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Post by dclambertt on Mar 20, 2015 17:25:07 GMT -5
Oh well, I guess I'll find out soon enough. I've become an expert in replacing the dang things.
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Post by dclambertt on Mar 20, 2015 17:28:00 GMT -5
Wonder why they even sell fiber manifold gaskets then. Which direction are the torque specs adjusted?
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Post by jkdv8 on Mar 20, 2015 17:35:42 GMT -5
Not quite sure I understand your question.
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Post by dclambertt on Mar 20, 2015 17:39:26 GMT -5
jkdv8: No. I can't remember why, but you're not supposed to use the thick fiber gaskets on cast exhaust manifolds between the block and manifold. I do know that using them will completely change the torque spec.
Edward
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Post by jkdv8 on Mar 20, 2015 17:51:29 GMT -5
Hehe. I was referring to the torque direction bit.
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Post by ES_97Sport on Mar 20, 2015 17:51:36 GMT -5
Wonder why they even sell fiber manifold gaskets then. Which direction are the torque specs adjusted? I've never seen any, but I've never looked either. The ones I HAVE seen are not for cast manifolds, they're for headers. A bit higher, I believe. If you torque a header with a fiber gasket down to the same specs as the cast manifold and metal sheet gasket it'll leak like a sieve and all the bolts will rattle out. At least that's been my experience. The fiber ones are supposed to be re-torqued but I was always told not to re-torque the metal ones. The only way to get header gaskets to seal consistently is to re-torque them. You have to get the gasket to compress before you get an accurate reading. If you just torque it down, it compresses and everything loosens up when you start driving it. So, torque it down, loosen the bolts back up and then re-torque them back down. With the metal sheet gaskets we torque them down and move on with our lives. Some of my felpro, mr gasket, and others come with torque specs on the box or on a little slip of paper. My diff gaskets did and the last set of head gaskets did, too, if I remember correctly. Edward
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Post by dclambertt on Mar 20, 2015 17:58:13 GMT -5
Crap. I do have the heat shield installed on the manifold btw.
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Post by ES_97Sport on Mar 20, 2015 18:18:21 GMT -5
Crap. I do have the heat shield installed on the manifold btw. DANG. I think my passenger side one is missing. Just noticed yesterday. Forgot there WAS a heat shield on that side. :rolleyes: Edward
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Post by dclambertt on Mar 20, 2015 18:21:43 GMT -5
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Post by laura on May 14, 2015 20:15:17 GMT -5
My 2001 Mitzy just failed emissions in VA due to manifold exhaust leak also have O2 sensor code and solenoid switch code *sigh* Is it time to retire Mitzy or is fixing her still worth what repair shop will prob charge. She only has 130k mi on her. Oh yeah our 4wd ball joint is broke so we also don't go I to 4wd ? Any thoughts on if it's worth fixing? I really do love my Mitzy but dont need a money pit Thanks Laura
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Post by ES_97Sport on May 15, 2015 15:04:31 GMT -5
My 2001 Mitzy just failed emissions in VA due to manifold exhaust leak also have O2 sensor code and solenoid switch code *sigh* Is it time to retire Mitzy or is fixing her still worth what repair shop will prob charge. She only has 130k mi on her. Oh yeah our 4wd ball joint is broke so we also don't go I to 4wd ? Any thoughts on if it's worth fixing? I really do love my Mitzy but dont need a money pit Thanks Laura You can spend a thousand or two to fix a good vehicle or put yourself in debt for $40,000. for the next five-seven years. My take is that a few thousand to maintain a vehicle I already have is better than spending a boat load of cash for the next half-three quarters of a decade. Do you have a cracked manifold and that's what is causing the leak? If its just a leaking gasket, then this should have been in its own post. A replacement manifold can be purchased at pretty any salvage yard for less than $50. I think I paid $15 a piece for two. O2 sensors are WEAR ITEMS, just like tires. They don't last forever. It would be helpful if you posted the OBD code. I do not know anyone that's broken a ball joint on either the Montero or Montero Sport and we 'wheel ours. If you had to replace a ball joint four times in 130K, then you're doing something that's causing this. The Montero and Montero Sport are two of the toughest vehicles sold in the US. I have three Sports - one of which is approaching 600,000 miles and I've driven a dozen more. 130K is nothing unless someone has beat the crap out of it - in that case its not the vehicles fault. If you do the regular maintenance Montero's and Montero Sport's will last for decades - EVEN if they're taken off road. Ball joints, u-joints, sensors - stick with OEM Mitsubishi parts. Aftermarket stuff is coming from China and the quality is horrible. Edward
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Post by laura on May 15, 2015 18:43:47 GMT -5
Hi Edward- thanks for the reply! My bad I haven't had to replace the ball joint 4 times. It's the alternator I am replacing every year. I have an oil leak and everything I've was says that will short out the alt but my bf said the oil is more on the starter.
I just wasn't sure if getting all that fixed was just the start of something bad I too think like you it's cheaper for a few thousand vs a 40k car making car payments.
I don't have the codes as this was 5 years ago I was told by the dealer what the diagnostics was saying. I have the infamous check engine light on, 4wd light on and antilock light on. The dealer said issues were EGR O2 sensors Solenoid switch/valve
I did not know O2 sensors were normal wear items like tires so that makes me feel better.
My 4wd is just stuck you can't move the gear shift. You did tell me via this forum about the plastic ball that may be broken that's what I called the ball joint (my own terminology as I could remember what it's called). But this won't affect passing the emmissions just would like to take her off-road again
I just moved and to a state that performs emissions. It's a cracked manifold sure. It's loud and the sound sort of goes away once she warms up. So if you have had Sports that have 600k mi then I'm all for fixin her as I really do love Mitzy!!
I will wait for the repair shop to do their diagnostic then deep dive her to tell me what they think and price and will call junkyards for manifolds.
My other question out of curiosity is why do repair shops use refurb parts and not OEM
Thanks again for the info Laura
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Post by lacity626 on May 17, 2015 10:18:11 GMT -5
I am a victim of the rt side cracked exhaust man. Here's the kicker, I supported my family for 20yrs working professionally in a muffler shop before my current job, repairing refuse vehicles for the city of L.A. I believe that thermal shock is the culprit if all the other factors are not an issue. Someone mentioned cardboard gaskets? Throw them away or play ring toss with them unless you have headers. Clean flat surfaces and oem gaskets only please. My feeling on the manifold crack, maybe the heat shield should have vents to dissipate the heat at a better pace, safely of course, not to damage anything around it. Cast iron can be welded with the correct rod and you need a welders oven. If you're not dead on balls (technical term) with the flanges, welding it just won't work.
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Post by laura on May 18, 2015 5:01:21 GMT -5
Not sure if I'm getting my vernage right buty manifold crack is by the catalyst figuring ~2k to fix Is the only option welding? *sigh* loyal to my Mitzy I want no other maybe I should just get a new used one
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Post by lacity626 on May 18, 2015 8:11:24 GMT -5
If there's nothing wrong with the cats, just buy a used manifold online. Don't give up on Mitzy and never throw money at the problem.
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