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Post by mudrunner on Sept 28, 2013 10:26:06 GMT -5
So I post on www.expeditionportal.com and this came up in a post and I was wondering if any of the Sport owners here who wheel hard have had these problems??? "The framework on the Montero is overbuilt and a bit heavier than the Sport. Not that the Sport is bad by any means but to give you an idea, Sports that get wheeled hard break body mounts and develop cracks near the suspension stress points. This is unheard of in the Montero world." |
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Post by 2002sport on Oct 26, 2013 20:48:32 GMT -5
I have not had any issues so far.
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Post by ES_97Sport on Oct 31, 2013 14:35:38 GMT -5
So I post on www.expeditionportal.com and this came up in a post and I was wondering if any of the Sport owners here who wheel hard have had these problems??? "The framework on the Montero is overbuilt and a bit heavier than the Sport. Not that the Sport is bad by any means but to give you an idea, Sports that get wheeled hard break body mounts and develop cracks near the suspension stress points. This is unheard of in the Montero world." Its also unheard of in the Montero Sport world. I'd like to know where 'they' are getting the information on 'problems'. I strongly suspect it's misinterpreted or taken out of context posts made by myself and the bare handful of people that really 'wheel Sports. The fact that the comment above SPECIFICALLY points out the ONLY TWO problems that I've ever documented on the forums leads me to believe that 'their' information is coming from my posts on the forums or on my web site. Both the Montero and Montero Sport use a fully boxed and reinforced frame. Assembly methods are identical as they both come from the same manufacturing plants that use the same techniques and technology on both vehicles. I've broken three or four body mounts off the frame - many, many years ago. Mitsu uses(ed) a laser welder that produces a very deep but very fine weld to attach the body mounts. The chassis is very flexy, but the body is not so you get a lot of stress between the body and frame centered on the mounts. Once I installed the All-Pro weld-on rock skids, that problem disappeared. It evened up the flex between the frame and the body. I might point out that this is a problem that gets worse the longer the wheel base is and has nothing to do with Monteros, Montero Sports or even Mitsubishis. This is a rarity on Jeeps but happens all the time on pick-ups. Leverage (force) increases with the length of the lever. I've broken both frame rails right behind the front wheels on my SAS'd Sport. The reason this could even be a possibility is because of the solid axle swap in the front. The entire IFS sub-frame assembly is torched off and replaced with a solid axle, so all the support, reinforcement and stiffening is gone. Yes, the rails are undersized (for our purposes) at that point, but Mitsu didn't build their vehicles with the consideration in mind that some crazy would be torching off 80% of the front end to stick a Dana 44 under it. I've never had a problem on my other Sports nor heard of anyone EVER having a problem with the chassis with the stock IFS still in place. In fact, as far as I know I'm the only one that's ever broken a frame rail since everyone else has learned from my mistake years ago and now reinforces the frame rails when they do a SAS. The one thing that I absolutely CAN NOT in any way fault is the Sport's body and frame. After almost 550,000 miles of hard driving and wheeling on my '97, it still is rock solid. No squeaks, rattles, cracks, rusted out pieces - nothing. I'm particularly impressed with the frame. My '97 in DD mode weighs in at 5500-5600 lbs. and is getting into the mid 7000 lbs. when we go out to Moab. Hard 'wheeling 7000+ lbs. several times a year, year after year is a lot to ask of a new vehicle let alone one with half a million miles on it. Edward www.4x4extremesports.com |
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Post by mudrunner on Nov 6, 2013 16:21:41 GMT -5
Thank you for your input, I figured he was speaking from reading forums. Also he mentioned this to be the case since the Sport is a L200 (the truck) frame it was not as strong. I had a feeling there were gross oversights in the posters statement.
I figured Mitsubishi would not short change the Sport in any way.
