Protection: belly, tank and differential
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Post by bigswede on May 19, 2004 7:30:32 GMT -5
Hi !
I always seems to get close to the limit of my sport (and other things as well), which make me think about more modifications that would be nice.
After trying out my new 265/75-16 MTR's which where a big improvment over my stock Dueler's, I started to think about what if that stone or rock would go a little to far up under my sport. Hitting hopefully one of those sissy plates.
If I must go over a stone which side of the sport would be the least sensitive side ? Tank and transmission on the left and exhaust on the right... I would pick right.
So I've visited skidplates98 site where he describes the front skidplate he installed, which is interesting. Any one done this with a -02 sport.
Q1: So to the main issue. Has anyone though of how a belly plate or tank plate would look like and how to mount it to the frame ? Taking a quick look under my car it does not seem that easy.
Q2: Anyone seen any rear diff protection plate ?
Q3: How firm are the mount points for the stock side bars ? Could you make more solid ones and mount it in the same way ?
/matt
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Post by skidplate98 on May 19, 2004 16:27:50 GMT -5
Q2: Anyone seen any rear diff protection plate ?
Yes.  Just not on a sport.  Anything is possible with enough money and time and a good fab/custom shop.  Steve Hi ! Q1: So to the main issue. Has anyone though of how a belly plate or tank plate would look like and how to mount it to the frame ? Taking a quick look under my car it does not seem that easy. Q2: Anyone seen any rear diff protection plate ? Q3: How firm are the mount points for the stock side bars ? Could you make more solid ones and mount it in the same way ? /matt
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Post by bigswede on May 20, 2004 14:16:39 GMT -5
Wow, looks solid as (for) a rock.  Must be heavy, I was thinking aluminium... The colour/paint doens not seem to be prepared for action  I wonder how it would look on my little mule "pepe" ?  |
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Post by AirForceEagle1 on May 22, 2004 6:00:35 GMT -5
To those who want to put in skidplates and things of the such.. I have no problem with it personally, and If I had the money, I would do it also. I used to work at a Fab shop, and when you see an article such as this, you tend to want to help people out some.. First, mounting a skidplate anywhere to protect whatever honestly is the cheapest way around it. As expensive as some items are to custom Fab, getting it Up and out of the way is the right way to do it. If you are honestly worried about puncturing your gas tank, exhaust or riding your axle on big kahuna trail rocks , maybe you're going places you shouldn't be. As much as I want to help those with custom fab options, you guys really need to ivnest in a lift of some sort first. Look for my new thread on more to this topic. Back to skid-plating. If you have a company make a skid for your custom application, make sure they are mounting it up and out of the way. For example, there was a picture earlier that showed a differential skid. The only problem with that is look at all the seams that could bust open easily.. Welds aren't invincible. Try to eliminate catching a weld on something...Instead of putting seams there, have the fab. curve the metal on the very bottom(where it is most likely going to come into contact with a nasty hangup) and put the welds higher up. This will reinforce the skidplate even more than having seams at the bottom will. Also, and this has been done before at my shop, so don't laugh, but make sure your skid is removeable by bolts. One of the new guys welded the skid to the axle, which was stronger than mounting it. However, in order to change the oil on most axles, the drain plug(or access plug) is on the bottom, or near the bottom of the pumpkin. So, he came back to us so we could cut it off and mount it with bolts. There are some axles, that do not have a "drain" plug, its only an access plug at middle or top of the axle. If this is your case, and you don't expect to change anything with the pumpkin for a while, welding would be much stronger than putting mounts, and having bolts. Also, remember that you make sure your skidplate will stand up to what you are going to put it through. Take a jack(floor or otherwise) and jack up the rear of your vehicle to where the tires are an inch above the ground. Doing this will make sure that your skid will hold the weight of your vehicle when you high-center, but also will make sure that your skid will not bend around the rock, making it nearly impossible to pull it off(this situation would call for a good high-lift jack). Anyways, theres my thoughts on it..anyone else?  |
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Post by bigswede on May 24, 2004 14:01:47 GMT -5
Good input Of course will I still be careful with my little -02 (almost brand new) mule. Trying to avoid stones,roots. But I've noticed that going in muddy tracks made by cars with bigger tires or tracks used alot. It would be good for my nervs, knowing that its some protection from mud,small stones. I guess I will go for an OME 2" lift, but keeping my 265/75-16 tires. Since I use the car for other stuff than trails, and sometimes pack my X1 roofbox, I dont want to get to high or loose to much grear ratio. I will be my own custom shop, trying to use aluminium. I will try first to replace the existing ones with 6-7mm think plates. If that goes well, I will try to add some more plates. Last I will consider the rear diff. I'm novice in working with aluminium, so I hope I at least I will learn something. It will be my summer project... Anyone out there with aluminium knowledge ? I want to know everything. /matt |
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Post by cwic on May 24, 2004 20:51:34 GMT -5
try hitting up skidplate, I belive he has a custom alluminum plate on the front of his.
Clay
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Post by skidplate98 on May 25, 2004 11:22:57 GMT -5
OK, I don't know everything about aluminum. But here is what I do know. I'm using 1/4" thick 6061-T6 for my skidplate. I would recommend using 6061-T6 or 6061-T651. The 6061-T651 is slightly harder and stiffer the -T6. The -T6 or -T651 is part of the heat treatment. The alloy of aluminum is 6061. I do believe that 6061-T6 is weldable. The difference between welding steal and welding aluminum is that when you weld aluminum the weld is the weakest part. Steve Good input Of course will I still be careful with my little -02 (almost brand new) mule. Trying to avoid stones,roots. But I've noticed that going in muddy tracks made by cars with bigger tires or tracks used alot. It would be good for my nervs, knowing that its some protection from mud,small stones. I guess I will go for an OME 2" lift, but keeping my 265/75-16 tires. Since I use the car for other stuff than trails, and sometimes pack my X1 roofbox, I dont want to get to high or loose to much grear ratio. I will be my own custom shop, trying to use aluminium. I will try first to replace the existing ones with 6-7mm think plates. If that goes well, I will try to add some more plates. Last I will consider the rear diff. I'm novice in working with aluminium, so I hope I at least I will learn something. It will be my summer project... Anyone out there with aluminium knowledge ? I want to know everything. /matt |
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Post by AirForceEagle1 on May 25, 2004 15:58:43 GMT -5
well put skid...
I don't know alot about aluminum, I'm a titanium alloy fan, but aluminum can be welded. Yes, the weld is the weakest part, so try to limit going crazy on the corners or edges with it, it wil only weaken the strength. Aluminum is characterized by Light,(usually fairly thin, but can be plated or hardened as larger, thicker plates..Also, welding steel can be done with a standard welder and some 1300 rod fairly cheap. Going aluminum almost doubles(close to triple here in guam..ugh) the price of welding it(you are going to be charged more.) here, they measure the distance of the weld, plus materials, plus man-power or shop time. Welding Aluminum takes a special setup because of this...it melts at a much higher temperature, and if you weld close to steel, you will find that the steel is nearly to its melting point, just by coming close to it..Thats how hot aluminum gets, please, be very careful!! Otherwise, Aluminum, or an aluminum alloy has to be the best type of four wheeling protection(assuming you aren't welding on the trail..ugh).. Good welding!
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