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Post by palmsprings on May 1, 2016 13:27:07 GMT -5
i will attempt to post pics,but may not be sucessful,so ill detail as much as I can JIC. It looks like I can only have my pics on a "url" Im only used to uploading from a file or desktop of pictures i take,so the url thing Im unfamiliar with. How can i upload from my PC? I'll ck FAQ JIC
Those of you that are familiar with ATs know what Im talkin even without pics I would guess.
I noticed small drops forming on the pan and bolts are on the side the dip stick is on (passenger side). It wraps around the leading and trailing ends of the pan too. The entire drivers side has no oil residue on the bolts
When I look from beneath the AT,I can see that following the ATF fill tube from its insertion point in the pan,and up about 6 inches it joins the upper dipstick tube that goes on upward where we ppull the dip stick out. The seep seems to be leaking where the upper & lower tubes join together. How does it normally prevent AT fluid from seeping out ? is there supposed to be a visible seal from the outside? Or is it machined where the two pieces fit so well together no leak occurs? or is there an internal seal of some kind where the two dip stick tubes fit together firmly enough to not seep?
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Post by jkdv8 on May 1, 2016 15:03:40 GMT -5
There is an O-ring in between the two pieces.
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Post by palmsprings on May 1, 2016 22:42:44 GMT -5
There is an O-ring in between the two pieces. With the engine in the MT,have you or anyone ever replaced the o ring or removed the tube to the AT? The upper tube is bolted with two brackets. The top bracket may be accessed from the top without removing too much to get to it,but the lower bracket has to be reached from the bottom but must undo the front axle driveshaft. The other possible way is to remove the AT pan and the lower half of the tube comes with it. Can the o ring be placed on the end of the tube with the pan dropped ,then put the pan back on and at same time mate the two tubes w/o ring ? Any ideas or is your guess as good as mine? |
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Post by pinstryper on May 2, 2016 10:49:28 GMT -5
Unhook it from the head or the block wiggle/twist it and pull you'll find the O-ring pulled a bunch of those for these guys
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Post by palmsprings on May 2, 2016 11:56:17 GMT -5
Ok, remove the top section of the tube . That top section's bottom bracket can be reached from the top too? Wow,Ok since youve done it,
Ill try and access from the top. It might take some ,what I call "magic" tools for that tight area.
Ive got the ratchets (non swivel head) ,std & metric sockets,extensions,open & boxend wrenches ,but thats generally about it that would apply to this task. Its all Ive needed on my 60s 70s vehicles.
Everything was pretty easy to get to,unlike the MSport and others.
If you know what specifics tools I will likley need for this job please let me know.
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Post by ES_97Sport on May 2, 2016 13:20:33 GMT -5
There is an O-ring in between the two pieces. And they are still availble from the dealership for a couple bucks. I just got new ones for both the '97-98 and the '99-04 about two months ago. Edward |
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Post by palmsprings on May 2, 2016 18:33:58 GMT -5
Ok thx.What is it with orings? I wonder if they leak because the get moved cause someone has bumped it or removed it to get at something else? Or do they just beak with age ?
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Post by palmsprings on May 2, 2016 18:45:39 GMT -5
Ok, remove the top section of the tube . That top section's bottom bracket can be reached from the top too? Wow,Ok since youve done it, Ill try and access from the top. It might take some ,what I call "magic" tools for that tight area. Ive got the ratchets (non swivel head) ,std & metric sockets,extensions,open & boxend wrenches ,but thats generally about it that would apply to this task. Its all Ive needed on my 60s 70s vehicles. Everything was pretty easy to get to,unlike the MSport and others. If you know what specifics tools I will likley need for this job please let me know. ANSWERED THIS ONE MYSELF i just went back and had another look at how to remove the AT dip stick tube'slower bracket. All of a sudden I realized all I have to do is remove the "mud" shield that protects the engine from projectiles the tire will throw its way. Unclip>remove the guard/shield,and looks like a str8 shot to the bolt. Thats why it takes me so long to complete projects Im not familiar with. It looks like procrastinating to my wife,but its for a good reason; It prevents me from making mistakes cause i think about it for a few days,in addition to using this forum. |
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Post by jkdv8 on May 2, 2016 20:13:23 GMT -5
Yea I didn't think they were hard to get to. Universal joint for your socket wrench would come in handy
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Post by ES_97Sport on May 3, 2016 17:48:51 GMT -5
Ok thx.What is it with orings? I wonder if they leak because the get moved cause someone has bumped it or removed it to get at something else? Or do they just beak with age ? My '03 looks like its easy to get to but on my Gen 1's it looks like you have to tear half the side of the car apart.  Those are subject to a LOT of heat. Usually they're good from the factory right up to the point someone touches it and then it starts leaking.  I was reading the same complaints from the Jeep crowd a few months ago. I haven't seen one just start leaking on its own but I don't deal with A/Ts on a regular basis. Edward |
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I was reading the same complaints from the Jeep crowd a few months ago. I haven't seen one just start leaking on its own but I don't deal with A/Ts on a regular basis.