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Post by jkdv8 on Jan 26, 2017 20:59:51 GMT -5
Test the maf according to the service manuals. One is for the TPS, one is the air temp (part of the maf) sensor, and the other is the MAF sensor. MAF is the box on the intake tube.
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Post by txczyhorse on Jan 27, 2017 13:31:19 GMT -5
I was told easy way to test the maf sensor is to just disconnect it while motor is running ....if its working right the motor should shut off... Anyone heard about this method? Turned on motor Unplugged maf sensor and the motor kept running with a little hesitation but motor did not shut off ...so im assuming maf sensor is bad? I took off maf sensor and cleaned it Put it bad on ... Still did the same thing hesitates but motor keeps running So i guess its time to buy a maf sensor? Let me know what u guys think
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Post by dirk on Jan 27, 2017 19:21:11 GMT -5
When I installed my Injen intake, I forgot to plug in the MAF sensor. Long story short, I started it up, ran a little rough, but thought it was just the ECU relearning how to run with the added air. So took it for a short ride. Acceleration kinda sucked, and had to press harder on accelerator then normal. Check engine light came on, I was worried I'd have to reinstall stock airfilter/box. Well when I popped the hood voila seen I forgot to connect the connection to the MAF. So I had similar results when my MAF was disconnected as you do when yours is connected. So I'd look at the von ectors, wires etc to it, make sure all in working order. Then if there is a way to measure the MAF function in a FSM. Start there?
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Post by jkdv8 on Jan 27, 2017 22:04:34 GMT -5
I was told easy way to test the maf sensor is to just disconnect it while motor is running ....if its working right the motor should shut off... Anyone heard about this method? Turned on motor Unplugged maf sensor and the motor kept running with a little hesitation but motor did not shut off ...so im assuming maf sensor is bad? I took off maf sensor and cleaned it Put it bad on ... Still did the same thing hesitates but motor keeps running So i guess its time to buy a maf sensor? Let me know what u guys think You could try unplugging it but that's not always a 100% accurate test. Those that have done this only experienced a smoother idle when the bad MAF was disconnected so if yours idled smooth before it's doubtful you'll notice a difference. You should also be very careful when cleaning them and use only MAF cleaner. They are very delicate and the wrong cleaner can leave a residue which collects dirt. Another thing that would be worth looking into is the fuel consumption unit. The symptoms are very similar however I don't recall people having MAF codes with a faulty fuel consumption unit. I would however start with the MAF before you go on a wild goose chase. The manuals can be found here .
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Post by colted on Jan 28, 2017 9:11:56 GMT -5
MAF sensor is quite pricey, i'd look for a salvage/pull-a-part yard....
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Post by txczyhorse on Feb 2, 2017 16:13:13 GMT -5
Bought a new maf sensor and put on and its still doing the same thing wtf!!! So now ive replaced the tps,idle air control valve,and the maf sensor and still doing the same thing When i start vehicle in park Idle will go up and down If i put it in drive it will die out
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Post by jkdv8 on Feb 2, 2017 21:21:05 GMT -5
Did you by any chance test either MAF against spec in the service manual. That would go for the TPS and IAC as well. It's usually good practice to test any component when diagnosing something and especially since these problems arose after shorting the battery since a toasted computer is an unfortunate but very probable cause. Thrown codes dont always, 100% of the time, point to the problem but they can give you a reasonable cause of the problem.
Also, there is a calibration procedure for the TPS that is best done with a MUT ll/lll (Mitsubishi scan tool) but there is a manual method listed in the service manual I believe. Just taking the old off and putting a new one on isn't going to cut it. It has to programmed so to speak to be in unison with the mechanical side of the throttle.
Is it throwing the same codes or any new ones?
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Post by jkdv8 on Feb 5, 2017 14:56:37 GMT -5
Bought a new maf sensor and put on and its still doing the same thing wtf!!! So now ive replaced the tps,idle air control valve,and the maf sensor and still doing the same thing When i start vehicle in park Idle will go up and down If i put it in drive it will die out One thing to consider is that vacuum leaks can cause this as well. I didn't think to mention it because you say the problem arose after the battery ordeal but it may be worth looking into. It could just be coincidence that it happened at the same time.
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Post by MonteroSportHonduras on Feb 6, 2017 8:21:37 GMT -5
Bought a new maf sensor and put on and its still doing the same thing wtf!!! So now ive replaced the tps,idle air control valve,and the maf sensor and still doing the same thing When i start vehicle in park Idle will go up and down If i put it in drive it will die out One thing to consider is that vacuum leaks can cause this as well. I didn't think to mention it because you say the problem arose after the battery ordeal but it may be worth looking into. It could just be coincidence that it happened at the same time. My grandma's Tribute had a similar issue and got a bit better once we replaced a vacuum line that someone blocked and a few other that burned by getting contact with the EGR. someone who serviced her car left them loose... It also had a bad coil. just a couple things to look into before replacing the ECU
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Post by Naeos_Valkarian on Feb 6, 2017 22:08:34 GMT -5
An erratic idle and dying issue as you described can often be traced to a dirty or outright faulty crankshaft position sensor or camshaft position sensor. problem is most people don't think about them and wind up spending mega dollars on everything else. Inspect them for damage or clean them if they are dirty. Also remember to clean and dry the connectors.
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Post by MonteroSportHonduras on Feb 7, 2017 8:28:05 GMT -5
An erratic idle and dying issue as you described can often be traced to a dirty or outright faulty crankshaft position sensor or camshaft position sensor. problem is most people don't think about them and wind up spending mega dollars on everything else. Inspect them for damage or clean them if they are dirty. Also remember to clean and dry the connectors. Could that cause a P0300 code? mine will idle fine, its just once you floor it that the issue comes, like something cuts the fun once reaching 4k rpm or 5k
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Post by Naeos_Valkarian on Feb 7, 2017 17:23:36 GMT -5
An erratic idle and dying issue as you described can often be traced to a dirty or outright faulty crankshaft position sensor or camshaft position sensor. problem is most people don't think about them and wind up spending mega dollars on everything else. Inspect them for damage or clean them if they are dirty. Also remember to clean and dry the connectors. Could that cause a P0300 code? mine will idle fine, its just once you floor it that the issue comes, like something cuts the fun once reaching 4k rpm or 5k Not sure but it's a cheap place to start. Clean them up and see what happens. Usually a faulty crank/cam sensor will cause random dying and not act like a rev limiter.
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