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Post by ES_97Sport on Jul 1, 2015 11:55:14 GMT -5
Nope. Just make sure its the full synthetic molly high-pressure grease. Edward Is that good stuff for grease fittings as well? I use it on almost everything exposed to moisture. Even works great on the rear tire carrier hinges. U-joints, steering components, bearings especially. I use it on poly sway bar bushings on my 'Bird. Only stuff that doesn't wash out the first time it goes through the car wash. I used to use it on the rubber sway bar bushings before I no longer had sway bars. Works great on the radius arm bushings on my big Sport. When I was using the 2022 and 2023 tie-rod ends (1/2 ton) I noticed that they lasted a LOT longer if I used the Valvoline stuff rather than the standard grease. You still have to remember to grease everything everything AT LEAST once a year for a street vehicle. If you're putting on 30-40K a year like I do, then once every six months. If you're wheeling you should be greasing everything once a month - every trip if exposed to deep water crossings. BUT, at least you won't have to worry about shooting a wheel bearing before you get home if you go through water and suck up a hub full. The only place I never use this stuff is on the door hinges or where its possible to brush up against it with something (like clothing). This stuff stains horribly. Most of the time its impossible to wash out of any type of cloth. Which is why I still use white lithium on the door locks and hinges. Edward
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Post by dclambertt on Jul 1, 2015 17:56:53 GMT -5
Thx Ed, I was looking for something good to use on the sway bushings. Who's the manufacturer?
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Post by ES_97Sport on Jul 2, 2015 14:47:36 GMT -5
Thx Ed, I was looking for something good to use on the sway bushings. Who's the manufacturer? Valvoline SynPower™ Synthetic GreaseAdvance Auto Parts - tubI get it at Napa, but sometimes Walmart has it. I've run this stuff for years. The old 60s/70s/80s GM/Ford/AMC hubs don't seal very well - or consistently. One water crossing of any length above the hubs and I've almost always got a hub(s) full of a pint of water. Its a little difficult to stop, drain, clean and repack the hubs EVERY TIME I go through a water crossing when we're in Moab for a week or two. With this stuff I don't have to worry as much about trashing the bearings and races before I can service the hubs. I've run the hubs for two months full of water with this grease without damaging anything. Bearings and races looked like brand new and ran fine for another 5-6 years before I had to replace the passenger side finally. I don't recommend this, but its good to know that in an emergency you have one less thing to worry about for a bit. Edward
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Post by dclambertt on Jul 2, 2015 17:15:52 GMT -5
Much appreciated!
Dan
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Post by colted on Jul 2, 2015 18:30:15 GMT -5
Mine's still a teen then for around 180k....
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Post by jkdv8 on Jul 2, 2015 20:12:55 GMT -5
Thx Ed, I was looking for something good to use on the sway bushings. Who's the manufacturer? Valvoline SynPower™ Synthetic GreaseAdvance Auto Parts - tubI get it at Napa, but sometimes Walmart has it. I've run this stuff for years. The old 60s/70s/80s GM/Ford/AMC hubs don't seal very well - or consistently. One water crossing of any length above the hubs and I've almost always got a hub(s) full of a pint of water. Its a little difficult to stop, drain, clean and repack the hubs EVERY TIME I go through a water crossing when we're in Moab for a week or two. With this stuff I don't have to worry as much about trashing the bearings and races before I can service the hubs. I've run the hubs for two months full of water with this grease without damaging anything. Bearings and races looked like brand new and ran fine for another 5-6 years before I had to replace the passenger side finally. I don't recommend this, but its good to know that in an emergency you have one less thing to worry about for a bit. Edward So is the dura blend a 50/50 mix of syn and castor. I'm guessing so.