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Post by ES_97Sport on Nov 11, 2013 16:46:49 GMT -5
Thank you for your input, I figured he was speaking from reading forums. Also he mentioned this to be the case since the Sport is a L200 (the truck) frame it was not as strong. I had a feeling there were gross oversights in the posters statement. I figured Mitsubishi would not short change the Sport in any way. Well, I'm a little impressed that the poster knew the Sport was based on the Mitsu pick-up - here its the Mighty Max and Dodge Ram 50 (second gen pick-up). That's not commonly known. That's funny, though. When I very first started working on Sports the begging of '98 almost all my information and parts were coming from an old timer in SoCal that Baja raced the Mitsu pick-ups. I remember he and I talking about the frames, axles, engines, etc. and how the different models compared and what might have problems or need to be beefed up and so on. There was never any mention of strength or durability issues with the frame or the axles on the pick-ups. The 5-speed at the time was a little sketchy. Mitsu used the 5-speed car transmission in the pick-up and Montero and eventually installed the 5-speed truck transmission as well as using it in the '97-'99 Sports. No one but me have I ever heard of having to rebuild or replace a t-case. Those are way over built. And even the old '97-'99 axles are as strong a a Ford 9 inch. Again, it's a rare thing to hear anyone have problems there. Lloyd on 4-4wire is the only one that I know that ever had issues and that's because he was doing some crazy insane stuff with his.  I think the Sport is the last vehicle anyone has to worry about structurally if its being 'wheeled. Every time I talk to the Jeep/Ford and Toy shops here in CO about switching to a different make vehicle to use as my DD and 'wheeling vehicle, they always tell me to stick with what I have 'cause nothing else is going to hold together as well and last as long. I'd love to see the Jeep, Ford, Chevy, Dodge, Land Rover, Toyota, etc. that you could put 500,000+ miles on with only one engine change and still have it get 17.5+ Mpg with 35"s, do 75-85 Mph on the highway all the way to Moab and back and 500+ miles a week of DDing - the same as it did 10-15 years ago without it costing $30,000 to rebuild it every year. Edward |
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Post by r0llinlacs on Jul 2, 2015 17:17:16 GMT -5
"develop cracks near the suspension stress points."
When I got mine, I had to replace the U-bolt plate that the rear shock mounts to. The stud broke clean off, I'm almost 100% sure it wasn't offroaded so that statement may have some credibility.
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Post by jkdv8 on Jul 2, 2015 20:22:49 GMT -5
For the exception of the wrangler I have heard of this and even worse issues with the jeeps and many other unibody based 4x4s.
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Post by bdmontero on Jul 3, 2015 0:56:15 GMT -5
To piggy back off of Edwards post. I LOVE my sport. It is the most dependable fun vehicle I've ever owned. I literally just drove through flooded roads tonight to help some people home and I had zero issues!!!!;D
Sent from my SM-N900V using proboards
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Post by ES_97Sport on Jul 3, 2015 16:10:20 GMT -5
"develop cracks near the suspension stress points." When I got mine, I had to replace the U-bolt plate that the rear shock mounts to. The stud broke clean off, I'm almost 100% sure it wasn't offroaded so that statement may have some credibility. Typical causes: 1. Too long of a shock. Shock bottoms out before the frame and bump-stop contact. 2. Too 'stiff' of a shock and driving very aggressively or abusively. 3. Hitting a big pot hole, speed bump, curb at speed. Shock can't compress so all the force is applied to the mounts. Also includes jumping. 4. Binding. Common cause - polyurethane bushings used in the shock eyes. Removal of the sway bar allows for a lot more articulation which can cause or aggravate this problem. AND ... 5. All of the above. Edward |
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Post by r0llinlacs on Jul 15, 2015 21:18:22 GMT -5
"develop cracks near the suspension stress points." When I got mine, I had to replace the U-bolt plate that the rear shock mounts to. The stud broke clean off, I'm almost 100% sure it wasn't offroaded so that statement may have some credibility. Typical causes: 1. Too long of a shock. Shock bottoms out before the frame and bump-stop contact. 2. Too 'stiff' of a shock and driving very aggressively or abusively. 3. Hitting a big pot hole, speed bump, curb at speed. Shock can't compress so all the force is applied to the mounts. Also includes jumping. 4. Binding. Common cause - polyurethane bushings used in the shock eyes. Removal of the sway bar allows for a lot more articulation which can cause or aggravate this problem. AND ... 5. All of the above. Edward I'm pretty sure it was the factory shock. When I removed the shock, it was stuck outwards and stiff as a rock. I've had shocks seize up on me before and it wouldn't surprise me if that was the culprit. The lady said she drove it like that forever, shock dragging on the ground and all, I had to LOL. |
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Post by ES_97Sport on Jul 16, 2015 16:58:55 GMT -5
... I'm pretty sure it was the factory shock. When I removed the shock, it was stuck outwards and stiff as a rock. I've had shocks seize up on me before and it wouldn't surprise me if that was the culprit. The lady said she drove it like that forever, shock dragging on the ground and all, I had to LOL. OMG! That is just flip'n scary. Not surprising but scary. :rolleyes: Yep, seen shocks seize up and break the eye off the shock or punch through the shock tower. Nasty business.  Edward |
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