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Post by holmanski on May 21, 2016 10:29:42 GMT -5
I have a 99 MS XLS and i found a (working)rear locking diff that the guy said would fit in my rear. It's the same spline count, ( i checked to make sure the axles would fit before I installed it)
I put it in and the right side axle goes in fine and bolts up, but the left side gets to just about 1/2 inch from seating and stops. I measured the distance inside the axle housing and the axle length and their both 25". The right side wont fit on the left either.
For the life of me I can not figure out what stopping it from going all the way in
any ideas???
Greg
Glendale, Az
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Post by kushmcdieselson on May 22, 2016 17:09:07 GMT -5
I want to say it's because the axle setup on the MS has one side longer than the other, maybe the one you are installing came from a vehicle that has equal lengths on both sides? Just a vague recollection I have from reading another thread somewhere about this, will have to wait for one of the more knowledgeable posters to chime in though.
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Post by dirk on May 22, 2016 19:18:19 GMT -5
I did reading on this before. The stock MS with out the lockers uses 2 equal.length shafts, but the stock locker uses 2 slightly different length shafts. I do not know measurements. But there is a difference. Also know if it came off a pre2000 it used the leaf springs, and from what I could tell the rear differentials for post2000 with the coil springs didn't have a true locker with a switch and air pump, but instead had just a limited slip.
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Post by ES_97Sport on May 23, 2016 15:21:04 GMT -5
... Also know if it came off a pre2000 it used the leaf springs, ... Correct. Gen 1 (97-99) had leaf springs. Gen 2 (00-04) had coils. Also correct. The (real) locking differential was only available in the Gen 1 Sports. Edward
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Post by holmanski on May 27, 2016 9:01:00 GMT -5
Yes, that is what I figured from reading other posts as well. Going to cut it this weekend. I have a spare so Im not too worried about screwing it up.
I got an air pump out of a 99 Pajero on the way and then I'll be in business.
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Post by ES_97Sport on May 27, 2016 11:35:26 GMT -5
Yes, that is what I figured from reading other posts as well. Going to cut it this weekend. I have a spare so Im not too worried about screwing it up. I got an air pump out of a 99 Pajero on the way and then I'll be in business. I presume you mean you're going to trim the 'extra' off the axle shaft. Make sure when you do that you check the spline engagement. I haven't looked at a Sport axle shaft in a LONG time so I don't now what the end looks like, but you need to make sure after you cut it that the shaft doesn't bottom out on the splines and that you still have enough spline length left for proper engagement. Edward
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Post by pinstryper on May 27, 2016 14:42:38 GMT -5
it came from a full size montero, way back when I got on this board I explored this. those are where I got the bigger tbars and hd coils for my next MS (00-01)
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Post by pinstryper on May 27, 2016 14:48:19 GMT -5
And have fun cutting the axle... When we did the race cars we cut them at the flange not the spline end then rewelded flange not hard to do, but not cheap unless the right people know you.
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Post by ES_97Sport on May 27, 2016 17:37:12 GMT -5
And have fun cutting the axle... When we did the race cars we cut them at the flange not the spline end then rewelded flange not hard to do, but not cheap unless the right people know you. No one here would even consider doing that. Even with an inside/outside weld, that's not going to be as strong as a one piece unit. I've seen CM axle shafts the diameter of your wrist twisted in half - TWISTED, not broken. There are a bunch of shops that can re-spline axles here using different techniques so its not a big deal to lengthen the splines or just re-cut new ones. My friend with the machine shop used to use a mill with a simple custom fixture to cut the splines. I can't remember what he used to cut the shafts with. I know he used a band-saw to cut the housings to length. I THINK he used to cut the shafts to length on the lathe. Yea, you wouldn't be doing it with a hacksaw. Mitsu axles are not CM. As far as I know, they're just case hardened like the output shafts of the t-case. Once you get through the case hardening, it shouldn't be that difficult. But, again, won't be using a hacksaw. Maybe a cut-off saw, but you'd have to be REAL careful to only do a tiny bit at a time and let it cool down. Definitely be a PITA. Edward
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