. Good job on the install. Ahh, OK. Didn't think of that one. But your'e correct. Because of winter cars sold here often have some equipment not standard in other areas. Like charging/battery, heated seats/mirrors/windows... I have 95Ah battery in mine, wich I belive is a bit more than usual..
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Post by fikse on Jan 23, 2016 6:39:44 GMT -5
As I can see and my guess is, it is a very simple negative and positive feed to the actuator, that switches place, wether it should lock or unlock. Is this correct, You think? So, a simple 12V filament bulb connected to the actuators plug, should be an easy way to check wether its live or not?
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Post by jkdv8 on Jan 24, 2016 16:00:52 GMT -5
Euro spec always gets the cool features. Good job on the install. Interesting, thought I had missed something! Yea Mitsubishi discriminates against us Americans As I can see and my guess is, it is a very simple negative and positive feed to the actuator, that switches place, wether it should lock or unlock. Is this correct, You think? So, a simple 12V filament bulb connected to the actuators plug, should be an easy way to check wether its live or not? Yea that sounds right. Yea you could use a bulb or a test light. The auto part stores over here carry them for cheap I'm sure yours do to.
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Post by fikse on Jan 25, 2016 16:47:21 GMT -5
That reminds me..... If I open the uppermost drawer in my tool box I might find the testlight I bought some years ago... Thank You Sir for reminding me! Now after Ive done some job to find the solder iron and bulbs and wires and of course could not find the solder tin before I had cleared 2 lockers and then done the job just to find out that the bulb was dead... Beer. What else could help but a beer. :-P
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Post by jkdv8 on Jan 25, 2016 23:29:54 GMT -5
No problem. Aw man, that sucks. Those test lights that detect through the wire insulation are nice to have around to.
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Post by fikse on Feb 6, 2016 16:29:04 GMT -5
Finally I got some time to check what's wrong with my central lock in rear. At first I made a very simple battery-bulb-fuse-thingy, where I in retrospect could have skipped the fuse, since the bulb would have done a proper job as fuse: So. The actuator itself looked clean and good. No moisture/corrosion or other nasty things. Opened the lid, and found it to be just as clean inside: Took off the gears, and the tin lid covering the motor. It was just intermittent I could get throughput trough the motor: Opened the motor:
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Post by fikse on Feb 6, 2016 16:43:21 GMT -5
Continued: At first sight it looked OK: But looking closer, there is a nylon washer mounted on the axle, where it's purpose is to keep the motor's brushes in place: If you zoom into the axle and nylon washer on next picture, you will see the washer is a bit warped and bent downwards, just into the same area of axle as the brushes are supposed to touch. So, here I think I found the sinner.
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Post by fikse on Feb 6, 2016 16:52:08 GMT -5
Continued: A good cleaning was good: I took off the washer, cleaned it, tried to straigten it a bit, and mounted it opposite, to be sure the bent area would not interfere for a while :-) I considered to skip the washer, but I agreed wit myself (...) to let it stay on. Time will show how smart that was... Then some lubricating. Here I use a anti-corrosive oil called ACF-50, an extremely usable oil when working on all electro/electromechanics. It lubricates "everything", and it's just perfect for relays and stuff like this actuator: Then I bent a paper clip to fit the two small holes in the rear black plastic of motor, to let the brushes keep distance of axle and nylon washer: continues...
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Post by fikse on Feb 6, 2016 17:07:27 GMT -5
Continued: Now the motor is running nice: Be very careful to place the motor correct into place. It might be a bit challenging to seat it properly. If not seated properly, the motor will not run as fast and freely as it should, when the tin lid is screwed thight: Then its mounting is pretty straight forward. The plastic lock that is supposed to lock around the strut is a bit fragile, and You might have to adjust this a few times before you get the best working position. I was pretty happy to see my work was a success: central lock is now working perfect, and I saved some bucks :-)
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Post by dirk on Feb 7, 2016 19:45:17 GMT -5
That's great. Wish I didn't have an 8 month old that would be eating parts, or a 3 year old that would want to "help me" when I work on things here. Props to you for the great detailed write up and work.
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Post by fikse on Feb 8, 2016 3:26:19 GMT -5
dirk: Thank you, Ill hope it can help someone in the future. I have the same "small things" crawling around my legs here. Well, now they are 3, 5 and 8, and not crawling anymore but running. It's not easier, just different :-P Seriously; I had an accident with my back some years ago, so I do not go to work so often. I put the kids into kindergarden / school, and then I can get my hours free for curious fingers
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