Poorboy-Torsion lift mods..

[AirForceEagle1]

I'm new to the site, also to my 98 M. Sport LS. Besides the oil leak on my starter, I love it to death. I love the site, and the infinite wealth of knowledge here. I want to know pretty much how to crank the torsion bars from a lame-mans perspective. Pics are optional but if ya got 'em great! I've heard alot about this, but I am new to the whole IFS(independent front susp.) thing, I'm a solid axle veteran(74 1/2 ton Chev. Silver. 4wd). After I stopped crying about selling my fullsize , I bought my M.S. and I've been all over the ugly island of guam, where I am stationed in the US Air Force. So, how do you crank the torsion bars, and how far can they go before it starts affecting other things?(alignment,camber, CV joints, bumpstops are my main concerns)After careful debate, I also decided to go with a shackle lift for now, and maybe an axle flip mod after I get to germany. Also, on the 5.5inch shackle lift that was discussed, I need to know if you encountered a shortness of the driveshaft.... I'd like to raise the rear higher than the front, for late nights at the local lookout point and also for towing trailers without bottoming out on small bumps(yes, I pull/handle that much weight). Any advice on lifting the front and rear for heavy duty applications are welcomed. I'm currently developing a custom ram-air design that utilizes the air duct in the bumper as intake, and I will write more about that. Pics will come in mid-july. Thanks for the site and I'll write more later I'm sure!

[cwic]

It may be eaiser to make an air dam next to ur radiator but behind the bumper and then use the hole that runs through ur core support to run a pice of pipe through to get some cold air into the intake area. I have pics if u want to know more but it may not work for u since I have a 2001.
Clay

[AirForceEagle1]

I just finished installing it, however my wife in california has my digital camera so its gonna be july before any pics evolve. I've tested it as far as power goes, and I do notice some difference in the low rpm HP. The transmission doesn't have to downshift on the same hills it did, and my guess is because of the cold air. I've only driven fifteen miles, so the fuel level hasn't changed at all yet. I don't expect a significant change in level until about 45 miles. All I did was buy three 45 degree ABS pipe fittings, along with one 90 degree, some ABS glue and a reducer that went from 4" to 2", which is the size pipe that fit inside my OEM hole. The reducer is meant to channel the airflow into the hole, creating a higher rate of flow(not necessarily P.S.I.). I've also noticed that idling while pointed into a 10mph wind lowers the engine temp significantly after five minutes(which happened without me knowing. I was in the shop while checking for leaks in the piping. I found this quite amazing for just idling). Also, I bought a coolant tester. My [glow=red,2,300]boiling point is +300 (F) degrees[/glow] and the [glow=blue,2,300]freezing point is -52 (F) degrees.[/glow].
So for those that live in temps above 60(F) degrees, it would be one of the best investments ever made. Keep on flyin...

[cwic]

thats kinda what I did but I used the pipe from the stock air box and ran it through the core support then made a box out of sheet metal, cut a hole in the top corner of it and stuck the pipe through it 2.
Clay

[AirForceEagle1]

I wish I could have done that, but I don't have anyway of cutting through that wall to get to the front, but good idea if you have the resources..