Post by ES_97Sport on May 18, 2015 16:08:19 GMT -5
Hi Edward- thanks for the reply!
My bad I haven't had to replace the ball joint 4 times. It's the alternator I am replacing every year. I have an oil leak and everything I've was says that will short out the alt but my bf said the oil is more on the starter.
AH! Yep, that sounds more like it. I take care of oil leaks ASAP. The dripping on the alternator/starter is a huge issue. Electronics really don't like that.
I just wasn't sure if getting all that fixed was just the start of something bad I too think like you it's cheaper for a few thousand vs a 40k car making car payments.
My '03 has about 150K. My little (unmodified) '97 is getting to 200K. My friends '98 is getting close to 200K now, too. None are even close to being 'worn out' to the point that doing maintenance is more than replacing with with a new car. Unlike a few of the Montero, Eclipse, EVO, Lancer Mitsu models, the Sport is a REALLY basic design. Which is what makes if such a good off road choice - real basic and real tough.
If your Sport hasn't been abused and you take care of the regular maintenance you should be good up to about 250-300K. Also assuming you take care of any random leaks that show up timely. Wear parts like the CATs, O2 and other sensors, ball joints, tie-rod ends, idler arm are just parts that wear out - there's nothing specific to the Sport, they wear out on all vehicles. The major things like engine, body, suspension and drive train are rock solid and will outlast your ownership if you just do the regular maintenance like changing gear oil, greasing joints, etc. The big problem - with ALL vehicles - is people don't do the regular maintenance when they're supposed to. I've seen ball joints that have NEVER been greased, antifreeze, brake systems, and gear oil that's never been flushed or changed and people can't understand why things go south. Sorry to harp, but regular maintenance has to be done or no vehicle will last.
I don't have the codes as this was 5 years ago I was told by the dealer what the diagnostics was saying. I have the infamous check engine light on, 4wd light on and antilock light on. The dealer said issues were
EGR
O2 sensors
Solenoid switch/valve
I did not know O2 sensors were normal wear items like tires so that makes me feel better.
EGR
O2 sensors
Solenoid switch/valve
I did not know O2 sensors were normal wear items like tires so that makes me feel better.
EGR wouldn't surprise me. Either the valve or the solenoid. Probably the valve. They have exhaust gas running through them so eventually they have a tendency to clog up. Things are a PITA and not Mitsu specific. They do the same thing on my '68 'Bird - 'cept its worse.
EGR valve and all the associated EGR and Evap solenoids are dirt easy to change. 30 minutes and you could change all of them out.
Recommended change time for O2 sensors is usually between 80-160/180K. Depends on the manufacturer of the sensor. Mitsu's OEM sensors are expensive but like their CATs - you get what you pay for. Both CAT and O2 sensor performance degrades over time. How long they last depends on the quality of the fuel and the mechanical state of the engine itself (as much as the quality of the sensor or CAT). An engine that's burning oil will destroy both in pretty short order. ALL engines have some leakage of oil into the exhaust stream - O2 sensors and CATs with very tight engines will last much longer than a vehicle that's puffing blue smoke. Which is why you always want to get something like leaking valve stem seals fixed ASAP.
The dealership recommended when I purchased my big Sport that I run BG 44K through the fuel system once a year and I strongly recommended that still. Helps keep the fuel system clean and trouble free.
My 4wd is just stuck you can't move the gear shift. You did tell me via this forum about the plastic ball that may be broken that's what I called the ball joint (my own terminology as I could remember what it's called). But this won't affect passing the emmissions just would like to take her off-road again
Depends. CO just changed their emissions test. ANY CEL is an automatic fail. So it doesn't matter if the light is on for ABS or because your dome light is out - they automatically fail the vehicle.
Yep, if you can't shift the transfer case, then its almost certainly the ball on the shifter. A new shifter assembly is about $200 if I remember correctly. Easy to replace, at least.
I just moved and to a state that performs emissions. It's a cracked manifold sure. It's loud and the sound sort of goes away once she warms up. So if you have had Sports that have 600k mi then I'm all for fixin her as I really do love Mitzy!!
Ouch. Yep, get one from the salvage yard. I trust them more than the cheap Chinese knock-offs.
My 'big' Sport is a '97 LS 3.0L. Haven't done the math but its within spitting distance of 600K. Still doesn't squeak or rattle and its had a very hard life. I replaced the original engine at around 500K. The original finally lost all compression in a cylinder - still ran like a top and passed CO emissions, though. The Mitsu dealership transplanted a '02 3.5L engine into it three years ago and I finally went though the last two years and replaced all the under-hood sensors. I've worn out the steering box, shaft and column, a A/C compressor, two brake master cylinders and one booster - all of these after 400K. Oh, and the stereo head. I split the CAT open a few years ago - you can only beat those on rocks for so long.
There are Montero guys that had 800K on their's 7-8 years ago so I'm not unique there. The '80-90s Monteros and the Sports - especially the first gen '97-99 were not designed for the US. They were designed for use in the middle east, AU, etc. where conditions are significantly worse than the US. So, they're built a lot tougher than vehicles actually designed to be sold in the US.
I will wait for the repair shop to do their diagnostic then deep dive her to tell me what they think and price and will call junkyards for manifolds.
My other question out of curiosity is why do repair shops use refurb parts and not OEM
Thanks again for the info
Laura
My other question out of curiosity is why do repair shops use refurb parts and not OEM
Thanks again for the info
Laura
Mitsu OEM parts are expensive and people are cheap. Most people don't care how long stuff lasts, only how much it costs. Which is kinda silly. You can do the job three times and pay three times or pay a little more and do it once. I've had this argument for years with shops. Sometimes you can get them to use OEM Mitsu parts, but not very often. I have an almost impossible time getting shops to use Napa parts vs Carquest even if I tell them I will gladly pay the extra cash. Getting them to use OEM is totally out of the question unless I supply the parts - which I do.
Also, its inconvenient for the shops. Carquest, Napa, etc. stock more parts than a dealership does - especially for older vehicles. Usually if the non-OEM place doesn't have it, its quicker for them to get whatever it is from wharehouses. Its not unusual for me to have to wait for a week or weeks (or a couple months) to get an OEM part from Mitsu for some of the more unusual stuff that's rarely replaced. Not practical for a shop that's doing repair work.
Edward