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Post by Naeos_Valkarian on May 21, 2018 18:24:40 GMT -5
Glad you got it working. Been a little warm out lately to be without A/C. Check the pressures when you can. These are the readings I got today: 5:20PM-cst Ambient Temperature: 90°F+70% Humidity , no aid to condensor (shop fan or water spray) Static: (engine not running for 4 hours) Low: 120psi High: 125psi -------------- Startup: ( when clutch engaged low side dropped to 38psi then went up to 55psi) Low: 55psi High: 220psi -------------- Warmed up: (20mins idle@950rpm with clutch engaged) Low: 46psi High: 220psi Noted mediocre cooling performance, with lack of thermometer I'd say maybe 60° which is something when it's 90+ outside -------------- Warmed up @ 2500RPM: (held steady for about a minute) Low: 25psi High: 280psi Noted that air coming out of vents was chilly again, maybe about 50°F or so. once again hard to tell when it's that hot out, anything cooler than ambient is nice. So with these readings in mind I'm inclined to believe the one way valves on the compressor may be faulty and is causing the higher pressures all around. checked refrigerant levels through the sight glass and it's crystal clear, with no foam or bubbles indicating full charge so I doubt I have an overcharge situation, also that occasional hiss could be pressure relieving when the valve(s) on the compressor opens up fully. please correct me if I'm wrong because I don't want to purchase a compressor unless I have to. xD FSM states the following for normal conditions: With ambient at 95°F: Low side: 18psi~32psi High side: 174psi~217psi Discharge Temps: 45~49°F
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Post by buggzyy on May 30, 2018 19:43:52 GMT -5
@ what humidity does the FSM state? I'd say pressures look ok, is your fan turning on a faulty fan will cause high pressures? No bubbles is not an accurate measurement of a full system. Your compressor should not bleed back this hiss sound may be normal caused by the TXV throttling the refrigerant flow through the evaporator its the restriction in the system. Hope some of this info helps.
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Post by Naeos_Valkarian on May 30, 2018 21:39:37 GMT -5
@ what humidity does the FSM state? I'd say pressures look ok, is your fan turning on a faulty fan will cause high pressures? No bubbles is not an accurate measurement of a full system. Your compressor should not bleed back this hiss sound may be normal caused by the TXV throttling the refrigerant flow through the evaporator its the restriction in the system. Hope some of this info helps. Condensor fan is brand new and is functioning correctly, and the hiss sound only seems to occur when I'm driving either at highway speed (2500+RPM) or when I apply heavy throttle. I do agree it could be the TXV causing the noise, is it possible that it's just a cheap unit causing the noise? Perhaps I should have bought an OEM unit? (Nevermind apparently it's discontinued) The FSM also does not state any humidity information, I looked through the entire HVAC section. Edit: Could the mechanical fan clutch possibly be to blame? Perhaps the fan is not spinning fast enough at idle or something.
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Post by dclambertt on May 31, 2018 18:32:41 GMT -5
That was one of my issues. Once I replaced the clutch fan the AC worked much better. Still never icy cold, but functional.
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Post by Naeos_Valkarian on May 31, 2018 22:12:36 GMT -5
That was one of my issues. Once I replaced the clutch fan the AC worked much better. Still never icy cold, but functional. What condition was your fan clutch in when you replaced it? Was it completely non-functional or was it just not spinning fast enough? Curious to see what the symptoms were so I can see if mine is similar. Mine runs all the time but seems to be most effective right at startup because when I take off you can really hear the fan roaring, but as I drive/engine warms up it dies off and I accelerate it doesn't make any noise. Also the fan can't be turned by hand easily even after it's been sitting all night.
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Post by dclambertt on Jun 4, 2018 18:32:33 GMT -5
Frankly it was hard for me to tell the difference between the old and new fan, but it seemed to make a difference when it was replaced. Allegedly you might be able to stop a badly worn fan rotation (carefully!) with a rolled up newspaper, etc. but I never tried that. Don't like putting things in front of moving engine parts!
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Post by jkdv8 on Jun 15, 2018 23:09:12 GMT -5
Do you have the recirculate function on.
Get you a thermometer of some sort for an accurate reading.
