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Post by AKumahMatata on Mar 17, 2017 14:44:22 GMT -5
hiya, i got some new sets of shocks. and i refuse to go to the shop to install these. The last time i went to a shop to install shocks, they wanted 400. NO WAY MAN! anyways, i was looking at the sport manual and it says that the torque spec for the bottom bolt from the shock is torque down to 159 ft-lb? and the upper to 16lb? am i missing something here? my 1/2 craftsman only goes up to 150 ft lb. maybe im reading this manual wrong idk. anyone with more info on this? www.dropbox.com/s/dfgdxvxrzj7qtyy/Torque.jpg?dl=0
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Post by jkdv8 on Mar 18, 2017 14:53:06 GMT -5
Yea I always thought that was a bit excessive. I myself however have swapped them on two different sports and didn't tighten them down that much, only what I could physically manage in the tight confine. My theory is with them being so low that's it to keep them from coming undone in the event they hit something in the road or on the trail.
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Post by AKumahMatata on Mar 24, 2017 22:13:53 GMT -5
Yea I always thought that was a bit excessive. I myself however have swapped them on two different sports and didn't tighten them down that much, only what I could physically manage in the tight confine. My theory is with them being so low that's it to keep them from coming undone in the event they hit something in the road or on the trail. Thanks for the feedback. im new to torque spec and such. i did however bought another torque wrench that goes up to 250 ft lbs. i really thought torque wrenches only went up to 150 ft lbs.(noob me lol) im tired of mechanics doing a crappy job and charging so much for simple things. P.s- based on what you said, "in the tight confine", are the shocks uncomfortable to change? tutorials online make it look easy to do. (on other Suv). i will attempt to change them myself soon.
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Post by Naeos_Valkarian on Mar 25, 2017 5:40:26 GMT -5
The rear shocks are easier to replace than the front ones. (at least in my case they were) The Front shocks may require a bit of force to compress them in order to fit them onto the lower mounting bracket. When you do manage to get the lower half into the mount you will likely need to take a flat head screwdriver and wedge it into where the bolt goes through to raise it up enough to pass the bolt through the opposite side. Make sure to remove the tires as this will make it 100% easier for you to access the shocks.
All in all this is one of the easiest repairs I've done so far. It will yield positive results immediately, IMHO that's what makes this repair so fun considering the small amount of time and effort put into it.
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Post by jkdv8 on Mar 29, 2017 15:26:31 GMT -5
Yea I always thought that was a bit excessive. I myself however have swapped them on two different sports and didn't tighten them down that much, only what I could physically manage in the tight confine. My theory is with them being so low that's it to keep them from coming undone in the event they hit something in the road or on the trail. Thanks for the feedback. im new to torque spec and such. i did however bought another torque wrench that goes up to 250 ft lbs. i really thought torque wrenches only went up to 150 ft lbs.(noob me lol) im tired of mechanics doing a crappy job and charging so much for simple things. P.s- based on what you said, "in the tight confine", are the shocks uncomfortable to change? tutorials online make it look easy to do. (on other Suv). i will attempt to change them myself soon. Yea I had someone quote me $400 and I had the shocks in hand. If you didn't know already be sure to store them at the lowest setting, not 0. Also, the use of adapters and extensions reduces accuracy. Like ninestar stated they are easy. I had some trouble with the top of the rear mount because of the gas tank but other than that it was easy and straight forward. Also don't tighten them down until the truck is back on the ground.
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Post by AKumahMatata on Mar 30, 2017 10:18:37 GMT -5
Thanks for the feedback. im new to torque spec and such. i did however bought another torque wrench that goes up to 250 ft lbs. i really thought torque wrenches only went up to 150 ft lbs.(noob me lol) im tired of mechanics doing a crappy job and charging so much for simple things. P.s- based on what you said, "in the tight confine", are the shocks uncomfortable to change? tutorials online make it look easy to do. (on other Suv). i will attempt to change them myself soon. Yea I had someone quote me $400 and I had the shocks in hand. If you didn't know already be sure to store them at the lowest setting, not 0. Also, the use of adapters and extensions reduces accuracy. Like ninestar stated they are easy. I had some trouble with the top of the rear mount because of the gas tank but other than that it was easy and straight forward. Also don't tighten them down until the truck is back on the ground. yeah that left rear upper bolt is so annoying because of the gas tank. all changed up. saved myself $400 bones woot woot! day and night difference in handling. all my old shocks were shot. non of them went back up when compressed. deader than dead. i appreciate your input. every bit helps
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Post by techsound on Mar 30, 2017 11:32:18 GMT -5
Yeah that's pricey. Pepboys quoted me $700+. I ended up buying OE Spectrum at shockwarehouse for not a lot of $ and had my local shop install them at 20 bucks per shock.
I live in small town Alabama so labor rates usually aren't too hire.
Not bad.
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Post by AKumahMatata on Mar 30, 2017 11:41:48 GMT -5
Yeah that's pricey. Pepboys quoted me $700+. I ended up buying OE Spectrum at shockwarehouse for not a lot of $ and had my local shop install them at 20 bucks per shock. I live in small town Alabama so labor rates usually aren't too hire. Not bad. compared to NYC thats AWESOME!! my bilstein cost me about 320 all 4 (ebay), i think. if i wouldve went with NYC labor costs, it wouldve gone to 700+. sounds correct. best thing is to become a diy kind of person. you save so much is ridiculous. plus you bond more with your vehicle lol
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Post by techsound on Mar 30, 2017 11:44:12 GMT -5
Yeah nothing like a super high estimate to make you rethink doing the job yourself.
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Post by AKumahMatata on Mar 30, 2017 12:26:41 GMT -5
Yeah nothing like a super high estimate to make you rethink doing the job yourself. werd lol
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Post by jkdv8 on Apr 6, 2017 20:19:09 GMT -5
Yeah nothing like a super high estimate to make you rethink doing the job yourself. No doubt. I had the dealer quote me $800 to replace the fuel temperature sensor some time ago. Stated the fuel tank had to be removed. So between this site and the service manual I discovered it is on the float assembly. Part was like $30, held in place by 3 bolts. Took longer disconnecting and reconnecting the battery then it did replacing the part.
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