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Post by bdmontero on Jul 29, 2016 22:41:20 GMT -5
What's everyones thoughts on this? I think it looks pretty good.  |
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Post by loner6996 on Jul 30, 2016 0:44:04 GMT -5
Pretty sharp.
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Post by Naeos_Valkarian on Jul 30, 2016 1:08:38 GMT -5
I like it very much, I want one. Is that your sport?
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Post by loner6996 on Jul 30, 2016 1:15:55 GMT -5
That spoiler is nice too. I gotta get off my *** and install the one I found in the junkyard.
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Post by bdmontero on Jul 30, 2016 8:49:41 GMT -5
No I am going to have one made for mine soon and like this one. This one looks to be well made.
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Post by pinstryper on Jul 30, 2016 10:52:55 GMT -5
Bumpers are badass
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Post by jkdv8 on Jul 30, 2016 11:12:46 GMT -5
Looks pretty slick. Seen others like this with two Jerry cans on one side and the tire on the other. Don't recall seeing one for a sport though.
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Post by bdmontero on Jul 30, 2016 14:09:29 GMT -5
I think its the best one I've seen so far. Most likely do this before the SAS. Plus a list of mechanical preventative maintenance on the engine/tranny. Like Ed says. There's no point in doing an SAS if the vehicle doesn't run.
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Post by jkdv8 on Jul 31, 2016 20:17:19 GMT -5
Yea having it run and run well would be high on the list. Make a list of priorities from most important to least important.
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Post by ES_97Sport on Aug 1, 2016 14:17:43 GMT -5
What's everyones thoughts on this? I think it looks pretty good. .... That looks like the set from Eastern Europe that we were looking at earlier this spring. The front fender bars look to be custom. That is a really bad idea.  Like 'brush guards' off road, anything that hits that bar is going to cause more damage than its going to prevent. Otherwise, same style I'm going to have built for the back of the '99. Except I'm going to drop the spare tire a bit. That is WAY too high. BD, just for reference, if this is on a SAS vehicle, you'll already have a flaming ton of ground clearance in the back. If that's not enough, there's nothing else you can do about it as we just have a sucky departure angle no matter what. Given that, you want to drop the spare down as low as the OEM carrier. You will very rarely drag the outside edge of the tire - and I mean VERY rarely - but you will keep the weight low. I point this out because the 'Stupid Idea of the Year' seems to be to mount the spare as high as it can possibly go even though the vehicle is completely incapable of utilizing the clearance. Like ours, for example. On the off chance you end up on a trail like Fins 'n Things - which is NOT an extreme trail, BTW - where you're steeply nose down, you do NOT want the weight in the back high off the ground. This can cause the back to come off the ground and do an end-over, landing on your roof at the bottom. For the most part this is only an issue going down hill, but it CAN affect up hill climbs as well if there's enough weight aft of the rear axle. A really high 100 lb spare and really high clearance makes this a very high priority issue to address. Using that bumper as an example, I'd drop the tire down to just about 2" above the bottom of the bumper, and move it to the center of the hatch. Leave enough clearance between the bottom of the tire and the Reese Hitch if you want one. Definitely get that closer to center, though. That setup would make for awfully lopsided weight distribution. And, KIM, that everything above gets worse if you're running coils.  Yep, do the bumpers, body lift, electric fans, whatever before you do the SAS. I would leave the winch hookup 'till after, though. ABS delete can happen before, but some lines will have to be re-done and the BMC swapped and then swapped again when you get the new brake setup. The + plus side of doing that before, is you can get it all right and functional BEFORE adding in the new brakes so all you have to troubleshoot is the new BMC and brakes setups on the axles. On the - side, it'll be a lot easier doing the brakes with no under carriage.  BTW, if you do (or have, I can't remember) the 2" body lift, look at lifting the engine and transmission 1-2" during the SAS. There are a couple positives for doing this. The two most obvious reasons are possible increase in upward travel and eliminating any need to modify the oil pan to clear links. Edward |
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Post by bdmontero on Aug 1, 2016 14:44:09 GMT -5
Im not sure if its the same one or not. Ya the tire is too high but I got to figure out something soon. Right now the spare is o. The roof rack. That's a bit higher than what's in the picture |
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Post by ES_97Sport on Aug 1, 2016 14:47:35 GMT -5
Im not sure if its the same one or not. Ya the tire is too high but I got to figure out something soon. Right now the spare is o. The roof rack. That's a bit higher than what's in the picture Yea, you definitely won't want to have to haul a 100 lb tire/rim on/off the roof! I'd go with a design like this. There's nothing wrong with it that changing the tire placement wouldn't fix. Edward |
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Post by bdmontero on Aug 1, 2016 21:18:06 GMT -5
Here's another picture of the tire carrier its not the same one.  |
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Post by bdmontero on Aug 2, 2016 11:10:06 GMT -5
Spoke with bill from cable Mitsubishi. It is under 1000.00 to have a new factory tire carrier installed including labor and everything needed. I do believe I found a winning comprise. Its factory and I do love the look of these. Plus it can hold a 35" tire correct?
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Post by bdmontero on Aug 2, 2016 13:48:51 GMT -5
Update. Now he's saying some parts are hard to find. Ughhhhhhhhhh. I'm sick of this crap. He's saying the lift gate is a different one than what I have. I know I'd need a new trim license holder and bumper. Is he right. Will have to have one custom made at this point.
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Like 'brush guards' off road, anything that hits that bar is going to cause more damage than its going to prevent.
