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Post by colted on May 23, 2015 23:52:27 GMT -5
Bought the exact solenoid from NAPA......thanks so much for the guide, morphout!......the 2 bottom bolts on the bracket are PITA to take out and put back, left one hole unscrewed.....I'll make an update if the dreaded P0401/P0403 codes reappear.
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Post by jkdv8 on May 24, 2015 15:23:26 GMT -5
Hopefully yours last longer than mine did. Ended up replacing it a year later. It wasn't closing the valve all the way and didn't throw a code. Went with an OEM one.
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Post by colted on May 24, 2015 23:32:00 GMT -5
Hopefully yours last longer than mine did. Ended up replacing it a year later. It wasn't closing the valve all the way and didn't throw a code. Went with an OEM one. arrgh....makes me think of returning the NAPA one......just saw an OEM on ebay for just $8 more....
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Post by dclambertt on May 26, 2015 18:11:47 GMT -5
You got the NAPA solenoid to fit your connector? I could not get mine to fit and had to return it.
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Post by colted on May 26, 2015 20:52:55 GMT -5
You got the NAPA solenoid to fit your connector? I could not get mine to fit and had to return it. yup, it perfectly fit my 02 XLS.....awesome response after the swap.....gas pedal and engine responds better now thus I feel tighter acceleration......I just cleaned the IAC since the part from ebay just arrived today.....but the usual hesitation/engine vibration/near like stalling (at full load-AC, headlights and foot on the brakes) that I was having before was gone and RPM stays between 7-8K....no P0401 SES yet...crossing my fingers those gremlins don't come back, will hold off installing the new IAC.
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Post by dclambertt on May 27, 2015 10:08:48 GMT -5
Interesting. I also tried cleaning my old IAC when it acted up and had no improvement. After replacing both the IAC and EGR solenoid it runs like a champ.
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Post by colted on May 28, 2015 0:49:20 GMT -5
Interesting. I also tried cleaning my old IAC when it acted up and had no improvement. After replacing both the IAC and EGR solenoid it runs like a champ. bad.....SES light came back again tonight....RPM sits at 800 till......will pull up codes tom and replace IAC as well....keep you all posted. XS.....any one knows if a bad gas cap throws P0401 code?
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Post by dclambertt on May 28, 2015 15:50:18 GMT -5
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Post by colted on May 28, 2015 16:32:38 GMT -5
Thanks DC!....how do you know if you have a bad EGR valve......EGR solenoid was replaced last week, replaced IAC today....cleaned all the hoses and cleaned the EGR valve as well....will do the Idle relearn later.
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Post by dclambertt on May 28, 2015 19:27:56 GMT -5
I think you can tell if the valve is bad by pinching one of the vacuum tubes running to it while the engine is idling.. it will kill the engine.
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Post by colted on May 28, 2015 20:16:53 GMT -5
Update:
Ran the truck tonight....idle sits at 7K RPM....when I turn on my headlights with AC on, foot on brakes whilst on a stop...RPM drops and almost want to die....I would see my voltage mete drop from 13.8V to 11.7V and the engine shakes......alt was replaced more than 2 years ago...same battery It had when I bought the truck about 4 years ago.
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Post by dclambertt on May 29, 2015 11:43:48 GMT -5
Sounds like time for a new alt! Just replaced mine which was only 3 yrs old, Chinese, and NO oil intrusion. Huge difference.
So I've replaced the EGR solenoid, IAC, alternator, starter, battery and exhaust manifold, all within the past year. Also did plugs & wires recently, and it's running better than it ever has.
Anyway, from an old Buggzyy post regarding EGR valves:
Make sure the 2 hoses that connect to the throttle body are on the correct port. You should be able to pinch the yellow hose and the EGR should apply fully and stall the engine. Most common failure or problems are the vac. lines installed backward or the solenoid is faulty.
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Post by colted on May 30, 2015 12:19:27 GMT -5
Sounds like time for a new alt! Just replaced mine which was only 3 yrs old, Chinese, and NO oil intrusion. Huge difference. So I've replaced the EGR solenoid, IAC, alternator, starter, battery and exhaust manifold, all within the past year. Also did plugs & wires recently, and it's running better than it ever has. Anyway, from an old Buggzyy post regarding EGR valves: Make sure the 2 hoses that connect to the throttle body are on the correct port. You should be able to pinch the yellow hose and the EGR should apply fully and stall the engine. Most common failure or problems are the vac. lines installed backward or the solenoid is faulty. Tried the pinch technique....truck hesitates but doesn't die fully. One more thing I forgot to add on my ordeal....I was only observing the shuddering and voltage drops when all accessories are on including AC & headlights and AT is in DRIVE.....If I shift it back to N or P, voltage goes back to 13.9V and shuddering disappears.
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Post by jkdv8 on May 30, 2015 12:25:45 GMT -5
Hopefully yours last longer than mine did. Ended up replacing it a year later. It wasn't closing the valve all the way and didn't throw a code. Went with an OEM one. arrgh....makes me think of returning the NAPA one......just saw an OEM on ebay for just $8 more.... Highly recommended. Got one from the dealer for $20 more but it was worth it.
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Post by jkdv8 on May 30, 2015 12:26:40 GMT -5
Sounds like time for a new alt! Just replaced mine which was only 3 yrs old, Chinese, and NO oil intrusion. Huge difference. So I've replaced the EGR solenoid, IAC, alternator, starter, battery and exhaust manifold, all within the past year. Also did plugs & wires recently, and it's running better than it ever has. Anyway, from an old Buggzyy post regarding EGR valves: Make sure the 2 hoses that connect to the throttle body are on the correct port. You should be able to pinch the yellow hose and the EGR should apply fully and stall the engine. Most common failure or problems are the vac. lines installed backward or the solenoid is faulty. Tried the pinch technique....truck hesitates but doesn't die fully. One more thing I forgot to add on my ordeal....I was only observing the shuddering and voltage drops when all accessories are on including AC & headlights and AT is in DRIVE.....If I shift it back to N or P, voltage goes back to 13.9V and shuddering disappears. Could be iac although the alt should maintain voltage unless the rpms drop to like 250-400.
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