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Post by ES_97Sport on Jul 3, 2015 15:41:45 GMT -5
... So is the dura blend a 50/50 mix of syn and castor. I'm guessing so. Anything that says 'blend' is a blend of standard and synthetic. That stuff is useless - both the blend oils as well as the gear lube and grease. EITHER use the regular stuff or use full synthetic. The only reason blends exist is because they're cheaper than full but still sound like they're better than regular. The oil blends (engine, gear) are not as problematic. The grease is a different story. Almost the entire point of using this stuff is because it doesn't break down or doesn't break down as easily - pressure, water, or whatever. Steering components, hubs, wheel bearings, etc. are exposed to water and crud 24/7. There isn't a perfect seal between any of the components and the elements - getting water in an engine, differential, or transmission is pretty difficult on a maintained vehicle, but water in a tie rod, idler arm or hub is a common occurrence. Anyone that drives in a state that gets ft+ snow falls has this happen. Part of the point of greasing everything once is year is to flush out all the crud and water that gets into things like joints, not just to replace what grease dries up and/or leaks/washes out. I never took pictures and I've wished I had. I lost the passenger side wheel bearings I was talking about in a previous post because the shop that repacked my hubs used standard HP grease. Froze the bearing to the race and spun the race in the hub. Didn't realize that I'd sucked a hub full of water until it was too late. What ran out when it was disassembled was nothing but a white-ish soup. The inside of the hub looked like it was washed out with parts cleaner - there was absolutely NOTHING left, it just all broke down in the water. The Valvoline on the other hand didn't do anything. When I took the hub apart about a pint of water rushed out, but it was just clear water. No discoloration at all. It didn't smell very good, but it didn't look any different than city tap water. I wiped everything down, repacked the bearings, slapped a new seal in and put it all back together. It took about 3 weeks for the bearing and race to seize with regular grease. I ran for two months without issues with the full synthetic HP molly stuff. Gives you kind of an idea of the difference between the two. BTW, the VERY LAST thing you want to have happen with your vehicle is to have a front wheel seize while you're doing 65 MPH down the highway in the rain. Edward
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Post by jkdv8 on Jul 3, 2015 20:15:13 GMT -5
... So is the dura blend a 50/50 mix of syn and castor. I'm guessing so. Anything that says 'blend' is a blend of standard and synthetic. That stuff is useless - both the blend oils as well as the gear lube and grease. EITHER use the regular stuff or use full synthetic. The only reason blends exist is because they're cheaper than full but still sound like they're better than regular. The oil blends (engine, gear) are not as problematic. The grease is a different story. Almost the entire point of using this stuff is because it doesn't break down or doesn't break down as easily - pressure, water, or whatever. Steering components, hubs, wheel bearings, etc. are exposed to water and crud 24/7. There isn't a perfect seal between any of the components and the elements - getting water in an engine, differential, or transmission is pretty difficult on a maintained vehicle, but water in a tie rod, idler arm or hub is a common occurrence. Anyone that drives in a state that gets ft+ snow falls has this happen. Part of the point of greasing everything once is year is to flush out all the crud and water that gets into things like joints, not just to replace what grease dries up and/or leaks/washes out. I never took pictures and I've wished I had. I lost the passenger side wheel bearings I was talking about in a previous post because the shop that repacked my hubs used standard HP grease. Froze the bearing to the race and spun the race in the hub. Didn't realize that I'd sucked a hub full of water until it was too late. What ran out when it was disassembled was nothing but a white-ish soup. The inside of the hub looked like it was washed out with parts cleaner - there was absolutely NOTHING left, it just all broke down in the water. The Valvoline on the other hand didn't do anything. When I took the hub apart about a pint of water rushed out, but it was just clear water. No discoloration at all. It didn't smell very good, but it didn't look any different than city tap water. I wiped everything down, repacked the bearings, slapped a new seal in and put it all back together. It took about 3 weeks for the bearing and race to seize with regular grease. I ran for two months without issues with the full synthetic HP molly stuff. Gives you kind of an idea of the difference between the two. BTW, the VERY LAST thing you want to have happen with your vehicle is to have a front wheel seize while you're doing 65 MPH down the highway in the rain. Edward Ok that's what I was thinking. Yea a seized wheel doesn't sound like much fun. Is it possible to use that rtv sealant on the hub cover. Possibly help keep water out or would it just seal water in. It can't get in through cv joint boot I wouldn't think. I myself haven't had to do the front brakes as of yet but will probably have to soon.
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Post by ES_97Sport on Jul 6, 2015 14:00:13 GMT -5