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Post by Naeos_Valkarian on Jun 26, 2018 18:48:09 GMT -5
Do you have the recirculate function on. Get you a thermometer of some sort for an accurate reading. Doesn't quite matter anymore, I was out driving the other evening and the ac just quit on me and shortly after the blower stopped working on anything other than max. The compressor is not kicking on anymore either. I've already checked and eliminated all fuses/relays as a possibility. Tried replacing the blower motor resistor but that wasn't the issue. I now believe the whole HVAC control panel has gone out. Or more specifically the dial that controls the fan speed as I can turn the dial to max and then push up on the knob and it shuts off.
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Post by tm on Jun 27, 2018 16:10:50 GMT -5
Sounds like that dial needs some electronic circuits cleaner spray.
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Post by Naeos_Valkarian on Jun 29, 2018 8:05:42 GMT -5
Sounds like that dial needs some electronic circuits cleaner spray. The plastic connector was melted through in a few spots, replaced the whole panel with a junk yard unit and the blower is working again. Now the compressor still will not kick on. I've tried both the A/C button and putting it in Defrost. Edit: Best guess is the fan control knob shorted out.
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Post by Naeos_Valkarian on Jun 30, 2018 20:21:10 GMT -5
Alright guys I need some help, as I don't have access to my FSMs for awhile I can't look up certain things.
When my blower switch shorted out it took my cruise control and the ac functions. Neither the defrost setting or the ac button kicks on the compressor or fan. The blower works fine now and all the relays and fuses appear ok.
What I need to know is what the cruise control and ac have in common if anything at all and where the cruise control and ac modules are located. Im pretty sure both have fried but I won't know for sure till I can inspect them.
Also can somebody walk me through how to jumper the compressor and fan so I can test them?
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Post by Naeos_Valkarian on Jul 8, 2018 14:58:43 GMT -5
Confirmed there is continuity through the dual pressure switch and both the compressor clutch and fan are engaging when I jumper them.
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Post by jkdv8 on Jul 9, 2018 16:09:07 GMT -5
Cruise control malfunction could just be a coincidence. This time of year with the heat the vacuum hose on mine that goes from the controller to the throttle body comes undone due to dry rot. I just snip off the end and reattach.
If you hold down (Coast/Set) while switching the ignition to ON then, immediately push the switch in the up (ACC/Resume) position it'll give the code for the related malfunction. I believe this is done with the jumper on the obd connector. I haven't tried it myself yet.
As for the a/c I'd have to look at the schematics. Does the light on the button come on or flash.
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Post by Naeos_Valkarian on Jul 11, 2018 19:11:26 GMT -5
Cruise control malfunction could just be a coincidence. This time of year with the heat the vacuum hose on mine that goes from the controller to the throttle body comes undone due to dry rot. I just snip off the end and reattach. If you hold down (Coast/Set) while switching the ignition to ON then, immediately push the switch in the up (ACC/Resume) position it'll give the code for the related malfunction. I believe this is done with the jumper on the obd connector. I haven't tried it myself yet. As for the a/c I'd have to look at the schematics. Does the light on the button come on or flash. No lights on the whole panel are on anymore. I took the switch apart and it looks fine just no bulbs in there because the old bulbs melted their housings which then fell apart. I don't know if I mentioned it or not but my remote start won't work anymore either. It quit working at the same time as well. I see three things as a possibilty here: 1: that wierd relay I mentioned earlier may send power to the portion of the ecm that controls these functions (assuming inside the plastic ecm housing there are seperate modules) I have this relay ordered but it wont be here till the middle of next week. 2: part of the wire harness has been damaged by the short. 3: part of the ecm itself is fried that controls these components. Edit: ok I guess I didn't mention the relay earlier. There is a weird relay in the compartment under the hood, it is symbolized by an eyeball looking at an open book. When I opened up the relay some black powder fell out and the bit of the relay that is supposed to close the circuit is missing, presumably disintegrated.
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Post by Naeos_Valkarian on Jul 15, 2018 14:50:50 GMT -5
One thing worth noting is that I attempted to jumper that odd relay seeing as it's only a 2-prong relay and it did absolutely nothing.
Edit: Started pressin buttons and discovered my rear defrost doesnt work anymore either
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