... Ok that's what I was thinking. Yea a seized wheel doesn't sound like much fun. Is it possible to use that rtv sealant on the hub cover. Possibly help keep water out or would it just seal water in. It can't get in through cv joint boot I wouldn't think. I myself haven't had to do the front brakes as of yet but will probably have to soon. 'doesn't sound like much fun' is an understatement. Destroyed an almost impossible to get part here in CO. I run early '70s J10 hubs - not easy to replace. Thankfully, it didn't take the spindle with it. Had to replace everything except the brakes and Warn. That was not a good day. It is. I use the copper RTV on my Warn manual locking hubs. They have a rubber O ring, but they don't seal all that well. Just a very fine bead around the hub where the lip butts up. That doesn't do much good, though, with the Mitsu Superwinch locking hubs. The leakage is between the dial and the hub and there's nothing you can do there. The stock assembly - no manual locking hubs, just the plate - should have a fine layer of grey RTV before the plate is bolted back on. Per the FSMs. There's not much chance of leakage there. The biggest issues I have with my Ford/GM/J10 assembly is water coming in from the backside - the axle half shaft seal and the bearing seal. The bearing seal is the lesser of the two issues. The half shaft seal isn't a very good design - that design is ancient so I guess you can't expect too much - and can allow a LOT of water in. The Mitsu design is much better - although not a hell of a lot newer. Without manual locking hubs, those two areas are still the two primary points of possible leakage. There really isn't anything that can be done there to absolutely prevent water from getting into the hubs. The entire assembly gets really hot and the minute you dump it into cold water and the air inside shrinks, it creates a vacuum internally and the water is sucked past the seals into the hub assembly. My 1/2 ton hub assemblies are a good bit bigger inside (larger internal volume). They'll fill with almost a pint of water. But the Mitsu hubs still will do the same thing. I've pulled my Mitsu hubs apart several times and had water inside - and that with the stock assemblies. No manual locking hubs. Just how it is. Anyone that boats knows how this goes. I couldn't begin to guess how many tubs of the blue trailer silicon grease my dad's gone through re-greasing the trailer hubs after every couple trips. BTW, DO NOT use this for vehicles!!! While water resistant, it doesn't lubricate as well nor stand up to the heat and pressure as well as the Valvoline stuff. My dad got the wild hair to use this stuff on his Ford and went though two sets of wheel bearings before he figured out that was a bad idea. With the Superwinch hubs there is no way to keep water out of the locking hub assembly. They just don't seal around the dial. And, you can't pack the manual hub piece with grease or it won't work. Especially when the ambient temperature drops. I tried a lot of things there - none of which really worked all that well. Spraying the inside of the hub, spring and gear with silicon helped to keep the rust down but mainly you just have to disassemble everything on a regular basis, clean and grease. If you're on a trip and have to do a water crossing that submerges the hubs for more than seconds I strongly suggest at the end of the day pulling the Allen head screws, wiping/draining out any moisture and then putting them back on. Once there's water in there, there's nothing to keep it from getting inside to the bearings eventually. If you're on a day trip, do it when you get home. For anyone that goes to Moab or anywhere else like that where the 'water' is 80% silica, the absolute best HP water resistant lubricant you can use is critical. The water in the streams of CO is pretty clean unless someone has stirred it up, but the water in Moab is filled with the same stuff they make sanding pads and cutting disks out of. That stuff will trash bearing surfaces no different than if you took a grinder to them. The synthetic stuff coats the surfaces and if you pack them well, keeps the crud away from and out of the bearings. If you get anything into a CV, you're screwed. They're supposed to be water tight and don't suffer from the vacuum problem because the boot can collapse under vacuum. But, if there's a crack or pin hole in the boot .... Always check your CV boots for any leakage, cracks or anything on a regular basis. Those things are expensive and you DO NOT want to loose one on the trail. Almost lost my big Sport over a 2K ft drop because a CV came apart at the top of Antero. Edward
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Post by jkdv8 on Jul 8, 2015 15:16:17 GMT -5
... Ok that's what I was thinking. Yea a seized wheel doesn't sound like much fun. Is it possible to use that rtv sealant on the hub cover. Possibly help keep water out or would it just seal water in. It can't get in through cv joint boot I wouldn't think. I myself haven't had to do the front brakes as of yet but will probably have to soon. 'doesn't sound like much fun' is an understatement. Destroyed an almost impossible to get part here in CO. I run early '70s J10 hubs - not easy to replace. Thankfully, it didn't take the spindle with it. Had to replace everything except the brakes and Warn. That was not a good day. It is. I use the copper RTV on my Warn manual locking hubs. They have a rubber O ring, but they don't seal all that well. Just a very fine bead around the hub where the lip butts up. That doesn't do much good, though, with the Mitsu Superwinch locking hubs. The leakage is between the dial and the hub and there's nothing you can do there. The stock assembly - no manual locking hubs, just the plate - should have a fine layer of grey RTV before the plate is bolted back on. Per the FSMs. There's not much chance of leakage there. The biggest issues I have with my Ford/GM/J10 assembly is water coming in from the backside - the axle half shaft seal and the bearing seal. The bearing seal is the lesser of the two issues. The half shaft seal isn't a very good design - that design is ancient so I guess you can't expect too much - and can allow a LOT of water in. The Mitsu design is much better - although not a hell of a lot newer. Without manual locking hubs, those two areas are still the two primary points of possible leakage. Edward Good to know. Thanks again Edward.
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Post by chrisho on Nov 16, 2015 22:52:27 GMT -5
242k Miles...2000 3.0
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Post by pinstryper on Nov 17, 2015 9:16:06 GMT -5
1997 203k
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Post by ES_97Sport on Nov 17, 2015 13:53:05 GMT -5
I just checked my little '97 yesterday when I picked it up from the dealership. '97 LS M/T 196K Big Sport is pushing 600K. I should top that by the end of the year. Edward
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Post by redraif on Nov 17, 2015 14:51:42 GMT -5
My little one was at 245K last time I checked...
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Post by mrgalantguy on Nov 17, 2015 15:55:28 GMT -5
Mine just hit the 160k mark recently
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